My "love" of all things xantia...and Xm...and Cx..
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Hi Dave
Your XM display photo shows a LH and a RH display from an XM.
All LH alphanumeric displays have the Blue double row connector socket on the back. RH displays come with two different types of connector socket.
As shown 15 pin grey socket ones are clock, temperature and fuel consumption computer displays. There is a clock and temperature only version identified by a shorter 8 pin socket.
John
Your XM display photo shows a LH and a RH display from an XM.
All LH alphanumeric displays have the Blue double row connector socket on the back. RH displays come with two different types of connector socket.
As shown 15 pin grey socket ones are clock, temperature and fuel consumption computer displays. There is a clock and temperature only version identified by a shorter 8 pin socket.
John
Xmexclusive
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Interesting that there are two types of clock! Sadly even though mine is an exclusive it doesnt do the mileage, its the 8 pin version!
Dont supose its possible to retrofit? scene as i have the unit already!
For some reason the temperature readout on mine keeps flashing with no readout, its quite distracting!
I think im going to bleed the brakes today, as there seems to be quite a delay between pressing the pedal and anything actually happening!
Dont supose its possible to retrofit? scene as i have the unit already!
For some reason the temperature readout on mine keeps flashing with no readout, its quite distracting!
I think im going to bleed the brakes today, as there seems to be quite a delay between pressing the pedal and anything actually happening!
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
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Ive posted on the xm forum but thought id put it here too!
Basicallly there is a MASSIVE delay between pressing the brakes and anything happening! When it does it doesnt stop gently it just STOPS.
Aslo it sometimes Kangaroos ie delay then jerky braking.
This is very scary and I dont want to drive it at the moment!
My guess is that i let air in the system when i changed the accumulator? So a simple brake bleed should do it.
Have now found that i didnt run the car with the release screw open, so thats where i went wrong!
Basicallly there is a MASSIVE delay between pressing the brakes and anything happening! When it does it doesnt stop gently it just STOPS.
Aslo it sometimes Kangaroos ie delay then jerky braking.
This is very scary and I dont want to drive it at the moment!
My guess is that i let air in the system when i changed the accumulator? So a simple brake bleed should do it.
Have now found that i didnt run the car with the release screw open, so thats where i went wrong!
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
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Well all brakes bled and i did not get the air out, despite taking 1L + lhm out of each!
Think im letting air in somewhere! the only thing i can think is that when i put the new accumulator on the seal snagged.
I had a drive and the brakes seem a bit better but still not good enough.
had to take the passenger front arch liner off and found more rust
and a split cruise control hose, and a cable with a section missing Think that might be why the ABS is out of order!
Might be back to the trusty xantia quicker than i thought...
Think im letting air in somewhere! the only thing i can think is that when i put the new accumulator on the seal snagged.
I had a drive and the brakes seem a bit better but still not good enough.
had to take the passenger front arch liner off and found more rust
and a split cruise control hose, and a cable with a section missing Think that might be why the ABS is out of order!
Might be back to the trusty xantia quicker than i thought...
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
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Hi dave
The wire is for the brake pad wear sensor but trace it to be sure, not essential in fact i took mine off.
The bumper mounts always go on all but the best kept cars, welding here doesnt have to be neat but its not the end of the world at all, try rubbing it down first and getting some hammerite and waxol on there if its still sound but the bumper wont drop off if these side mounts are a tad rusty.
Leave the Xantia where it is
D
The wire is for the brake pad wear sensor but trace it to be sure, not essential in fact i took mine off.
The bumper mounts always go on all but the best kept cars, welding here doesnt have to be neat but its not the end of the world at all, try rubbing it down first and getting some hammerite and waxol on there if its still sound but the bumper wont drop off if these side mounts are a tad rusty.
Leave the Xantia where it is
D
XM Prestige PRV6 92
Talbot Express Autotrail Chinook 89
Mitsubishi L200 Trojan 14
Xantia Activa 95, sold (missed)
Service Citroen is awesome, it shows me pictures of all the parts i used to be able to buy............
Talbot Express Autotrail Chinook 89
Mitsubishi L200 Trojan 14
Xantia Activa 95, sold (missed)
Service Citroen is awesome, it shows me pictures of all the parts i used to be able to buy............
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Dave
Looking at the wires for the abs it doesnt seem familia to me so i dont think your abs is either of the two Bendix systems, looks like it could be teves.........bloody unreliable teves eh Xmexc (he will message back and tell me its Bendix now you watch )
Anyway there is plenty of stuff on the other forum for abs fault finding, start with testing the resistance of each sensor they are mostly the cause of abs failure, that and corroded plugs/internaly broken wires.
D
Looking at the wires for the abs it doesnt seem familia to me so i dont think your abs is either of the two Bendix systems, looks like it could be teves.........bloody unreliable teves eh Xmexc (he will message back and tell me its Bendix now you watch )
Anyway there is plenty of stuff on the other forum for abs fault finding, start with testing the resistance of each sensor they are mostly the cause of abs failure, that and corroded plugs/internaly broken wires.
D
XM Prestige PRV6 92
Talbot Express Autotrail Chinook 89
Mitsubishi L200 Trojan 14
Xantia Activa 95, sold (missed)
Service Citroen is awesome, it shows me pictures of all the parts i used to be able to buy............
Talbot Express Autotrail Chinook 89
Mitsubishi L200 Trojan 14
Xantia Activa 95, sold (missed)
Service Citroen is awesome, it shows me pictures of all the parts i used to be able to buy............
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- Joined: 01 Apr 2009, 21:06
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I will be out there with the multi meter tomorrow!
I dont know which one it is, but there were two bleed valves on the ABS block.
So if its broken wires, is it may be possible to repair! Well ill find out 2moro.
I dont know which one it is, but there were two bleed valves on the ABS block.
So if its broken wires, is it may be possible to repair! Well ill find out 2moro.
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
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Right then, things have improved!!
THe air has stopped flowing, i think i didnt open the regulator screw enough!, when i did, the cap popped off the LHM tank because so much air came back!!
So im off to GSF to get two rear spheres plus a rear accumulator and hydroflush etc! then ill bleed them for the third time...
THe air has stopped flowing, i think i didnt open the regulator screw enough!, when i did, the cap popped off the LHM tank because so much air came back!!
So im off to GSF to get two rear spheres plus a rear accumulator and hydroflush etc! then ill bleed them for the third time...
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
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- A very naughty boy
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Pleased that's resolved Dave. Good luck on the rear spheres. Remember same applies as on a Xantia. Break them under full pressure on high with car well supported and you'll need a good, beefy sphere tool.
I reckon you'll feel a massive difference once that is done
I reckon you'll feel a massive difference once that is done
Jim
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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- Posts: 880
- Joined: 01 Apr 2009, 21:06
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Well i got the rear spheres done, but not the accumulator. I kind of chickened out. I will wait untill i get ramps as i dont fancy doing it with axel stands incase it some how moves and crushes me!
Havnt checked how it rides yet, literally just finished!
However the brakes are fine now!!!!!
I think i have a small LHM leak somewhere around the regulator though!!
Havnt checked how it rides yet, literally just finished!
However the brakes are fine now!!!!!
I think i have a small LHM leak somewhere around the regulator though!!
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
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- A very naughty boy
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- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
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Brilliant Dave I believe the rear accumulator is a right PITA on an XM. far worse than the A/S sphere on a Xantia and they can be bad enough!!!
Why do you think you have a leak around the regulator? Whereabouts?
Why do you think you have a leak around the regulator? Whereabouts?
Jim
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...