XUD engine problem

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 12 May 2009, 01:25

GSF ?

Heard some horror stories about their parts.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 12 May 2009, 09:32

I've been using them for 10 years or more, I won't say I have never had a problem, but certainly no more than with anyone else.

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 12 May 2009, 10:52

Crossy, you'll find that most people on here use GSF, many regularly, without any major problems.
I've never had an issue with them over the past 3 years, other than once telling my dad that hatchback rear spheres would be better for an estate when I sent him to get the right ones.

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 12 May 2009, 15:15

I've 'spoken' to users on other forums who have bought 'new' injectors and they've had problems with them......

I guess there could have been a bad batch.

I was a Land Rover owner for a few years (Series 2 with a Prima transplant) and the inconsistency with aftermarket parts was incredible!

Along with 'questionable' mechanics, this is where I learnt to do most of the work myself.

I know its right then.

Xantidote · Post by **Xantidote** » 16 May 2009, 23:24

Crossy

If you've not yet sorted the injector, there's a specialist at Walton Summit, Bamber Bridge, Preston, who checked out spray pattern on a couple of injectors for me 3-4 yrs ago for free, but I can't comment on their rebuilding expertise. Try yellow pages for them. A few yrs back, had my BX's injectors recond by Diesel Injection Services, Burscough Ind. Estate, but probably too far for you

Martin

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 18 May 2009, 15:16

Cheers Martin.

I sent them to a lad off the Veg oil forum in the end.

Lets hope that cures the problem.
Will update as soon as I know.

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 16 Jun 2009, 11:18

Quick update.

Its NOT the injectors!

I was also getting loads of air 'sucked' in, so new fuel lines and a facet pump have cured that.

Started today...hooray. Let her get nice and warm. Turned her off and .......she wouldnt re-start. Back t square one. Poured cold water on IP but no difference.

I'm convinced its running retarded. So I re-checked the coolant temp sensor.
These are the figures with multimeter set at 2k.
Hot- 0.61
cooling-0.70

So am I right in thinking X 2000 to give 1220 and 1400 respectively?
The figures I've been given are:
2300-2700 @ 20C
3500-4100 @ 10C

Could this be the answer? I did unplug the sensor, but still no joy!

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 16 Jun 2009, 17:29

Just been to re-test the sensor...its now reading 0.22 at 200k...4400 Ohms?

Not far off the figure given at 10C....BUT it still will not start.

How is the timing PHYSCALLY altered on the AS3 system?

I know the ECU controls the timing but what alters on the pump, is there a small motor? I can see the cables under the IP but what do they terminate in?

If the car is left for a day or two it will start and run, when warm it will not re-start.
Could this 'device' that alters the timing be semi-seized ?

I think this is going to be a pump off job and take it t bits and see whats going on.....

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 16 Jun 2009, 18:21

If you're measuring on the 0-200K scale, just add K to the figure you see. So 0.22 is 220ohm. or 0.22Kohm

I have a terrible memory but I'm pretty sure (on my Ford) I would see about 60K when cold falling to about 3K when fully hot.

Perhaps someone with the proper auto data for your car can confirm/deny my guess?

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 16 Jun 2009, 19:01

If thats the case Mike, I would say the coolant temp sensor is goosed. Th figures quoted above are from a guy who looked it up for me already.

I just wonder what the high (or indeed low) figures are making the pump do?

Wheres Jim when needed!!!

I wish I could get a lexia.

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 17 Jun 2009, 15:52

Tested the coolant temp sensor again....3200 ohms (what it should be).....started 1st time !

Think a new one will be sought before pump is taken off!

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 17 Jun 2009, 16:16

I suppose it could be intermittently faulty - are you sure it's not a connection/wiring fault as a new sensor won't cure that?

If you do buy a new ECT, you can bench test the old sensor using hot water and ice to induce different readings. In fact, I'd advise you do this with the new sensor too so you know what readings you should be getting - if only to check the resistance values you've been given as accurate.

Another quick and dirty test might be to get the engine warmed up then temporarily bridge the connector (harness side) with a resistor of an equivalent "hot" value - (guessing 5K to 10K)- and see if the hot starting improves.

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 17 Jun 2009, 20:07

Thats a good idea Mike.

It would be handy if I could find the values myself though.
I've looked all over the net, but cant find anything. I guess Peugeot wont have these values now....but where would they be?

crossy2425 · Post by **crossy2425** » 27 Jul 2009, 23:13

Update.

I couldnt trace the fault, so I sourced a second hand pump...a fully mechanical one.
This has sorted the problem, so I have a car again.

I have yet to take the old pump to bits so I'm not aware if the pump or the sensors were at fault...or even the ecu.

What I have noticed is that now the various sensors are not being used, the aircon does not work !
Any ideas why?
Would this also prevent the cooling fans from working? if so, I need to rewire a switch or similar to allow cooling fan operation.

Any ideas gratefully received.

Post by **admiral51** » 28 Jul 2009, 00:22

A little late joining this thread

As for changing from a ECU controlled pump to a mechanical one then im not really the person to offer advice (Help needed here Jim

) but ill put my twopeneth worth in anyway

If you have only changed the pump then the ECU will still be looking for input from various sensors based on info from the pump sensors.If these are no longer present/live then the ECU will ignore them and go to some sort of default mode/setting

As for the A/C not working then i do have some experience of this

I have a 1.9D XUD lump that has a mechanical pump and does not take reading from pump/ecu settings although there are various posts about the A/C shutting down on tickover with a ECu controlled pump so this could also be another problem for you

As for the fans not working i believe they are dependant on the Bitron unit and information supplied to it from the sensor on the thermostat housing and not the pump ECU.Try pulling the brown sensor off its plug and see if both fans spin at high speed if not then i reckon its a case of relay and contact checking as far as they are concerened

HTH

Colin