xantia_v6 wrote:
My main question though, is what are the early symptoms of this type of transmission failure? or of a partially blocked oil filter?
Not many I'm given to understand. The whine seems to be the main one as the pump is starved. And it seems they don't whine for long before bidding goodnight Vienna

If it whines, take that as a sign of almost imminient failure and get it looked at.
Another early symptom may be a whine on start-up or a delay in taking up power when cold.
Ekaftan has raised a very good point about the torque convertor lock-up clutch being the primary cause of gearbox failure. It seems, bourne out by a bit of research today, that the lock-up cluch friction lining breaks ups and the bits end up swilling around the gearbox and clogging the filter and cooler. The torque convertor is a sealed unit and impossible to see inside of (except perhaps with an endoscope) or effectively flush so as a precaution, I'll replace mine with my spare. My spare has been out in the rain for a time but luckily upside-down so no water has got inside. I'll also change the transmission cooler for the good one from my spares 'box. I have a brand-new filter.
Progress on the removal of the duff gearbox from my V6 has been very good today. The first job was to remove the RH driveshaft. Mindful of John's (jgra1) adventures in this department, I approached the job with some trepidation. It's not easy as one "hockey stick" (Intermediate bearing retainer) nut is very hard to reach or even see on account of having an exhaust system curling around the driveshaft! However, a socket on the end of a long extension plus a universal joint and another extension undid it and the last task of checking and setting the hockey stick disenagaged can be done from the wheelarch with a cranked ring spanner, just.
That done, it was time to see if the driveshaft would move. Nope. Stuck fast

They can stick not only in the intermediate bearing housing but also on the gearbox splines. Unlike a manual, these autos have dry driveshaft splines and the driveshafts can be removed without spilling oil. This of course means that rust can build up on the splines and stick it fast.
Another problem is one of access, it's hard, due to the presence of the aforementioned exhaust system, to get good purchase on the bearing collar with anything to apply useful blows to it. However, I have a long, thinnish cold chisel about two and a half feet long. I could angle this up against the collar and manage to give it whacks from a club hammer. With a douse of Plus Gas and a good helping of Citronut's Percy Whatsit, I was successful. It still took a good hour though.
Enough of lying underneath for now. Next on the list was the inlet manifold. That's an easy enough job. When I removed the manifold I could smell petrol and found the inlet tract quite wet. It last ran about two weeks ago briefly, just to raise the suspension to get it on stands. I also noticed it only had half a manifold gasket

On the V6, the manifold needs removing to do the sparkplugs in the rear bank so it's doubtless been off a few times in the life of the car. I'm sure though that the missing gasket could not be good and the mixture must have been upset.
Next off was the LHM reservoir and I was pleased to see it full of squeaky clean LHM and spotless filters

Unlike most Xantias, the reservoir must come off in the V6 when removing the gearbox. Not only does it give a bit more access generally but it also allows the ABS block mounting tray to be removed. This too is esential so that the ABS block can move sideways to give access to the gearbox mount. It is impossible to reach it otherwise. Luckily, no need to disconnect any ABS block pipes

They flex far enough to expose the mount.
The last job today was the removal of the hydraulic pressure regulator. This is different on the V6 as it hangs off the gearbox upside-down like a roosting bat. Access loks terrible but like so many things on a Xantia generally and a V6 in particular, it will just allow itself to be removed. Just be careful when disconnecting fragile LHM return pipe.
Once again, my magical Pleiades tool came into its own for cracking off the accumulator; it's angled just perfectly for the job and as with most things in the V6, the sphere is hemmed in and not easy to get purchase on with anything else.
So far, everything I've needed to remove has been just removable despite the shortage of space and "shonehorned in" nature of the beast generally. Whoever packaged the V6 in the Xantia was a very clever person or maybe just a Tetris fan. Whatever, it works and what initially looks impossible usually turns out not to be, despite being far from straightforward!
Removing a pressure regulator is a messy job made worse by the sphere being upside down on it
The good news is that it looks like the starter motor can stay put. It's not bolted through the bellhousing like a conventional one.
Finally, a couple of pictures...
The first shows a general view of the engine bay with lots removed. The gearbox mount (goldy coloured donut) can now been seen and got to
This is a closer view of the rather more exposed gearbox

Almost sufficiently exposed now (I hope) to allow removal of same..
The only remaining snag are a few smallish coolant hoses blocking access to a bellhousing bolt and the TDC sensor; they'll have to come off.
The V6 cooling system is an amazing thing. lots of pipes and just visble in the second picture is a cream coloured spherical expansion tank in the cooling system piping below the main header tank up on the bulkhead. I guess it's some kind of expansion tank but who knows on a V6 quite what it is or what it's purpose is?
It's been a good day
In my next instalment, I hope to report the presence of a gearbox safely in the workshop being stripped to finally get to the bottom of the question of what goes wrong with them.
Stay tuned!