Help Xantia imobolised, what have I done

Tell us your ongoing tales and experiences with your French car here. Post pictures of your car here as well.

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wheeler
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Unread post by wheeler »

citrojim wrote:Ummm. I have a spare keypad here and I know the code that last unlocked the ECU it worked with. The evenings are getting darker, so :-k
It still wont work though (unless of course a4gom's keypad itself is faulty), the original code on a4gom's car would still need to be entered on any keypad that is plugged into it.
The service that these guys offer is really only for forgotten/lost codes, all it tells you is the code that last unlocked the ECU. ie it tells you the code of the ECU of the same car it was plugged into so you can then re enter that same code into the original ECU.
Have the basics been checked on this car ? all fuses ok ? main earths ok ? also worth looking at the 30 pin brown connectors on the inner wings as these can cause keypad problems.

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CitroJim
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Unread post by CitroJim »

No, I was thinking of how a lost/forgotten code might be extracted from a keypad for future reference.

I like a challange like that :D

uncle buck
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Unread post by uncle buck »

I'm guessing that the current code will be programmed into an EEprom inside the keypad, they will read the EEprom & get the code.

red_dwarfers
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Unread post by red_dwarfers »

Im now tempted to send my keypad off to one of these places to retrieve my code so I can possibly put the immobilser back into use. Theres still always the 'if' factor if things don't work out and whether it really is worth it.
I don't know!

uncle buck
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Unread post by uncle buck »

If the keypad does use an EEprom to store the code then it should just be like getting the code for a car radio....can the keypad be taken apart to see the workings / circuit board inside or is it a sealed unit?

andmcit
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Unread post by andmcit »

I may be coming late into this and likely in danger of repeating someone's
previous point but surely the situation as I understand it, is the correct code
has been used correctly throughout and as far as I know the green light is
on so whyis everyone going on about the immobiliser!? That's only the half
of it...

is there fuel, is there a glow plug circuit working, is there a timer etc. I'm
not saying I know owt, but removal of the back lights may have as much
help as removing the key pad!

I like the comment about sneaking out and setting it alight BTW! Gave me
a real chuckle!! Has he tried the AA Homestart... :D

Andrew

jgra1
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Unread post by jgra1 »

I took my pump off the spare engine I have here, my third pump removal but first on a xant.. what a nightmare!

Hyd pump bracket and aux belt tensoner spring all wrapped up together, no access to bottom Inj Pump nut at all.. really was a pig :(

Ended up taking pump of with it's cradle

anyway, gearbox / Inj pump / AC pump / Hyd Pump / Alternator all off in about 1 hour, but on a free standing engine.. Seemed trickier than I thought..

But, Inj pump needs to come off the remove armour...

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a4gom
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Unread post by a4gom »

been round again tonight and it still won't start, enter the code now and we get both the red and green lights on, turn ign off, red flashing back on, red solid, enter code, red and green it appear we can do this as many times as we want it doesn't lock out?

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Xaccers
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Unread post by Xaccers »

Are these threads any help?

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/ ... tm?t=21958
http://forums.preloved.co.uk/fuseaction ... cb1d6.html
http://forums.preloved.co.uk/fuseaction ... 1e759.html

If they're anything to go by, there's a break between the keypad and the pump.

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CitroJim
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Unread post by CitroJim »

Xac wrote:Are these threads any help?

http://forums.preloved.co.uk/fuseaction ... cb1d6.html
Good find Xac :D

That one has some very interesting possibilities :D Worth having a try and also, trying to change the code using the normal procedure. It's definitely worth checking one button is not jammed down. I once saw a keypad with a very worn "1" key and it had started to break up. Others I've seen with a button or two totally missing.
Xac wrote: If they're anything to go by, there's a break between the keypad and the pump.
Yes, the imfamous "IC01" multiplug that hides high up in the drivers inner wing under the mudshield. Everything electrical on a Xantia runs through this connector :twisted: And not forgetting the other famous electrical gremln, the loom that runs under the rad :twisted: This too carries just about everything!!!!

wheeler
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Unread post by wheeler »

If both lights are on this means there is no comunication between the keypad & the ECU. There could be a few reasons for this. A tripped inertia switch will bring on both lights. It could be broken wires/high resistance between the keypad & ECU, the ECU itself may be missing a feed or earth. Have you checked the main earths yet or the inner wing connectors ?

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a4gom
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Unread post by a4gom »

Have to admit we haven't checked any wiring yet, I've checked the keypad end out, connection and checked all the buttons are working. The garage my dad uses are going to have a look next time they are passing but if its still there tonight i'll have a good look at the connections.

andmcit
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Unread post by andmcit »

IF THE IGNITION IS LEFT ON FOR ABOUT 10 OR 30 MINUTES THE
IMMOBILISER SHOULD RESET (damn left the caps lock on...)

Try this as the code may be easily re-inputted then and the problem isn't
a problem any more. I did this a week ago on an Xm where I was sure I'd
inputted the correct code but the car disagreed with me x3 times! :oops:

Andrew

red_dwarfers
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Unread post by red_dwarfers »

So Andrew, do you mean reset as it able to put the correct code in or reset as in the code goes back to factory 1111?

andmcit
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Unread post by andmcit »

Hi Kev, you can input your specific unique code that worked before making
a fist of keying it in and being locked out!

Andrew