2.0 HDI c5 110bhp Service at 112,500

[HDI Dave]

The cambelt essentially runs over a toothed wheel bolted to the end of the crankshaft and then to a similar toothed wheel on the camshaft and keeps the two synchronised. This synchronisation is critical and any deviation can be a disaster for the engine, which is why it needs changing before it fails.
It also runs the water pump for the cooling system.
It is recommended that the water pump be changed at the same time as the belt as they have a reputation for failing soon after the belt is done and sometimes take the new belt with them, the engine too in the worst cases.
The tensioners are often worn or distorted and need replacing too.
It is an additional expense but nowhere near as painful as having to do it all again when a minor part fails.

I kind of went overboard and asked for the lot to be done along with new auxiliary belt and tensioners. As it happened the belt had been done at 100,000 miles but there was no way I could have been sure and the tensioner was failing. Pleased I did as although it was a fair few quid it is peanuts compared to the cost of a new/reconditioned engine + fitting.

Boris, the cam belt is also called the timing belt. The above posters' explanation seems spot on and is an excellent preventative way of replacing other components while the cam/timing belt is off.
Maybe someone's put a belt on yours without replacing much else, meaning in effect, your belt will have to come off again to replace the worn parts. Shame really as you're having to pay twice for the said belt.

[boristhespie]

Thanks, the people who changed the belt previously are the same people who have the car now.

Should I be asking questions? I assume that it would be too much to expect them to check things while down there. Would the pulleys being knackered not have shown up previously?

I pick it up in 2 hours?

1hr now

[myglaren]

Thanks, the people who changed the belt previously are the same people who have the car now.

Should I be asking questions?

Yes - ask if the water pump and the timing belt tensioner was changed at the same time as the belt.
It should have been detailed on the receipt you should have had for the job.
A lot more work involved and more expensive components.

I assume that it would be too much to expect them to check things while down there. Would the pulleys being knackered not have shown up previously?

Hard to say if the pulley was showing signs of distress at the time, you may have to give them the benefit of the doubt on that one.

The pulleys are expensive, dual mass components but £250 is a bit on the high side.

My daughter just had to have her car recovered and a new clutch fitted (SAAB 900 2.3) and it wasn't much more than that for the whole job.

You aren't having much luck with that car are you ?

[boristhespie]

So here we go....PArt 1 of 2

LABOUR

INVERSTIGATES REPORTED NOISE FROM ENGINE AREA-
INSPECTED ENGINE AREA AND IDENTIFIED EXCESSIVE MOVEMENT IN BOTTOM CRANKSHAFT (NOT CAMBELT?) PULLEY & WEAR EVIDENT ON ALTERNATOR BELT DUE TO FAULT.
STRIPPED DOWN AS NECESSARY AND FITTED NEW BOTTOM PULLEY AND BELT. REBUILT AND ROADTESTED.

TECHNICIANS REPORT:

ACCELERATOR CABLE ADJUSTED FOR LACK OF POWER
KNOCKINGNOISE HEARD ON ROAD TEST -FRONT ANTIROLL BAR HITTING AGAINST SUBFRAME AT N/S/F )??? -CARRIED OUT SMALL ADJUSTEMNT TO ELIMINATE, IF NOISE RETURNS WOULD NEED ANTI-ROLLBAR BUSHES REPOSITIONED.

TECHNICIAN BC 93.30

PARTS AND MATERIALS

515V6 DOUBLE PULLEY 89.65
575OYG DRIVE BELT 19.45
6981L5 HOSE CLIP 1.17


TOTAL GOODS 203.57

VAT 30.50

TOTAL 234.10




Need to take car out to test acceleration.

Re banging which is still there, the bang comes from the rear passengerside. Bear in mind this is the same garages that had the car who changed the antirollbar once, then when it was back a second time, couldn't find the source of the noise and then on the third occassion said it was the suspension suport strut (which Montrose dealer said it was not- I paid them to check to make sure).

Now this dealers is saying it is the anti-rollbar again.

You can see that for a novice and for someone who does not know cars that this is so confusing and the idea of mecahnics changing things on the OFFCHANCE and hunch that it might solve it, is not appealling when it costs so much.

I would hev gotten them to check the other things mentioned had I got the post before I put it in. Just the way the cookie crumbles.

[boristhespie]

I asked about the service. it is only for the changing of all the filters including pollen filter etc and Montrose said oil too. So the £350 is well steep.

So engine, here I come.

Yes we have bad luck with cars, the French trip two years ago was not nice but our previous Laguna lost a timing belt and the cylinders needed to be sent away which cost £1500 and then a couple of months later the turbo went which was again £1500.

So no, luck, us and cars don't go together. I still need to get the thing MOT'd, Services and the brakes changed I think.

It failed its MOT the last two years due to emmissions so lots of cleaner needed this time.

That reminds me will check the injectors tonight for the smell.

[myglaren]

You can see that for a novice and for someone who does not know cars that this is so confusing and the idea of mecahnics changing things on the OFFCHANCE and hunch that it might solve it, is not appealling when it costs so much.

It happens far too frequently.

As you can see, it is well worth doing at least some of your own servicing and maintenance, especially with robbers like that to contend with.

Whenever you need it there will be plenty of help to be found here. Just start out with simple things and work up to the more advanced stuff as you acquire the knowledge, skills and tools to do it.

[boristhespie]

So update on car.

It did feel a little better. Guess the antirollbar needed tightening however the banging is still there at the rear left and despite wondering how they could misss this, as the car sounds like it is going to collapse, I can only assume that it is the support strutts bearnings.

As for power, well when the car struggles even in 2nd going up The Cairnie Mounth, while a Vauzhall Corsa overtakes then you know there is a problem.

All tighting the accelarator has done is to make it feel spongy. Mind, this was one of the things I wanted the garage to look at. It is clear here they think "probably that" and then tweek and leave. No real investigation seems to take place. So no monre trips to Dryburgh Industrial Estate in Dundee for me, EVER.

I still have the car trying to catch up with the accelerator over a long time rather than the instant power when wanted.

Can you tell me, How do I find out the parts numbers for filters (It is a C5 HDI 110BHP LX model I think).

Also when changing the fuel filter, which may be a possible reason for power problem, are there pressure issues or is it simply a case of engine off and remove? What about leakage when removing etc?

[myglaren]

There are two different diesel filters fitted. If you are going to remove the housing and replace it it is simply a matter of disconnecting the inlet and outlet pipes and the support mounting. I would do this even if you are only replacing the filter element so you can inspect it better and give it a really thorough clean before replacing. You will need to identify which type it is if only replacing the element.

Give it a few minutes after the engine is switched off but it is better done with the engine cold, less chance of burning yourself.

Put some rags underneath to mop up any spillage but that should be minimal.

Someone leap in here and correct me if I'm wrong but there should be no pressure to speak of at the filter after a few minutes.

You can get part numbers and prices from EuroCarParts who have a mail order service if there isn't one near you.

GSF have a very similar website and service - there is also a catalogue that you can download or have posted to you. Additionally vince is a branch manager and if you get stuck would probably be able to assist in identifying and locating parts.

As far as the poor performance is concerned, there are quite a few things that could cause that. It would be best to read through a few of the threads covering that and see what similarities you can identify but one of the commonest seems to be clogged or leaking breather and vacuum pipes, clogged/sticking EGR valves, leaking intercooler and the dreaded MAF, which I am about to go and get to grips with on my car, after procrastinating for months.

Again, this is really Lexia country. A diagnostic session could pinpoint a problem straight away, otherwise it is a bit of a guessing game.

A general, cheap and simple remedy for poor performance in cars that don't see much mileage is to give them a long hard run on a motorway and/or up and down some fairly steep hills. Gets them really working and can perform miracles. Commonly referred to as the 'Italian Tune-Up'

[dnsey]

Someone leap in here and correct me if I'm wrong but there should be no pressure to speak of at the filter after a few minutes.

Agreed, no pressure, but to avoid mess the best way is to attach a bit of tubing to the bleed nipple, and drain the housing that way. It's also recommended to prime the filter once the job's complete, by turning the ignition on and off a few times (saves the high pressure pump running dry). Worth noting that the lid of the housing can be pretty tight (there's a heavy spring keeping the element in place), so it may need a bit of force to remove.

[myglaren]

If it is any help, this is the air filter cover removed. filter just lifts out.



This is the MAF. DON'T TOUCH IT!
As you are having power issues it might be worthwhile cleaning it.



ONLY spray it with carb cleaner a few times, don't be tempted to touch it with anything and if you drop it it is dead - they are aprox. £100 from the dealers and generic ones are rubbish, see other posts on this subject

[boristhespie]

YOu guys are diamonds.

The filter I have read is best replaced as a whole unit. However if you check it (for pieces) and then clean it would that be okay. Thinking of cost.

The MAF pic aint working. I assume that is the sensor on the air pipe.


OOPS working now. At least in the forum.

[myglaren]

I'm finding the pictures rather slow to load. Could be an ImageShack problem.
Photobucket can't see the images on my computer to upload them.

OS bug likely.

[boristhespie]

Just a thought and maybe I am imagining it but the car in the morning and it's first run seems a little better at accelarating. Not completely up there (had trouble overtaking a Matize) but it does seem to have more pick-up. I also noticed a slightly better pickup when I topped up the oil a little.

[myglaren]

The filter I have read is best replaced as a whole unit. However if you check it (for pieces) and then clean it would that be okay. Thinking of cost.

That is the fuel filter and yes, a new unit is almost ten times the cost of a cartridge but if any fine swarf gets into the diesel pump then that is nearer 100x the cost.

As for it appearing to be a bit more lively first off, couldn't comment. Do be very careful not to overfill with oil though.

[boristhespie]

Okay going toservice own car C5

My Brother in Law is gonna watch me as I let rip.

What a stroke of luck.

But he's not as good as you guys.