My first Citroen

This is the Forum for all your Citroen Technical Questions, Problems or Advice.

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aerodynamica
Donor 2023
Posts: 1300
Joined: 26 Dec 2007, 18:10
Location: Glasgow
Lexia Available: Yes
My Cars: 2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD VSX Mk1 Sinker A.K.A Slugmobile 13'
'Old Katy'
previous convictions: totaling 52litres of LHM in one go:
1968 ID19B 'Old Polly' Stellar white
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker Silver
1992 XM 2.0 SEi Turbo Manual Anthracite Grey
1982 CX 20 Pallas 'Old Goldy'
1993 XM 2.1 SD Auto Light blue
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker light Blue
1982 BX 16 TRS 'Cyril' Vallelunga Red
1995 Xantia 1.9 D SX Auto Dark green
1977 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Aphrodite' Regatta Blue
1982 GSA Pallas SE Silver Pearl
1980 CX 2000 Reflex Vallelunga Red
1978 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Prometheus' Midnight blue
1984 BX 14E 'Cecil the slugmobile' Maroon
1987 Fiat Panda 'the mighty panda'
x 98

Post by aerodynamica »

An old banger :lol:
Graeme M
2008 C5 Exclusive Tourer 2.0 HDi
TBONE
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Post by TBONE »

its a Citroen old dozen come into it :evil:
TBONE
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Post by TBONE »

watch your mouth pal
TBONE
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Post by TBONE »

its a deserved classic :cry:
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reblack68
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Post by reblack68 »

Is bagnole a tub?
Richard

No French cars of my own at present.
Care of a 1994 205 D.
TBONE
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Post by TBONE »

when you speak a good language il;lrsd
deian
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Post by deian »

Welsh has genders too. I like to mix them up on purpose for entertainment purposes.

Welcome Napoleon.

As for ur clutch, maybe the clutch job the owner of the car ur buying it from had a cheap one that was low quality.

If ur gonna run it on veggie oil, make sure ur diesel pump is a Bosch one NOT a Lucas one.
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Napoleon
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Post by Napoleon »

Ta,

Yes, it has the Bosch pump - I checked that first thing.

Do these Xantias run on waste veg oil as well as new?
Tim
2009 HV09 C5 2.2
1996 N679 Xantia TD VSX estate - sold August 2012
1995 M289 Xantia TD SX hatch - sold March 2012

Tarte au Citroen

2009 24" iMac 3.06GHZ
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Xaccers
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x 184

Post by Xaccers »

straight veg oil is best (costco sell 20L for £17 at the moment)
WVO can be used, but needs to be processed to remove particles, water and acids.
Jgra runs his on WVO, he's braver than me!
You can refine it fully to biodiesel, but that's not as nice as SVO.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)

DIY sphere tool
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Clogzz
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Post by Clogzz »

Bagnole is slang for ‘car’.
It’s pronounced ban-iol.

http://french.about.com/od/vocabulary/g/bagnole.htm
2002 C5 2.0i AL4 230,000 km 76372389
deian
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Post by deian »

Glad you took the step to 'experiment' in non desructive way. My zx ran fine with rapeseed oil.
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Mandrake
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Post by Mandrake »

Xac wrote:Check the colour of the LHM with a torch in the resevoir, if it's not green, replace it with hydroflush for around 1000 miles and then replace with new LHM.
Having been caught out by this myself, unfortunately it is NOT sufficient to simply shine a torch in the reservoir and see that it's green.

If the wrong type of oil has been put in, and that oil is heavier than LHM and sinks, you can end up with a thin film of LHM floating on top of the other stuff.

When I bought mine I looked in the top of the tank and it looked the normal green colour and it wasn't until a few months later when I drained the tank I found out it was about 90% RED and 10% green, and the two were not mixing.

Syphon a decent sample of the oil out into a glass jar and hold it up to the light, this will give a foolproof idea of what is in the tank.

In my case doing the jar test showed a layer of green LHM about 2mm thick floating on top of a large body of red oil. :evil:

It's taken me about 5 changes of LHM over the time I've had the car to finally get rid of most of that red oil, whatever it was...(we can't obtain hydraflush here)

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
TBONE
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Post by TBONE »

TBONE wrote:when you speak a good language il;lrsd
silly me I didnt know it was slang for car :oops:
vince
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x 13

Post by vince »

Napoleon :)

Dont sweat too much about the new Xantia thing....ive had a fair whack of experience with Xantia's....Im on my third now but used to work at GSF and sold parts for all cars, Xantia parts went out frequently enough but it was mostly spheres and not many clutches at all or clutch clips for that matter so once replaced it should last you years....

One good thing with Xantia's is that even if they have faults they still remain driveable unless you bust a pipe and lose the LHM or something drastic.

I can vouch for the fact that they are good cars and the amount of car you get for your money, they represent amazing value for money.

I too have a family and its our daily hack. Mine was advertised as mint but it did need front discs and pads and an LHM change. I dont do any work myself but it wasnt dear as those things arent complicated jobs.

Once you get it, give it a check over. Go through a checklist which can be found on here and list any faults you come across. Price the bits up and then plan what needs doing.

The main thing is that parts are on the whole very cheap for the diesels....apart from height correctors but they are one of those jobs that once done and the pain subsides will last you years.

Im sure you will get along fine :wink:
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Old-Guy
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Location: Gloucestershire
My Cars: 2011 Grand C4 Picasso VTR+ 1.6HDi in Kyanos Blue
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
x 17

Post by Old-Guy »

Napoleon

Welcome to the forum and as a new Xantia owner. If it's not the most comfortable car you've ever driven, the suspension needs some attention! :D

I bought my first Citroen (N plate 95 Xantia 1.9TD Sx estate) a couple of years ago. It too was low mileage with full stealer service history; meaning the filters, oil and coolant were changed on schedule.

You'll find help on most jobs already posted here on the forum. You'll see lots of rude comments about the BoL (Book of Lies) a.k.a. the Haynes manual. It's not so much Lies as Omissions. Nonetheless, it's a a lot better than nothing. Try your local charity shops...

You're lucky, the cam belt has been changed(?) - check the service history shows that it really has been. If in doubt (item not ticked), if you ask nicely, many dealers will supply a copy of a fairly recent invoice for jobs like that.

I suggest that unless you are sure that the job has been done [in the last X years] you should:
Change the coolant [every 2 yrs] - essential to prevent corrosion killing the engine.
Thermostat [6] - they slowly get tired with age and then don't open fully.
Replace the auxiliary (alternator and hydraulic pump) drive belt [4]
Replace all 6 spheres [4-5]
Change the LHM [2] and then bleed the brakes (essential!)
If you change the brake pads, beware that the pistons have to be 'wound' (rotated) back, not forced back.

None of these is difficult or even time-consuming.

Change the oil and filter at 6,000 mile intervals - buy your oil and filter from a local motor factor (half the price of a high street chain).

You'll have noticed a lot of Xantias of all ages still on the road - with a little TLC and regular maintenance they last a lot better than most of their contemporaries. Their 'complexity' (hydraulics) is a myth - they terrify most mechanics simply because they are different.

I've started a guide based on my personal experience.
2011 Grand C4 Picasso VTR+ 1.6HDi in Kyanos Blue
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
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