jgra1 blog

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 05 May 2010, 12:04

yep I think so Jim..

will take a pic later

Post by **CitroJim** » 05 May 2010, 12:11

Your gearbox must be made of a new high-resistance alloy John

Is the bad bolt hole the opposite side of where the gearbox would split apart. I'm wondering if it's a high resistance where the main casing bolts to the bellhousing causing the issue...

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 10 May 2010, 15:36

could be Jim

well.. recent things...
Xantia blew both dipped beams within a few hours of each other

On the weekend I went up to Cambridge to grab some bodywork parts for the xant.. dissapointed as the green wing up there was destroyed, the bonnet was only a bit better than the one one my car as was the bumper.. both need work and it's a long day there and back.. worse still the breakers told me on the phone they were open till 2.30 saturdays, and i arrived at 12.40 to find them about to shut!
anyway, all fitted on the car Sunday morning, and its starting to look like it once did..

The EM light came on, M25 anticlockwise early in the 250 mile trip, this time i knew what it was telling me

I duly ignored it for the rest of the day.. it came on more and more, as expected... by the end of the trip the car was almost dead... next day I drove 10 more miles so I could show my partner how a fuel filter was to be changed in case this happens to her..(There was one in the boot the whole time)

I did a tiny bit on the coupe.. namely fitting the vapouriser in the engine bay, where the air filter used to sit

VFR**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] has a new battery, GPX has a new battery, an expensive 2 months so far...

finally, I am moving to a cottage... and there is a piece of land about 9m x 9m just for me

it needs a large shed, and I am contemplating building it from scratch

woodwork is really a weakness, as is building design

so there will be some questions to follow

addo · Post by **addo** » 11 May 2010, 00:15

I've got a shed about 9×9 metres. It's where the ID and Spitfire live, among other cars and parts.

If you can build on the whole area, putting down a raised concrete slab first would be a great start. Aim to be 4-5 inches above natural ground. Someone with better knowledge of UK soils and freeze/thaw conditions would have to comment on flex joints in the slab.

Allow four portal frames out of universal beam, spaced at three metre intervals. Copy someone else's shed that has withstood heavy snow loads, for beam sizing. Like the slab, this is a dear part of the exercise.

You can then use stamped/rolled sections for the purlins and girts. Clad your roof first, then the northern wall.

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 11 May 2010, 06:06

ahh.. the good news is i have a concrete base.. not completely level but...

the bad news, planning law seems to say that if you build a shed in UK, 15 square meters is your floor space.. :O .. so i need to build within that really.. means i can sell or move the shed with me (property is rented) ... now very glad I didnt win any big wooden buildlings on ebay .. I thought I checked the planning but missed this obvious restriction..

So, i have some timber already.. and a max size.. if I want to hold a decent sized car and still have space to have a work bench then I am looking at about 2.5m x 6 .. i can go to 4m vertical, so there is storage space available in the apex, and space for the engine crane to rise if I leave a gap..

Post by **xantia_v6** » 11 May 2010, 06:23

jgra1 wrote: the bad news, planning law seems to say that if you build a shed in UK, 15 square meters is your floor space.. :O .. so i need to build within that really..

Are you sure about that? On housing estates near me they still build double garages with the more expensive houses.

Post by **myglaren** » 11 May 2010, 06:46

Call it a barn or warehouse!

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 11 May 2010, 06:57

hmm I saw this http://www.diydata.com/planning/planreg ... _rules.php

but now I think it's out of date..

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/englan ... buildings/
newer guidelines seem to be :

Planning Permission

Rules governing outbuildings apply to sheds, greenhouses and garages as well as other ancillary garden buildings such as swimming pools, ponds, sauna cabins, kennels, enclosures (including tennis courts) and many other kinds of structure for a purpose incidental to the enjoyment of the dwellinghouse.

Other rules relate to the installation of a satellite dish, the erection of a new dwelling or the erection or provision of fuel storage tanks.

Under new regulations that came into effect on 1 October 2008 outbuildings are considered to be permitted development, not needing planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions:

*
No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation.
*
Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof.
*
Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse.
*
No verandas, balconies or raised platforms.
*
No more than half the area of land around the "original house"* would be covered by additions or other buildings.
*
In National Parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage Sites the maximum area to be covered by buildings, enclosures, containers and pools more than 20 metres from house to be limited to 10 square metres.
*
On designated land* buildings, enclosures, containers and pools at the side of properties will require planning permission.
*
Within the curtilage of listed buildings any outbuilding will require planning permission.

So maybe I can still go for it

20ft by 14ft is what I think I need

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 11 May 2010, 09:09

http://nowt-john.blogspot.com/2010/05/blog-post.html

shows the land, that is the flatest bit but still there is a drop that needs sorting.. excuse the rubbish yellow frame quickly drawn thing

addo · Post by **addo** » 11 May 2010, 09:57

Just make sure there's a life drawing class on, every time a Council inspector calls by. That should smooth things over!

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 11 May 2010, 10:46

it's going to be expensive to do this from scratch.. even sourcing second hand wood... hmmm..

ok argos do a 20' by 10' new for £1000 .. this doesn't have walls and ceiling held together with OSB board (which I was going to do) .. i.e. its just overlap on battons.. should I do same? ..

strength and insulation (sound and heat) will suffer...

Post by **CitroJim** » 11 May 2010, 21:04

jgra1 wrote:
strength and insulation (sound and heat) will suffer...

Cor! what a lovely project John... Making me jealous now....

A few years ago I helped a friend build a shed to house his passion for vintage wireless, guitars and amateur radio.

We started off with a normal enough shed although it was more designed as a summer-house than a standard shed. Despite that, it was just a normal shiplap type construction.

We lined it out with rockwool insulation planks and 5/8" tongue and groove on the walls and roof.

We then fitted a night storage heater and through three winders it's been lovely and warm and habitable despite sub-zero temperatures. The insulation has proved good enough that we can play guitars through a Fender Twin Reverb with the volume well up without disturbing the neighbours...

Total cost was about £3,500 all-told. This included £600 to have the electrical supply inspected and certified.

If you don't line and insulate a wooden shed, it'll be a bit damp in the winter and rather cold...

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 12 May 2010, 16:20

I am hopeful mine will be cheaper Jim

enjoying thinking about it and sketching bits of it badly at my desk.

Will make a proper plan in AutoCAD over the next few days for fun

I dont really work in 3D much, but we'll see... should end up with a nice set of ingredients and where they all go, to make a shed that can be taken down and sold or moved without too much effort..

KP · Post by KP » 13 May 2010, 07:45

The best way then to have one that can be moved easily is to have a splitting roof line and some way to lock the side panels all together.

Coulduse lots of silicone to keep the joins snug and its easy enough to remove as well and water tight

Thinking about it bolt holes and a few large bolts along each joint should be more than enough to keep it together

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 13 May 2010, 09:06

yep bolt together walls Will

should make more sense as soon as I can start drawing the plans and then finding the problems