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- A very naughty boy
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Chris, where is this hole on the leakage return spigot exactly? Often the spigot starts to split; a little crack develops.
The leakage return pipe proper should be firmly attached to one of the high pressure flexis by way of the special rubber bands. If the leakage return pipe is not well supported then articulation of the ram could strain the spigot and start off a crack.
Looking at the rear ram on Xac's Activa, which has the mother of all worn bushes on it, I reckon the XM gaiter mod can be done in-situ with care. Remove the spare wheel cradle and then undo the ram top nut and then carry on as per my guide. The ram will flop horizontal, pivoting on the lower eye, and will give plenty of room to do the job.
The leakage return pipe proper should be firmly attached to one of the high pressure flexis by way of the special rubber bands. If the leakage return pipe is not well supported then articulation of the ram could strain the spigot and start off a crack.
Looking at the rear ram on Xac's Activa, which has the mother of all worn bushes on it, I reckon the XM gaiter mod can be done in-situ with care. Remove the spare wheel cradle and then undo the ram top nut and then carry on as per my guide. The ram will flop horizontal, pivoting on the lower eye, and will give plenty of room to do the job.
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Hi Jim, the hole is a little higher up towards the leakage return pipe than half way. It is on the back of the spiggot, nearest the high pressure pipes.
I have pushed in the pipe and its stopped the leak, as it has passed where the hole is. How far in should the pipe be, in relation to the little bulb on the pip, should that be the stop for pushing in the pipe to the spiggot or does that want to be inside the pipe? It was sticking out of the pipe by about 5mm.
The leakage return is attatched to a high pressure pipes, ill have another look at it and see how well it is fixed.
Ill check it again tonight when I get in with the Xantia and see how it appears then. Ive just moved it out of the garage and there is no LHM left behind.
Ill be looking into your gaiter repair later on too, as ive not studied it in great detail. Good to know that it might be able to be done in situ.
Thanks Robert, the XM will be at the CXM, very much looking forward to that.
I have pushed in the pipe and its stopped the leak, as it has passed where the hole is. How far in should the pipe be, in relation to the little bulb on the pip, should that be the stop for pushing in the pipe to the spiggot or does that want to be inside the pipe? It was sticking out of the pipe by about 5mm.
The leakage return is attatched to a high pressure pipes, ill have another look at it and see how well it is fixed.
Ill check it again tonight when I get in with the Xantia and see how it appears then. Ive just moved it out of the garage and there is no LHM left behind.
Ill be looking into your gaiter repair later on too, as ive not studied it in great detail. Good to know that it might be able to be done in situ.
Thanks Robert, the XM will be at the CXM, very much looking forward to that.
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- A very naughty boy
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Ah ha, thanks Jim.
The leakage return pipe was sticking out by about 5mm, which I think has not helped with the hole in the spigot. The end of the leakage return pipe is now pushed in past the hole and the leak has still not appeared, even after doing 35 miles today its still fine, so im hoping that is the end of that, for now at least. Ill keep an eye on it.
Im dubious that someone had been there before, in that there was silicone sealant around the spigot and hole This was actually doing nothing at all as it was coming away and I can't see how it could have ever helped anything. I removed that straight away and cleaned up the area so I can keep a watch on it. If it stays leak free then ill leave it be, if it appears again ill set about replacing the gaiter with the XM replacement.
Im still really enjoying this nice quiet ride
Im contemplating dropping down to Little Horwood at the weekend for the DSM this Sunday. If I do go ill drive down after work on Saturday and travel back on the Sunday evening. It was a good show last year, might even bring the Xant if I decide to go.
The leakage return pipe was sticking out by about 5mm, which I think has not helped with the hole in the spigot. The end of the leakage return pipe is now pushed in past the hole and the leak has still not appeared, even after doing 35 miles today its still fine, so im hoping that is the end of that, for now at least. Ill keep an eye on it.
Im dubious that someone had been there before, in that there was silicone sealant around the spigot and hole This was actually doing nothing at all as it was coming away and I can't see how it could have ever helped anything. I removed that straight away and cleaned up the area so I can keep a watch on it. If it stays leak free then ill leave it be, if it appears again ill set about replacing the gaiter with the XM replacement.
Im still really enjoying this nice quiet ride

Im contemplating dropping down to Little Horwood at the weekend for the DSM this Sunday. If I do go ill drive down after work on Saturday and travel back on the Sunday evening. It was a good show last year, might even bring the Xant if I decide to go.
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- A very naughty boy
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That's great ChrisCitroenmad wrote: Im still really enjoying this nice quiet ride


Citroenmad wrote: Im contemplating dropping down to Little Horwood at the weekend for the DSM this Sunday.
Excellent

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Its the quality of your replacement bush which has done the job nicely Jim
Yes, quite a good way of testing it actually.
Should there be any play in the top joint? It seemed that with the lower joint off I could rattle the top around a bit, but its not causing a noise.
Ill probably be there in that case Jim, ill be there for the Sunday as I wont get there till late Saturday, ill be in a nearby hotel, when I find one.
Old V6 derived of any events, you can't have that
Will you have your Lexia on hand at the weekend Jim?

Yes, quite a good way of testing it actually.
Should there be any play in the top joint? It seemed that with the lower joint off I could rattle the top around a bit, but its not causing a noise.
Ill probably be there in that case Jim, ill be there for the Sunday as I wont get there till late Saturday, ill be in a nearby hotel, when I find one.
Old V6 derived of any events, you can't have that

Will you have your Lexia on hand at the weekend Jim?
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Indeed not! In that case then, Old V6 on Saturday and Activa on SundayCitroenmad wrote: Old V6 derived of any events, you can't have that

No, the top joint should have no play at all. I find on well-used rams the joint is quite loose and floppy but there's a big difference between floppy and playful. I've also found that these joints can be really dry of grease when the gaiter is removed. It might be a good idea to slip the top nut off and carefully remove the gaiter and assess the condition of the joint and then feed it a good meal of moly (or CV joint) grease. Take care with the gaiter, it's a ****** to get off...
I recall when Kev still owned the car he noted it and asked around if anyone had a duff ram he could have the top joint from.
Sadly, I've not as all my spare rears are repairable. However, if push really came to shove and you needed one then I'd see you right... If push really came to shove I reckon I can fabricate one from the balljoint on a decent quality droplink, else a steering rack inner balljoint. In fact the rack joint is much more like it...
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Mine does have some play in it but it doesn't seem too great. Ill inspect the grease in the gaiter and check the joint condition. I suspect its a matter of assessing if the play is enough to warrant a replacement ram or joint.
What effect will the play have? I thought it would rattle but it doesn't. I guess it will impair the effectiveness of the ram?
I did do a search yesterday and found Kevs posts regarding the top joint, though im not sure how far into investigating it he got. I know it wasn't changed though. Kev suggested if he had the car he would fit a new ram, though that to buy is a considerably proportion of the cars value!
This is something I should look into, as id like to see that its right. In any case, play isnt good so ill need to find a solution. I do wonder if its at a stage where a repair is needed, I can't detect an issue with roll, rattling or something which might suggest to me that its badly worn other than the ability to rattle the top joint slightly with the rear joint detached.
That is very generous of you Jim, I would appreciate any help with this as its all very new to me.
What effect will the play have? I thought it would rattle but it doesn't. I guess it will impair the effectiveness of the ram?
I did do a search yesterday and found Kevs posts regarding the top joint, though im not sure how far into investigating it he got. I know it wasn't changed though. Kev suggested if he had the car he would fit a new ram, though that to buy is a considerably proportion of the cars value!
This is something I should look into, as id like to see that its right. In any case, play isnt good so ill need to find a solution. I do wonder if its at a stage where a repair is needed, I can't detect an issue with roll, rattling or something which might suggest to me that its badly worn other than the ability to rattle the top joint slightly with the rear joint detached.
That is very generous of you Jim, I would appreciate any help with this as its all very new to me.
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Any play in the top joint will sound like a bad drop link Chris...
I'd have a look at it and get some grease going in there... You'll need to remove the top nut. Wire brush the exposed threads well, apply Plus Gas and initially 'break' the 18mm nut with a good socket and T bar. Then counterhold the threaded part with an Allen key in the top and undo the 18mm nut against it.
The gaiter is a devil to get off. It's tight around the balljoint body and needs a heck of a pull.
This page shows the balljoint and the method of removing the gaiter...
I think, if the wear is not excessive, after greasing, it might be possible to carefully peen the ballcup with a brass drift to close up any play...
If the play is really bad the ball may pop out of the ballcup and that would not be good...
I'd have a look at it and get some grease going in there... You'll need to remove the top nut. Wire brush the exposed threads well, apply Plus Gas and initially 'break' the 18mm nut with a good socket and T bar. Then counterhold the threaded part with an Allen key in the top and undo the 18mm nut against it.
The gaiter is a devil to get off. It's tight around the balljoint body and needs a heck of a pull.
This page shows the balljoint and the method of removing the gaiter...
I think, if the wear is not excessive, after greasing, it might be possible to carefully peen the ballcup with a brass drift to close up any play...
If the play is really bad the ball may pop out of the ballcup and that would not be good...
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Thanks Jim.
Well yes, I would have thought it make a noise too, but it now doesnt make any noises from the rear suspension after doing the bush, as I said before its all quiet on that front.
Ill whip off the top gaiter, inspect for wear and add in some grease.
What with the lack of noise it can't be too bad, im thinking
Well yes, I would have thought it make a noise too, but it now doesnt make any noises from the rear suspension after doing the bush, as I said before its all quiet on that front.
Ill whip off the top gaiter, inspect for wear and add in some grease.
What with the lack of noise it can't be too bad, im thinking

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