Xantia coolant leak after cambelt change

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 14 Apr 2009, 11:59

As Xac said, a jack with a block of wood under the sumpworked fine for me. You don't actually need much movement to get to all the bolts.

XantiaExclusiveHDI · Post by **XantiaExclusiveHDI** » 14 Apr 2009, 14:02

Toby_HDi wrote:As Xac said, a jack with a block of wood under the sumpworked fine for me. You don't actually need much movement to get to all the bolts.

OK - I've read up further. I think it's way beyond my capabilities

Haynes reads that you also have to remove the rear engine mount - which requires removing the driveshaft - which requires a special tool and draining the transmission and on and on it goes...! I had no idea this was such a complex and lengthy procedure - just to get to the water pump!

I'm so frustrated now. Given the garage left half the bolts undone on the covers and the right hand engine mount - I dread to think what else hasn't been done correctly looking at this procedure.

I'm going to declare my car SORN and use my bicycle which I've been using since this mess started. I've lost all trust in garages now thanks to those idiots.

Oh well...

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 14 Apr 2009, 17:37

Remove the rear engine mount???
Are you sure?
Shirley it's just the driver's side engine mount at the top...

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 14 Apr 2009, 18:14

XantiaExclusiveHDI wrote:Haynes reads that you also have to remove the rear engine mount - which requires removing the driveshaft - which requires a special tool and draining the transmission and on and on it goes...! I had no idea this was such a complex and lengthy procedure - just to get to the water pump!

Err no you don't, or at least I didn't when I changed the belt on my HDi yesterday.

XantiaExclusiveHDI · Post by **XantiaExclusiveHDI** » 14 Apr 2009, 19:16

DickieG wrote:
XantiaExclusiveHDI wrote:Haynes reads that you also have to remove the rear engine mount - which requires removing the driveshaft - which requires a special tool and draining the transmission and on and on it goes...! I had no idea this was such a complex and lengthy procedure - just to get to the water pump!
Err no you don't, or at least I didn't when I changed the belt on my HDi yesterday.

Pah! That's Haynes for you then! It reads in the 2.0 Litre HDI Chapter 2C.5 - Section 6: Timing Belt Covers removal and refitting step 16: 'Remove the right hand engine mounting and rear engine mounting as described in section 17'
Section 17 goes on to say that in order to remove the rear mounting the right hand drive shaft has to be removed as in Chapter 8.

I'd rather trust what you guys suggest

OK - I'm feeling a bit better about it if that's the case! Just ordered a nice shiny new metal impellor pump. Oh and ordered the Sisters car out of the garage for an unforseen amount of time

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 14 Apr 2009, 19:57

Indeed, as DickieG says, you do not need to remove the rear mount.

There is a reason the Haynes is know as the Book of Lies (BoL) around these parts

By doing it yourself you will save a nice sum of money and once completed have an immense feeling of satisfaction and pride that you done the job yourself.

Of course, there will also be help and support from the chaps on here every step of the way

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 14 Apr 2009, 22:36

Toby_HDi wrote:One other thing to note is that there is a cambelt cover bolt that also retains the coolant pump. You mention loose bolts so this could be worth looking at. IIRC from when I did mine it is an 11mm headed bolt

Good point here Toby because as soon as I removed that bolt coolant leaked out of it, at first I thought I'd split a hose somewhere

XantiaExclusiveHDI · Post by **XantiaExclusiveHDI** » 23 Apr 2009, 20:31

Today was THE day....
I am pleased to report it has all gone quite smoothly thus far (I really shouldn't be tempting fate by saying that should I....)!
Where do I start?!
Removing the top cover was easy enough. I supported the engine from below with a trolley jack topped with plywood and by the side of that I built up a further support of concrete blocks topped with plywood - just in case. The intermediate cover was more difficult - but I found I could reach the bolts and remove them without lifting / lowering the engine as suggested in the BoL! I used a ratchet spanner and a degree of patience... Maybe I've got nimble fingers

Locking the auxilliary drive belt was tedious but manageable. I used an allen key taped to a screwdriver to give reach which worked very well as the locking tool!
The crank pulley was interesting... I found the best way was with a 2 foot breaker bar and levering up from the underside in front of the car. A few hard pulls up and it slackened off. Lower timing cover was easy after that.
I had to dismount the starter (not before removing the air cleaner box which gives better access to the bolts) to get access to the flywheel locking hole. My method of locking the fly was to use an 8mm drill bit taped to a screwdriver at right angles - which was then levered with the aid of an elastic band tied to a suitable point. Then as I turned the crank slowly around the point of the cam sprocket alignment position - the bit popped in at its alignment position. Yippee!
I decided to just remove the timing belt from the water pump and the tensioner as it was only the pump I was interested in.
As I thought - three of the timing cover bolts were loose - and one was indeed securing the water pump. This was where the water had been leaking from. I took some photo's!
I removed the pump and replaced it with the new one complete with new gasket - after cleaning up all the surfaces and applying a little hematite.
I replaced the timing belt - tensioned up - removed the locks and rotated the crank ten times. I then managed to refit the two locks successfully.
Currently I have the belt tensioned so that I can just turn the top run 90 degrees with the same force as before I relased the tensioner.

That's it for today!
All is well - though I KNOW I shouldn't speak too soon!

All in all - I have to say if I complete this job successfully I'm going to be mighty proud

I'll also be mighty grateful to all you guys for your advice

I will also be wondering why I paid so much for the job to be done so badly!

Will report back on tomorrows proceedings...

C.

Deanxm · Post by **Deanxm** » 23 Apr 2009, 21:17

Hi Xantexc

Its a good feeling when a plan comes together isnt it 8)

The sad truth is even when a garage has given you no cause for concern after work has been completed, 9 times out of 10 if you get under the car and have a look yourself there is something that isnt done right

.

D

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 23 Apr 2009, 21:21

Well done, from your description it sounds as if you've done everything OK and really broken the back of the job

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 23 Apr 2009, 21:21

Excellent news

That feeling of achievement is always a pleasant one isn't it.

Well done

XantiaExclusiveHDI · Post by **XantiaExclusiveHDI** » 24 Apr 2009, 20:39

Job Done!

Today I started by draining what was left in the cooling system then flushing everything out. I filled up with new coolant / de-ionised water utilising a header made from a 1 litre de-ionised water bottle. I used adhesive backed foam strip for sealing the neck. There were two bleeding points that I could find - one on the thermo housing - and one on a heater hose at the bulkhead. I filled up until these flowed with coolant. I removed the two locking tools then reinstated all that had been disturbed aside from the intermediate and upper timing belt covers.
Then I checked everything over and over to make sure I hadn't missed anything.
I sat in the drivers seat and said a little prayer to the Citroen God

I turned the key and hey presto!

I ran the engine for 30 minutes or so with the cabin heater on hot and kept squashing the upper radiator hose to help dispurse any air. This eventually found its way up and out of the expansion tank via the homemade header.

After I was satisfied all air had been dispelled I decided to taker her for a spin. I took my mobile phone as well....

All was well. It was lovely to be back driving my beautiful Hydropneumatic Hover Car!

I drove for around 8 miles to get her up to temperature. On my return I checked everything including the timing belt tension. It had indeed tightened up - but I was still able to twist it 90 degrees but with quite some force compared to before. Is this about right would you say?

I didn't alter the tensioner on the auxiliary belt. This seemed to be OK and as before I could twist the longest run 90 degrees with a bit of force.

I now have a leak free car with a new water pump - renewed coolant and ALL bolts tightened up

Is there anything else I should be aware of or do following this job?

C.

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Xantia coolant leak after cambelt change

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