New member, New owner

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

admiral51 wrote:Hey Jim TRYPING at the same time :lol: :lol:

Colin
Wonderful word there Colin. You should copyright it.

I often find myself tryping. I don't think there is any cure for it :D

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Re: New member, New owner

Post by MikeT »

ThePriest wrote:Hello new here and have a few questions.
Hello and welcome, I love this type of "quiz", it gives me a chance to prove what I've learnt since joining this helpful forum :lol:
ThePriest wrote:Rear ride is hard and bouncy
This could be height corrector linkage and/or spheres. As you've already got new spheres (assuming they're the correct ones) you might as well fit them.
ThePriest wrote:Second is the car did not come with a handbook so I am stumped to know which fuse/relay controls what.
If you check the link that Admiral provided, you'll find copy(s) already kindly posted.
ThePriest wrote:The Air Con does not work. No light on the switch when activated and no change in engine speed/sound Reverse lights are working OK.
The A/C button illumination light may actually be on but it's common for the diffuser to overheat and discolour, giving the appearance of an extremely dim bulb (have you looked in pitch darkness?). The A/C won't engage (and slow the engine) unless certain conditions are met. I don't know them all but; a lack of gas pressure, climate control settings and (though I may be mistaken on this) freezing weather. Though, when the compressor is running, you should be able to see the gas/fluid moving through the sightglass window xac mentioned and the fans should operate also.
ThePriest wrote:The fan stays on full but the rear window demister is working OK. If I have read it right this probably means it is not the ignition problem but is related to the AC not working.
If you mean the interior blower when you say "the fan" then Jim's already covered that one. Whereas it's the rear screen demister which is commonally linked to the ignition switch and the blower not coming on. It's no wonder these cars can send grown mechanics running to hide :lol:
ThePriest wrote:When changing into third gear either up or down there is a crunch. It does engage with no more difficulty than any other gear. The previous owner said it had been OK until a plastic clip on the clutch cable snapped (he replaced it)
PASS. I can only "guess" cable too slack or (more likely?) synchromesh broken.
ThePriest wrote:And finally. there is some wetness in the passenger footwell. Is there anywhere in particular this may be coming from that I could seal up?
Probably rain water. See mention of scuttle and screen above.

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admiral51
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Post by admiral51 »

myglaren wrote:
admiral51 wrote:Hey Jim TRYPING at the same time :lol: :lol:

Colin
Wonderful word there Colin. You should copyright it.

I often find myself tryping. I don't think there is any cure for it :D
I cannot tell a lie :oops: so i cant copyright it :(

I heard it on radio 2 something to do with TRYPING ERRIT :lol: :lol:

Colin

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Post by ThePriest »

ThePriest wrote:
Second is the car did not come with a handbook so I am stumped to know which fuse/relay controls what.
If you check the link that Admiral provided, you'll find copy(s) already kindly posted.
Can't see a link re this am I just being totally blind here, have I missed it somewhere? :oops:

Thanks for the info every little bit builds up the jigsaw one more piece. Yes it was the blower I meant and the light definitely does not come on not even dimly.

Looking at the picture of my interior fuse box and comparing it to the Haynes there seems to be several fuses that are not in the correct place or are of the wrong amperage. Can someone confirm this?

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

Ages ago I found a C5 manual online.

As I have a paper one it was of academic interest only but I'll have a bit of a dig and see if I can root it out again as I'm sure there were manuals on the list for at least ten other models, Xantia included.

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Post by CitroJim »

Roger, sorry, I forgot to say a few words about third gear. Mike, thanks for reminding me!

If the clutch cable clip did go and a forced change into third was made, the synchro cone will be damaged for sure. The synchro hubs are of the old-fashined cone type, are made of soft alloy and damage very easily if either lubrication is poor or the clutch goes.

This is a worn one:

Image

They can be replaced fairly easily (see my website) but the cone is eyewateringly expensive. Best to live with it for now and if you have to have the 'box off for any reason in the future, attend to the job then. Easiest cure is another 'box that's in good nick. generally if you look after the oil (only ever use 75W/80 oil) and have a good clutch the synchros last for a long time.

On the fuses, be wary of the BoL (Book of Lies). We call it that for good reason :lol:

If you let me have the RP number of the car (you'll find it stencilled on the offside bulkhead under the bonnet), I can supply a scan of the fusebox and fuse functions applicable to your car.

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Post by MikeT »

ThePriest wrote:Can't see a link re this am I just being totally blind here, have I missed it somewhere?
The specific link is below, in a blue font.
admiral51 wrote:....If you are having problems with the fans have a look at Mike T Fan Troubles

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ThePriest
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Post by ThePriest »

MikeT wrote:
ThePriest wrote:Can't see a link re this am I just being totally blind here, have I missed it somewhere?
The specific link is below, in a blue font.
admiral51 wrote:....If you are having problems with the fans have a look at Mike T Fan Troubles
So I was being thick then, nothing new there unfortunately.

Thanks again.

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Post by MJM »

I would strongly recommend having the aircon checked out properly. I think Kwikfit do it and have read some good recommendations from people who have used them. I have seen the diy recharge cans on sale and in my opinion they are an accident waiting to happen for a variety of reasons. To name but one, you don't know what pressure you have in your system. If you connect the top up can to the wrong access fitting the pressure in the system may be higher than the can will stand!

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Post by Xaccers »

MJM wrote:I would strongly recommend having the aircon checked out properly. I think Kwikfit do it and have read some good recommendations from people who have used them. I have seen the diy recharge cans on sale and in my opinion they are an accident waiting to happen for a variety of reasons. To name but one, you don't know what pressure you have in your system. If you connect the top up can to the wrong access fitting the pressure in the system may be higher than the can will stand!
You can't fit it to the wrong access port, the high pressure one is the wrong size.

They're not very effective though, and for their price you might as well get the system checked out as MJM says by the "professionals" (I know, seems strange calling Kwik fit that)

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Post by MJM »

I did wonder about the access port sizes,Xac, but I'm not certain that all vehicles use the same size ports. I've seen various adaptors for sale on aircon component websites. There are several reasons why compressors fail to cut in, and really a set of guages need to be connected to both ports to give an indication of the pressures on both sides of the system. I don't know what pressure the Halfords cans are at but I would be concerned that connecting the can may well inject gas into a system which is not short of it and has failed for another reason. (fuse, relay, sensor etc.) Once the real cause is found the system is then effectively overcharged. How do you then remove the excess refrigerant?

I also wonder if the F Gas regulations apply to these cans and they are being sold "illegally". I'm not even sure if a user could be prosecuted for venting the gas to atmosphere. I know that at work we have to use a reclaim unit to exhaust systems if required.

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

I had an auto electrician do mine on the doorstep. He checked the whole system, evacuated the gas, recharged it to the correct weight and it was as god as new (hadn't worked for a over year).
He also did my son's car (306)recharging the gas, replacing a burned out relay and socket, also fixed my non-opening tailgate window.
£90 the lot.

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Post by ThePriest »

Haven't had a chance to look at it much yet as the weekends are generally busy for me, especially Sundays, but I did manage to get it up on my car ramps and have a look under the back to see how easy the spheres are to get at. Look very easy. Is there a way of cracking them off so they can be unscrewed without buying the special tool. I am on a very very restricted budget and the less I can sprend the better.

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Post by CitroJim »

ThePriest wrote: Is there a way of cracking them off so they can be unscrewed without buying the special tool. I am on a very very restricted budget and the less I can sprend the better.
Hopefully Xac will be along in a bit to describe his "Xac Special" sphere removal tool that was made from a length of square tube, a length of M8 studding, a couple of nuts and washers and a lamp-post! All up cost - nil to a tenner depending on what you have in stock. It works too, very well :D

You really do need a tool of some sort as the rear speheres can be very tight. A small chain wrench or webbing strap designed for oil filters will be found very wanting on rear spheres. Have a read of the "sticky" on sphere removal concerning the precautions to take when removing rear spheres, especially the SAFETY warning and the importance of initially cracking them off with the suspension on high and under full load. The wheel cylinders they screw into are aluminium and not up to huge amounts of abuse. Don't go down cold chisel and big hammer route :twisted:

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Post by ThePriest »

I don't suppose anyone here who has one lives in South Wales and would be willing to let me use it for half an hour?

Just a thought.

BTW I just saw the Youtube vid, very god sleek and pro. nice work.