Xantia rear door area moulding rust

[XantiaMan]

Bloody hell its just like a Maestro!

This seam is not a million miles away from the C pillar join on my Maestro. From factory it should have a thin smear of seam sealer, on my Maestro, all external seams like this had nothing to stop the water getting in.

Because its spot welded the seam will not be perfectly flat, and a build up of moisture and dirt will form, especially if you are not keen on washing the door shut out.

Here a bodged Maestro one, it had been plastered with filler over the years making it worse. The Maestro in question was well known and i had to do lots of welding for the chap to make it good.





My advice would be to keep it clean, and apply a coat of waxoyl over the seam if you want a quick and easy way of holdling it back. Next step would be to clean all the paint off the area and use a rust killer, zinc/anti rust primer and a coat of seam sealer, then your usual paint finishing. Inside treat the box section with Waxoyl or similar.

[VertVega]

Hi guys, The drilling project has been completed successfully. Thanks to marsalek for the pictures and seat belt hint (marsalek, Please give my regards to "jk". His photos very very helpful.)
I have drilled on both sides even though there were no signs of the bubbling paint on the other side.

It is a rather straight forward process and quite easy. First lift the rear seat to reach the lower bolt of the seat belt. Removing it would give you better working space.



I had seat belt rolling back problem. So I decided to remove the plastic covering. Belt was folded as seen in the photo. Now the seat belt problem is also solved



Using a 6 mm drill head I made a hole through the first sheet and then the second sheet. Attn. second sheet is very thin.





This depth was still safe. No undesired holes.



I applied penetrating oil. It came between the sheet joints. For the next times I just have to remove the lower seat belt bolt and there we go.

[handyman]

Hello Vertvega, I admire your ability to drill holes in panel work, but if preventing rust corrosion is your aim, why have you not used a rust prevention treatment, along with a wax based sealant?

Penetrating oil is just that, it will not inhibit the formation of rust, especially in an area that is, by design, prone to attack. Oils oxidise over a period of time and will consequently aid rusting not prevent it.

Handyman

[VertVega]

Hello handyman, Sorry for not being clear on using correct terms ("Lost in Translation").

This substance is supposed to be anti corrosion. It claims to prevent rust and corrosion.
Reading from the product description:
"... paraffinic oil base that prevents rust and corrosion by displacing and sealing out moisture and by forming a continuous protective barrier against water and oxygen. Forms a thin invisible film never dries or becomes brittle. Does not have to be removed before welding, machining, or processed."

I hope this correct substance.

[VertVega]

It had a short straw (~7.5 cm) which I have replaced with a longer one (~11cm).

Check marsalek's message on page 1 (PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:31 am ). In the last photo there is a red circle drawn. That's where the drill tip reaches, the cavity.
Through that hole you can apply spray to the upper surface of the sheet. Under part can be handled from the rectangular rubber plug (rear tyre area).

[marsalek]

Hi, VertVega,

passed the greetings to "jk" ( http://www.citroeny.cz/forum/viewtopic. ... 4797#84797 )

Thanks for your nice photo story! I have forgotten another hint. You can also spray into the hole for the bolts holding the counterpart of the rear door lock. That place is by far not as good as the seat belt bolt, but you might reach better the most outside part of the cavity.

Karel

[handyman]

Hello Vertvega, the point I am making is, whether you already have the symptoms of rust or not, by spraying the area inside the box section with an anti-corrosion solution, and then using a wax based sealant, you will prevent AND STOP any rust that has or may form, thereby prolonging your love affair mit seine Auto.

The application of a penetrating or anti-rust solution is only part of the answer, and not a good one. If there is already corrosion, and you do not know that unless you can see it, the penetrative spray, will at best, creep into the steel platelet structure, but will not stop further rust forming. The existing rust will not be neutralized.

I have many years of repairing and restoring older rusting British motor vehicles. My recommendation has been found after many years of repairs and experience.

Ich kann schrieben diese im Deutsch, aber ich lerne Deutsch in die Schule viele Jahre so lange.

Handyman, oder Geiegenheitsabeiter

[VertVega]

Danke Handyman (oder Geiegenheitsabeiter)
The treatment is going on then I have to look for a wax based sealant from local dealers.
The rabbit hole/tunnel to the cavity is waiting there

Thanks,
VertVega

[myglaren]

Waxoyle's Website in various languages including German so may well be available there VertViga.

[handyman]

Ya!, fur das Rost, gebrauchen Jenolite und fur versiegein Waxoyl ist sehr gut. Sie konnen im Autogeschaft finden.

Geiegenheitsarbeiter, oder Handyman

[CitroJim]

I understood that Handyman, even though it was in German

On the strength of this I shall do my estate soon.

In the past I've used Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and liked it a lot. It's a bit more expensive than Waxoyl. The classic car fraternity speak very highly of it.

On my 205GTi it did a wonderful job. The spary lance that comes with each can does a good job of penetrating into nooks and crannies.

[handyman]

I thought you'd like that Jim! Does it add to the varied nature of our forum?

Looking at your signature, I think we'll have to start a RED Activa section!

Geiegenheitsarbeiter

[CitroJim]

I thought you'd like that Jim! Does it add to the varied nature of our forum?

Geiegenheitsarbeiter

I do and yes it certainly does I put a bit of French down in the Activa area over the weekend...