well.. I went over to the stricken car.. and it started and run as before.. smokey but sweet sounding really..
I removed all 4 injectors and brought them home.. as an afterthought really i threw 4 other unchecked bosch ones in, and it sounded like a bag of nails... at least one or two duff injectors..
made me realise how nice the car sounds with the fitted injectors in, and makes me wonder if there is anything wrong with any of them... thinking now that something is over/under fueling the car, all four cylinders being affected..
but what....
have tried no airfilter, no turbo, (think) i have disconnected electric the cold-advance... (could this be stuck on, even though unplugged?)
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Hi John, sorry I got a bit lost in your story - is this a Bosch pump we're talking about or the Lucas?
The Bosch is set for fast idle as default. The mechanism is used to reduce the fast idle once the engine has reached sufficient temperature so disconnecting it (or it failing as mine has) results in permanent fast idle.
The Bosch is set for fast idle as default. The mechanism is used to reduce the fast idle once the engine has reached sufficient temperature so disconnecting it (or it failing as mine has) results in permanent fast idle.
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hi mike, sorry my postings are a bit all over the place

i have a old style bosch pump, injectors and pipes,
from a running 306 (car 1),
now all fitted with to another 306 (was lucas) (car2)
the destination car (2) now black smokes steadily on throttle, start up, boost etc..
having spoken to Jim.. there is an electronic timing device, that advances to help starting and initial running, (I have wired this up from the glows)
and a cable fast idle device (from the waxstat) - this isnt connected at all.
J

i have a old style bosch pump, injectors and pipes,
from a running 306 (car 1),
now all fitted with to another 306 (was lucas) (car2)
the destination car (2) now black smokes steadily on throttle, start up, boost etc..
having spoken to Jim.. there is an electronic timing device, that advances to help starting and initial running, (I have wired this up from the glows)
and a cable fast idle device (from the waxstat) - this isnt connected at all.
J
Last edited by jgra1 on 17 Apr 2009, 13:55, edited 1 time in total.
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Jim ..hmm
Will, yep.. unless there's something wrong with the [my] wiring... I had the pump with only 1 ingntion live going to the two small yellow parallel wires for the solenoid...
I wonder if the solenoid isnt fully opening? the car is a bit sluggish as well as smokey...
I will grab a vid of the car over the weekend...
the engine sounds really nice, and moving the timing pump makes it stall (retard) or begin to knock (advance) but no matter where the pump goes, it smokes...
Will, yep.. unless there's something wrong with the [my] wiring... I had the pump with only 1 ingntion live going to the two small yellow parallel wires for the solenoid...
I wonder if the solenoid isnt fully opening? the car is a bit sluggish as well as smokey...
I will grab a vid of the car over the weekend...
the engine sounds really nice, and moving the timing pump makes it stall (retard) or begin to knock (advance) but no matter where the pump goes, it smokes...
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Hi John
I know very little about pump timing etc but would you have black smoke and the engine sounding/feeling sluggish if the cambelt was a tooth out
Would it help if you wrote down a list for yourself what makes a diesel black smoke..sometimes i may miss the "bleedin" obvious cos it doesnt register in the brain until i see it in black and white
Colin
I know very little about pump timing etc but would you have black smoke and the engine sounding/feeling sluggish if the cambelt was a tooth out


Would it help if you wrote down a list for yourself what makes a diesel black smoke..sometimes i may miss the "bleedin" obvious cos it doesnt register in the brain until i see it in black and white

Colin
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hi Colin, yes I believe your right there.
Jim and I have been over ther black smoke issue a bit.. but if you look back a few postings, i have put three links up that help with some causes
I rechecked the timing (the cambelt had to come off to change pumps) but after putting it back and running car, i checked it all again.. spot on

Jim and I have been over ther black smoke issue a bit.. but if you look back a few postings, i have put three links up that help with some causes

I rechecked the timing (the cambelt had to come off to change pumps) but after putting it back and running car, i checked it all again.. spot on

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fixed!
dont believe it....
the EGR was being held open !! smoke coming the wrong way out of the inlet manifold was the give away.. pull the vac pipe to EGR and it all stopped!
Car is now perfect, fast and the tiniest hint of smoke occasionally!
so pleased after all the effort for what should have been a simple job

big thanks to Jim as always

I dont really understand why the car seemed normal with the lucas on, if the EGR was malfunctioning.. unless the control circuit failed as a coincidence..
A bit of injector knock was present for the final restart, but that cleared.
The black smoke was replaced by blueish, and I was able to dial that out by correcting the pump timing... which seems close to spot on now.
Car flies and doesnt feel any slower as a bosch.. final act was to pour 30L of WVO in, and give the keys back and race the Xanita home on curvy sunny empty roads

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minor news
The VFR**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] has a new regulator... it seems now to be pushing to much voltage :O the battery also seems unable to charge.. I think that the reg wen first and a few too many recharges have killed the 1 year old battery..
I will post some voltages over the weekend, of the old v new regulator and their effect on the [a] battery.
The chevy has been driven on the road for the 1st time in 1 1/2 years
its quite scary on my own, sitting on the left, on small A roads, with 2.5 meters of truck hanging out to the right !
anyway, it passed an MOT
the emissions test suggested it was very lean, yet I think it smells rich?
One more thing, I really want to get the satellite dish mounted on the roof of the van, and to be able to operate it from the cab... this system normally costs about £2000 ! that inludes a selft tracking detector thingmejig, but's thats all way beyond me..
All i want is a simple pan / tilt system that lifts and twists the dish (180° pan +/-)
to that end I have lots of aluminim hollow tube, elec window switches, tons of sat cable, a satellite strength meter, wiper motors, and a few ideas...
but i need help
an easier way would be to utilise an existing pan/tilt mechanism... to take apart something that already moves in the two axis's. eg Security camera...
a nice tilt mech could also be found in an electric car seat ... but that means i still need pan...
any thoughts folks ? i dont mind the idea of building my own, but there will be issues...
the dish needs to be slow to rise and pan, for accuracy reasons.. I could acheive this with a potentiometer ? cut the voltage a bit for fine tuning..
it needs to stay in a position once there.. stepper motors shouldn't budge? but the gearing of the mech may also help this..
I can add a weatherstation wind direction vane to the system, which will remotely give me the direction the dish is pointing
I can set up a camera on the roof to see what it does to (the cam is useful as a reversing aid etc)
John
The VFR**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] has a new regulator... it seems now to be pushing to much voltage :O the battery also seems unable to charge.. I think that the reg wen first and a few too many recharges have killed the 1 year old battery..
I will post some voltages over the weekend, of the old v new regulator and their effect on the [a] battery.
The chevy has been driven on the road for the 1st time in 1 1/2 years

anyway, it passed an MOT


One more thing, I really want to get the satellite dish mounted on the roof of the van, and to be able to operate it from the cab... this system normally costs about £2000 ! that inludes a selft tracking detector thingmejig, but's thats all way beyond me..
All i want is a simple pan / tilt system that lifts and twists the dish (180° pan +/-)
to that end I have lots of aluminim hollow tube, elec window switches, tons of sat cable, a satellite strength meter, wiper motors, and a few ideas...
but i need help

an easier way would be to utilise an existing pan/tilt mechanism... to take apart something that already moves in the two axis's. eg Security camera...
a nice tilt mech could also be found in an electric car seat ... but that means i still need pan...
any thoughts folks ? i dont mind the idea of building my own, but there will be issues...
the dish needs to be slow to rise and pan, for accuracy reasons.. I could acheive this with a potentiometer ? cut the voltage a bit for fine tuning..
it needs to stay in a position once there.. stepper motors shouldn't budge? but the gearing of the mech may also help this..
I can add a weatherstation wind direction vane to the system, which will remotely give me the direction the dish is pointing
I can set up a camera on the roof to see what it does to (the cam is useful as a reversing aid etc)
John