Xantiaman's Blog

Post by **CitroJim** » 26 Jul 2009, 12:34

Hi Gareth, I feel your pain too

I know all about lack of playtime when you have little 'uns...

Now, it seems from what you sere saying that the ram itself is OK and it's more likely the leakage return that is leaking.

The return is a rubber spigot moulded into a rubber collar that wraps around the ram. This can break/perish and repairs are possible. It's been described before and a search should bring up the various methods used. I've seen somewhere a new collar being fashioned out of a jubilee clip with a copper spigot soldered to it. Others have done a temporary repair using instant gasket but LHM appears to attack it after a while.

This picture shows the arrangement...

I was nattering to Martin at Pleiades about rams the other day. Sadly they are not really repairable if they leak on the ram itself. It might be worth a natter with him on leaky returns though.

Another thing to check is that the return pipe goes up and ends in a junction with four "arms" on it. It is possible this junction is leaking and LHM is running down the return pipe and making it look as if the ram is leaking. The junction is up near where the large braided pipes terminate.

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 26 Jul 2009, 12:55

XantiaMan583 wrote:Brilliant, so i sort out the boost build issue, its much better now and i'm happy with that, but in the process my rear ram has now decided it doesnt want to return LHM to the system anymore, it wants to dump it on the floor

If the leak is due to a split in the pipe where it connects to the ram I have heard of some people having success with a hot glue gun. Take a look at this link for idea's http://activaclubfrance.free.fr/entretien.html

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 26 Jul 2009, 15:55

Looks a bit of a bodge but, if it cures the leak.... AFAIK, its only low pressure so shouldnt take much to seal. I have some plastic epoxy repair glue, designed for bumpers which is semi flexible, if cleaned that should do the job.

Would anyone care to give me a quick run down as to the removal procedure? Gonna cut the grass then get out there, i hope!?

Gareth

Post by **CitroJim** » 26 Jul 2009, 17:39

Hi Gareth,

Have you definitely determined that the leakage return is the problem?

Not difficult to remove a ram although access is not especially wonderful. Support the rear on axle stands and depressurise. No need to remove wheels.

Undo the two braided hoses at the opposite end to the ram, not at the ram end. Be ready for a douche vert as pressure will still be fairly high. Be careful as the unions may be very tight. A bit of Plus-Gas will be in order. Disconnect the leakage return at the 4-way junction.

Using a trolley jack on the OS trailing arm, jack it up/down to releive the strain on the lower eye of the ram as you undo and remove the Allen bolt through the lower eye.

Undo the top retaining nut on the ram and lift it out, maniplulating the trolley jack on the trailing arm as necessary.

Reassembly is a reversal etc. etc. Do some citarobics and special activa citarobics at the end to bleed air. Special Activa citarobic involve getting hold of one of the roll corrector rods just under the front wing and pulling it to and fro to make the car rock from side to side.

Good luck with the repair, let us know how it goes

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 26 Jul 2009, 17:50

CitroJim wrote:Hi Gareth,

Have you definitely determined that the leakage return is the problem?

Not difficult to remove a ram although access is not especially wonderful. Support the rear on axle stands and depressurise. No need to remove wheels.

Undo the two braided hoses at the opposite end to the ram, not at the ram end. Be ready for a douche vert as pressure will still be fairly high. Be careful as the unions may be very tight. A bit of Plus-Gas will be in order. Disconnect the leakage return at the 4-way junction.

Using a trolley jack on the OS trailing arm, jack it up/down to releive the strain on the lower eye of the ram as you undo and remove the Allen bolt through the lower eye.

Undo the top retaining nut on the ram and lift it out, maniplulating the trolley jack on the trailing arm as necessary.

Reassembly is a reversal etc. etc. Do some citarobics and special activa citarobics at the end to bleed air. Special Activa citarobic involve getting hold of one of the roll corrector rods just under the front wing and pulling it to and fro to make the car rock from side to side.

Good luck with the repair, let us know how it goes

Hi Jim,

Almost certain. I've left it a few hours, and its continued to drip on my plastic tray that i left. I took some good pictures and there is nothing from the high pressure unions and under the gaitor is spotless so it has to be the usual failure of the return.

Would i be right in saying the ram on mine has been off a couple of times anyway? Shouldnt be too difficult to undo but i always use plenty of WD/plusgas for such a job.

Gareth

Post by **CitroJim** » 26 Jul 2009, 18:04

XantiaMan583 wrote:Would i be right in saying the ram on mine has been off a couple of times anyway?

Not on my watch Gareth but it has been disturbed a number of times for trails of prototype substitute ram bushes during my ownership. I've not loosened the big unions though.

You'll find you have a genuine ram bush in there though, not one of my creations...

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 26 Jul 2009, 18:09

CitroJim wrote:
XantiaMan583 wrote:Would i be right in saying the ram on mine has been off a couple of times anyway?
Not on my watch Gareth but it has been disturbed a number of times for trails of prototype substitute ram bushes during my ownership. I've not loosened the big unions though.

You'll find you have a genuine ram bush in there though, not one of my creations...

Ooo, didnt know that

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 26 Jul 2009, 19:28

Phew, that was close!

Got it up on axle stands nice and high again, set the suspension on low and left it for ten minutes.

Went underneath and heard a hissing noise... like a straw being sucked?

Luck is on my side this time, as it seems in the process of getting the rear on its bumpstops earlier today also managed to pull the plastic pipe straight out of the return...

So i can now say that despite this, not a lot of LHM is actually returned! Pushed it back in as best i can, and have cleaned it in panel wipe spray to clean off the leaking LHM.

Its just as well, as the ram pipe unions are tucked right up near the boot and could be quite difficult to get to, which is the life story of an Activa!

Ive not yet tested it, but there return pipe fitting is in very good shape, nice and supple so should last a good while longer.

Back off out now to get it back on the ground before it tips down!

Gareth

Post by **CitroJim** » 26 Jul 2009, 19:35

Excellent news Gareth

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 26 Jul 2009, 20:58

A few picture updates to go with the words!

Here is the boost controller location, i will tidy it up at some point but its better than being slapped on the dash and no visible wires.

The underside of the turbo and actuator set up after i had adjusted the tension. Boost now hits peak at 2200rpm, wont get much better than that! Noise is still there but the improved boost hold at top end was worth the hassle, it only drops 1psi now. Base setting is still quite low, saw 5psi at one point, up from 3.5psi.

First picture i took before i investigated fully the ram and its fittings. You couldnt see the popped off return from this angle but could see the high pressure side was fine and the actual ram itself wasnt leaking.

The ram after cleaning and pushing the pipe back in! Nout wrong here, carry on...

I've tested it tonight as its fine, as it was.

The reason for the pop off was very simple, when i lowered the back down and it sat on the bump stops it just came out. My fear was that the fitting was brittle and the elbow had split/cracked. But not so, so i'm a happy bunny!

Also pleased to report that it is now quite a bit quicker running 12psi on the EBC compared to the MBC. Duty cycle is set to 62% and gain at 10. Before i tweaked the actuator, it was 73% open. It needs more setting up but its fuzzy logic so will continue the learn the boost characteristics and may even lower the boost threshold further.

Sl4yer · Post by **Sl4yer** » 26 Jul 2009, 21:36

XantiaMan583 wrote: but its better than being slapped on the ...

Not quite sure this was what you meant Gareth, but pleased that the day has ended better than it started!

James

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 26 Jul 2009, 21:41

Sl4yer wrote:
XantiaMan583 wrote: but its better than being slapped on the gdash
Not quite sure this was what you meant Gareth, but pleased that the day has ended better than it started!

James

All sorted now

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 30 Jul 2009, 22:47

Had a good opportunity to drive it a longer distance on Tuesday, the EBC has made it a pleasure to drive and the boost is much stronger through the gears

It compliments the car perfectly, nice and torquey but revvy when needed.

The controller has registered a high of 13.1psi. It will continue to offset the duty/gain to get optimum boost response without making it unstable i.e spiking. I see a peak of 12.5 and this lowers to about 11.8 stable, barely dropping anymore as it goes towards the redline. Its a common complaint with small turbochargers that they run out of steam but the controller reduces this. Its not cheap at £180 quid but its is an investment.

Once the clutch has been changed, i hope to get a decat and improve the air feed to the filter and leave it at that.

New tyres will be needed soon! Looking for W rated tyres to replace the V Falkens. They have been a good tyre for the money but want to get something a bit better next time.

I read the 2 litre 16V Activa in Europe had 205/55's, i may look at them but it would look a bit odd with 60's on the back and im not going to replace perfectly good tyres just for the sake of it.

KP · Post by KP » 31 Jul 2009, 07:43

There wouldn't be much of a difference to be honest Gareth when they are on. the better thing will be at speed the car should feel a bit more planted round high speed corners as it will be using the roof a little more to push itself onto the road and the rear spoiler will get a bit more airflow over it to make its affect more pronounced, though as standard i honestly think they are useful as a pack of burgers on the back shelf...

Keep us updated on what tyres you get as im looking for some soon and looking toward V rated ones currently for the front and keeping the Michelin Energys for the rear

XantiaMan · Post by **XantiaMan** » 02 Aug 2009, 15:40

I should think the difference would be noticed at all speeds, with the stiffer sidewall it would make it feel sharper and more responsive.

On the rear is an NCT5 Eco which is w rated. I may see if they are still available as they are a 'touring' tyre and should combine the best of both worlds.