Help my engine managment lights on!!

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Post by wheeler »

I mean the red brake lights on the back of the car that light up when you press the brake. The ECU also uses the info from the brake light switch for the running of the engine. Are the brake lights comming on when they should or are they staying on all the time when the ignition is switched on ?
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Post by Hayley*1 »

Ive just checked the brake lights and they are working as they should be, just lighting up when pressed..
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Post by citronut »

as i said earlyer have all the induction sensors cleaned with carb cleaner, they will more than likely be sooted up
regards malcolm
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Post by addo »

If you can get the battery tested by an impartial agent, it may be worthwhile. This requires "load testing" of the battery, and they should use an ECU minding device on the car while your battery is disconnected for the test. It should be free, too.

I've seen multiple "faults" indicated on a newish Alfa that simply went away with a healthy battery.

The other possibility is, that money spent on having the error codes read at a reputable Cit dealer could be a good investment.
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Post by citronut »

trouble is if a indy garage are offering a free gattery test, then they are out to sell you a new one
regards malcolm
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Post by Hayley*1 »

Are the induction sensors eay to find? maybe its a good idea for me to get a haynes manual..!!

Do think then that a citroen garage may read them codes different?
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Post by CitroJim »

Hayley*1 wrote: Do think then that a citroen garage may read them codes different?
Yes, if the Citroen garage use the official Lexia diagnostic tool it will give vastly more information concerning the problem than a generic code reader might.

I'm in agreement with others here in that the diagnosis needs to be made by someone who understands these engines, has access to the pukka diagnostics and knows how to interpret what the diagnostics is saying properly. No diagnostics, not even a Lexia, gives answers neatly served up on a plate :)

I'm not sure a Haynes manual will help much Hayley. We don't call then the BoL (Book of Lies) on here for no good reason :lol:

Someone on here will soon tell you where the sensor in question is. It certainly sounds like a sensor (or the wiring to it). You say you had the turbo trunking looked at the other day. I think the sensor is in the vicinity of those so in doing the original job, the sensor in question may have been damaged, disturbed, or left disconnected perhaps? It'll not be the first time - I've done it myself :roll:

Hope it's soon sorted out for you...
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Post by CitroJim »

Hayley, where are you?

If you're anywhere near me in North Bucks, I can give your car a once-over on a Lexia, as can Malcolm down in Sussex...
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Post by addo »

citronut wrote:trouble is if a indy garage are offering a free gattery test, then they are out to sell you a new one
Must be a local thing. :wink: My bloke knows that lying isn't worth it, figuring that honesty in appraisal will see most people come back exactly when the battery is needed...

I suspect UK batteries die in winter - heat kills ours. Three years under the bonnet of a modern car is pretty typical, then a cell or two starts to fail and you lose depth of charge.

Cheers, Adam.
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Post by Hayley*1 »

Hi,

Im in Norfolk so nowhere near either of you guys but thanks ever so much for the offer thats realy kind of you both,

perhaps ill pass on the haynes manual then... :lol:
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Post by wheeler »

The air intake temp sensor & the airflow meter are combined in the same unit, if you spray this with carb cleaner or similar it will probably damage it. Only the 110bhp engines have a boost pressure sensor/MAP sensor.
Have the faults now been cleared ? How is it now running ?

If you read the brake switch fault with lexia it will say something along the lines of: Intermittant fault brake pedal signal cohearance/not plausible.
This means either the brake is being pressed at the same time as the throttle or the ECU thinks the brakes are being pressed when they shouldnt or doesent see the brakes beeing applied when it thinks they should. This fault will put the engine into limp home mode. the fault is usually caused by an intermittantly faulty brake light switch or it not being secure in its holder/incorectly adjusted.

Everyone must have been driving behind loads of 206's & picassos with the brake lights stuck on.
My advice & the cheapest 1st step would be to have the brake light switch replaced & adjusted corectly.
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Re: Help my engine managment lights on!!

Post by wheeler »

Hayley*1 wrote: the engine sounds fine and it starts but it then conks out after a few miles!!!
Was just re reading this post, when you say it just conks out after a few miles do you mean the engine just stops completely or do you mean it looses power after a few miles ? If you mean the engine stops ignore my last post.
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Post by Hayley*1 »

It completely dies on me, esp in the most awkward places like bends on country roads which is not good!!

Im not driving it at all at the moments because of this,
the codes havnt been cleared..
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Post by wheeler »

Cant understand why anyone wouldnt clear the fault codes for you.
The only sensor i can think of on an HDi that would cause the engine to cut out completely is the engine speed/crankshaft sensor, this would most likely have logged a fault.
In your case i would say the fault is due to a loss of fuel pressure somewhere.
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Post by Hayley*1 »

I think its best if i take it somewhere that uses a lexia tool then, ill try and get it done tom thanks again for all the advice you have all gave me
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