My Xantia HDi

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 08 Dec 2008, 18:22

citrojim wrote:Mike,

I've sent a PM to Toby offring some assistance.

I'm thinking here. You and Toby are near each other. Two birds with one stone perhaps? Sort Toby and give some time to your issues as well?

Thoughts?

Count me in though I'm hoping I won't have any "issues" left on mine by then. 8)

Post by **CitroJim** » 08 Dec 2008, 19:16

MikeT wrote: Count me in though I'm hoping I won't have any "issues" left on mine by then. 8)

I will Mike. It would be rude not to pop in and at least say hello. I too hope you're all resolved and running around in a red Xantia!

What's the current progress?

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 09 Dec 2008, 13:34

Right, some success this morning. I managed to get the engine supported on the jack and have removed the timing covers. I also removed the lower casting ready for the new one to go on.

I only have limited time as I work afternoons so am going to work on it every morning and get a little done at a time.

I did try to lock the cam and crank/flywheel too this morning but I could not for the life of me locate either hole. The flywheel one looks like it's going to be a pig.

Am feeling much better about it all now though. One thing though, with a lack of torque wrench should I be ok as long as I do everything up nice and tight?

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 09 Dec 2008, 15:41

Hi Toby, glad you've overcome your setback and got back at it, seems like you're reaping the rewards now. Your confidence will soar further once you've visually identified the flywheel hole. It's located between the block and starter motor. Get a bright torch or light and look vertically down the far side of the starter motor where it mates with the flywheel/gearbox housing.

I wasn't able to torque the engine mounting bolts due to restricted access but as long as they're F-tight I'm not worried. The crank pulley bolt requires all my strength and more using a long torque wrench and even then I could only manage 10-15 degrees of the full recommended angle

I did add a good dose of threadlock though and will take a leaf out of Jim's book and mark the surfaces for easy verfication it's stayed tight.

Post by **CitroJim** » 09 Dec 2008, 16:50

Well done Toby. You'll be able to do the job now, no worries at all

Just a word of caution on doing up the bolts. FT is all very well into steel but not into aluminium alloy. If you go FT into that material you'll strip the thread, no question about it.

Do it up tightly but don't go silly. Use a spanner rather than a socket with a long handle. It is harder (but not impossible) to over-tighten a bolt using a spanner but so easy with a socket.

As Mike says, paint a line on the bolts and recheck them after a couple of hundred miles.

If you have a torque wrench, practice doing up some bolts at the recommended torque and then do it with a spanner to get the "feel" of the torque value you're applying. With use and practice you'll find you can set the required torque without a torque wrench using your familiar tools with no problem.

Bottom line, if it feels tight enough, it generally will be.

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 09 Dec 2008, 19:54

citrojim wrote:Just a word of caution on doing up the bolts. FT is all very well into steel but not into aluminium alloy. If you go FT into that material you'll strip the thread, no question about it.

OMG, sorry Toby. No, I certainly didn't mean F-tight in that sense. I'll retract the F, just tight will do.

Post by **CitroJim** » 09 Dec 2008, 19:58

Mike, a very good way of getting the crank bolt even tighter is to use your foot.

On Saturday, we managed to get another flat on an already very tight crank bolt by me laying on my back with my foot on the T bar and pressing as hard as I could whilst braced against someone else!

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 09 Dec 2008, 21:34

citrojim wrote:On Saturday, we managed to get another flat on an already very tight crank bolt by me laying on my back with my foot on the T bar and pressing as hard as I could whilst braced against someone else!

I missed a good photo opportunity there

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 10 Dec 2008, 13:32

Engine all locked up this morning and the old cambelt belt is off. That flywheel hole was a pain but now I've done it it would be easier to do again.

Hoping to replace the tensioner, pulley and waterpump tomorrow morning. I haven't drained the coolant so will see what condition its in.

Battling on and winning slowly....off to work now

Post by **CitroJim** » 10 Dec 2008, 13:38

Toby_HDi wrote: Battling on and winning slowly....off to work now

Excellent Toby

Well done. All the hard work is done now.

Delighted but diappointed that I'll not be coming over and saying hello any thime soon

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 11 Dec 2008, 13:29

citrojim wrote:Delighted but diappointed that I'll not be coming over and saying hello any thime soon

Will have to be arranged sometime. I know I am up your way in the suimmer. Got to go to Sywell for an aerobatics flight (yes I will be taking controls

)

Update for this morning:

An excellent morning...

Yesterday morning finished with the old belt off. This morning I have removed the tensioner and pulley and waterpump and replaced them, the new belt is on and tensioned up. On turning the engine it is running straight and true. The covers are also back on. Not much to do now before I turn the key and cross my fingers.

I don't know if my coolant is using the strange orange anti-freeze or if it is just exceptionally dirty. It was a horrible browny-orange rusty colour. I shall be flushing the system throughly anyway and I have some Citroen Antigel to go in.

When things go right, a Citroen is enjoyable to work on.

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 18 Dec 2008, 12:13

After being messed around a bit by GSF, who sent the wrong size belt - twice, I now have fitted the new aux belt (had to go to Citroen)

Everything is back together and she is now sitting on the ground on all 4 wheels.

I've drained the radiator but I can't get to the block drain plug as the suspension is depressurised so I can't get underneath. I think most of it came out the block when I removed the old waterpump. Means I also have a jack stuck under the car until I can start her up and raise the suspension

I found the bleed screws on the matrix outlet and the thermostat which I think are the only two on the HDi. Anyone confirm? Will it be ok to flush even though I haven't removed the block drain plug?

All that remains for me to do is to flush the system, refill and bleed. Then it's all done.

Post by **red_dwarfers** » 18 Dec 2008, 19:03

I've had the problem of getting a jack stuck under the car before when in the process of lowering the car off its axle stands. In that situation I borrowed a scissor jack from my parents V******l Astra, cranked it up and collected the jack

Toby_HDi · Post by **Toby_HDi** » 20 Dec 2008, 12:36

Tried to fill her with coolant this morning (see thread in Citroen area) which meant having to start her.

SHE STARTS!!!!! Sounds slightly rough but I'm putting that down to being sat for two weeks in the cold without being started. Am pleased on that front, just the coolant issue to sort now and I can drive her again

Post by **CitroJim** » 20 Dec 2008, 17:33

Toby_HDi wrote: SHE STARTS!!!!! Sounds slightly rough but I'm putting that down to being sat for two weeks in the cold without being started. Am pleased on that front, just the coolant issue to sort now and I can drive her again

Brilliant Toby

Now we want to see MikeT type exactly the same words in his blog!