Coolant change

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 27 Aug 2008, 20:59

Right as I am about to embark on a cambelt change as many of you know, the water pump and coolant is being done at the same time.

Just a few questions:

Have looked throught the BoL and it seems fairly simple. Am a bit confused about bleed screws though. It says un do them to aid draining. When are they supposed to be screwed back up? And is fresh coolant supposed to emerge from them at any point?

Can anyone maybe run through the process a bit clearer than the BoL? Is there anything that it doesn't mention that I ought to know?

Do I need to make a header tank? What can I use as a suitable seal for it?

I would like to use distilled water, where can I buy some from as GSF only do deionised.

What is Antigel? I'm led to believe its a form of antifreeze? Is this correct

Sorry for the questions but I'm slowly gaining Citroen knowledge

Thanks

jmd · Post by **jmd** » 28 Aug 2008, 01:50

Firstly - is the car a HDI Xantia or is it a C5. because I believe Citroen recomment their own brand of coolant (already mixed) for the C5. In my Xantia I always use good old Blue Ethyl Glycol. mixed with deionised or distilled water (they are the same) mix is 50% 50%. I have never needed a header tank when changing the coolant in either the C5 or Xantia. As regards the bleed screw(s) - follow the hose from the radiator and on the top hose you will find a cap similar to the cap on the valve of your tyres - this is your bleed screw & yes when filling continue till the cooland appears at the bleed screw outlet replace the cap, press firmly or squeeze on the radiator hoses several times, after filling. This helps to get rid of any air locks, but I have never had a problem with air locks on either the Xantia or the C5. Im not familar with Anti Gel, except to say that it is an anti-freese, and probably should not be mixed with any other Anti Freeze. Flush out your radiator with a garden hose before refilling & keep an eye on your coolant level for a few days afterwards. There is, or should be, a tap at the base of the radiator (left hand side facing the radiator) to facilitate emptying your radiator

KP · Post by KP » 28 Aug 2008, 08:04

Flush the rad both ways to get the most out of it and if you can flush the block as well. it will look like crud if this is the 2nd cambelt change as in my experience the dealers never swap the pumps as part of the change or even do it on schedule as per the service book

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 28 Aug 2008, 13:52

Don't worry too much about getting the procedure right, draining can be accelerated but not necessary if you're in no rush. We didn't use a header tank or the top bleed nipple (it broke at the first touch) and had no airlock problems.

If you don't want to use de-ionised, I've collected some condensed water from a fridge unit you can have.

I'm hosting this weekend and will be pretty well occupied elsewhere otherwise I'd come over and assist but if you get seriously stuck - feel free to call and I'll do what I can. It should be plain sailing though, good luck.

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 28 Aug 2008, 20:51

Thanks fellas. Another question regarding the cambelt change (Sorry!)

According to the BoL to remove the crankshaft pulley, the aux belt has to come off. It doesn't mention removing the driveshaft to do this? Is it even necessary?

oscarloco · Post by **oscarloco** » 01 Sep 2008, 20:23

Toby_HDi wrote:Thanks fellas. Another question regarding the cambelt change (Sorry!)

According to the BoL to remove the crankshaft pulley, the aux belt has to come off. It doesn't mention removing the driveshaft to do this? Is it even necessary?

Hi. I'm not familiar with your engine but I don't think it's neccesary. Auxiliary belts are routine maintenance replaceable parts so they have to be easy to remove.

oscarloco · Post by **oscarloco** » 01 Sep 2008, 21:20

Toby_HDi wrote:Thanks fellas. Another question regarding the cambelt change (Sorry!)

According to the BoL to remove the crankshaft pulley, the aux belt has to come off. It doesn't mention removing the driveshaft to do this? Is it even necessary?

Hi. I'm not familiar with your engine but I don't think it's neccesary. Auxiliary belts are routine maintenance replaceable parts so they have to be easy to remove.

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 14 Dec 2008, 16:36

Right the time is approching to do this. I am waiting on an aux belt (have been sent wrong size twice) and then I can refit everything and fill with coolant. What is the best way of going about this with regards to mixing methods (mix first before filling or pour in anti-freeze then water), bleed screws, flushing and making sure there is no air in the system. Anyone have a particular method of filling a Xantia that works a treat.

I know this seems a silly question but I just realised I have never actually changed the coolant on a car before (never had one long enough with the exception of the Xantia)

Thanks

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 14 Dec 2008, 21:37

I put the necessary amount of anti-freeze in first followed by distilled water, fill to the brim, undo each of the bleed nipples until coolant flows then top up gain etc. Refit the cap, get the engine up to temperature with the fans running then switch off and undo each of the bleed nipples again using the built up pressure to push out any air locks. Allow the engine to cool overnight then top up again.

Alternatively use the correct Citroën tool I picked up for free recently

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 16 Dec 2008, 20:17

Thanks DickieG. Will give that method a go using a home-made header tank.