Interesting you say that because guess what... Now I've overhauled my rear brakes using copper grease my ABS is playing up. (Activating at slow speed / light braking, I.E. pulling up at traffic lights ect. *Grabs handbrake* )
Some times the ABS light is on at start up but not always. Tried the usual changing the ride height / steering angle as I presumed it was a cable braking down, maybe not then. Have you any more information on this copper grease / ABS problem? Would like to hear more.
As for "sacrificial parts involved when tearing down and reassembling", on the rear I was lucky it went quite smoothly but the rear calliper bolts were VERY corroded on the threads. By that I mean the 'scale' had traveled down the thread making it VERY tight even once the bolt was 'cracked'. I can see why others have had big problems with them shearing off. Suggest lots of penetrating oil over a week or so before you do the job, could save yourself a lot of problems. Do the 3 10mm bolts that hold the shield on as well as they always shear if you don't. I wasn't able to get the solid brake line out of the calliper either. The 8mm union unscrewed ok but the pipe was not coming out unless I broke it out. I unclipped it from the swing arm to allow more movement & was able to do the job ok.
Xantia brakes
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Thanks for the detailed comments on fragility of parts. I am hoping our relative dryness has been an asset (although we're currently in protracted heavy rains).
The Wurth copper stuff is supposed to be nonconductive, according to my skim-reading. I'm curious, too, on how a copper grease can effect a magnetically pulsed signal.
Regards, Adam.
The Wurth copper stuff is supposed to be nonconductive, according to my skim-reading. I'm curious, too, on how a copper grease can effect a magnetically pulsed signal.
Regards, Adam.
Pipe end is 11mm
Caliper end is 14mm
I found with the flare nut spanners that I needed to pop the spanner over the pipe and then slide it up and onto the nut.
Caliper end is 14mm
I found with the flare nut spanners that I needed to pop the spanner over the pipe and then slide it up and onto the nut.
Toby
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That's odd that they're being such a Mike. Normally, the combination of LHM and fortutious sprays of engine oil acting as a rustproofer normally makes disconnecting this end of the pipe a cinch.
I'm wondering if the union nut is binding on the pipe due to it not being 100% straight or there is dirt between the pipe and nut binding it.
All the ones I've done have yielded with a good quality 11mm open-ender.
One idea to make a good tool for the stubborn ones is to take a 1/4" drive 11mm socket (a cheap Chinese one will do) and cut a lengthwise slot in it the width of the pipe and weld a small handle onto it. You'll then have a flare nut socket spanner that will likely be a much snugger (is that a word?) fit on the nut than a conventional flare-nut spanner.
I'm wondering if the union nut is binding on the pipe due to it not being 100% straight or there is dirt between the pipe and nut binding it.
All the ones I've done have yielded with a good quality 11mm open-ender.
One idea to make a good tool for the stubborn ones is to take a 1/4" drive 11mm socket (a cheap Chinese one will do) and cut a lengthwise slot in it the width of the pipe and weld a small handle onto it. You'll then have a flare nut socket spanner that will likely be a much snugger (is that a word?) fit on the nut than a conventional flare-nut spanner.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...