New Radiator on 1.9TD Xantia
Moderator: RichardW
New Radiator on 1.9TD Xantia
I have a small weep at the top of my radiator and have decided to replace it (I do not like using sealants).
I will get a new one from GSF and I have searched the forum for tips. Unfortunately I have the bayonet type connections and I understand that these can be a pain to get off. Are there any useful tips to remove them? When I get them off am I likely to need new 'O' rings and if so are they a dealer only part.
Also is the current thinking that removing the radiator and intercooler together is best option? Bleeding the system looks to be fun as well still at first when I was loosing water I thought that it could be the head gasket or the heater matrix so I have got off fairly lightly!
Richard
I will get a new one from GSF and I have searched the forum for tips. Unfortunately I have the bayonet type connections and I understand that these can be a pain to get off. Are there any useful tips to remove them? When I get them off am I likely to need new 'O' rings and if so are they a dealer only part.
Also is the current thinking that removing the radiator and intercooler together is best option? Bleeding the system looks to be fun as well still at first when I was loosing water I thought that it could be the head gasket or the heater matrix so I have got off fairly lightly!
Richard
1998 Xantia 1.9TD Estate (Sold - replaced with Skoda Octavia (sorry))
I replaced mine with an original one a few weeks ago, Those connections are a bit** to take off.
The only thing i can warn you from is when you connect the whole thing back together, be sure that you connect all the hoses back properly.
My lower hose got off a week after i replaced the radiator, after which i had to replace the engine.
I would clean the intercooler and the aircon. radiator too.
Elad.
The only thing i can warn you from is when you connect the whole thing back together, be sure that you connect all the hoses back properly.
My lower hose got off a week after i replaced the radiator, after which i had to replace the engine.
I would clean the intercooler and the aircon. radiator too.
Elad.
Xantia 2.0L 16V manual trans. 96
Xantia 1.9L TD 99
Xantia 1.9L TD 99
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OnlineCitroJim
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Yes, the bayonets can be tricky but if you play it carefully, you'll be OK. The top bayonet is normally not too bad, it's the bottom one that can be a pain.
Remove the retaining clip completely and gently pull on the hose. If it does not come easily, gently lever with a wide flat screwdriver between the rad socket and the end of the metal part of the bayonet. Gentle levering all round and "teasing" the bayonet normally releases the top one without too much difficulty. The vital thing is not to damage the bayonet at all.
The bottom can be tricky. It will likely be stuck fast and access is not good. Do the same as for the top but if necessary consider carefully wrecking the bottom rad socket to get the bayonet out; you're replacing the rad anyway. The plastic is quite soft and in the past, I've done it by inserting a thin blade between the metal part of the bayonet and the rad socket and gently levering upwards to crack and break away the plastic. Eventually, after this treatment, the bayonet will come out unharmed but still take care not to damage it. Once the hoses are off, lift the rad out complete with the intercooler. Split the two but take care to recover the rubber mounts for the intercooler as the new rad won't come with these.
The O rings can be saved. Gently tease them off the ends of the bayonets and give them and the bayonets a really good clean up with Scotchbrite. The O rings only need replacing if they're damaged or hard. Note that they're not standard O rings.
When refitting the bayonets, give them a good coating of vaseline, use the new reatining clips that came with the rad and make doubly sure they're firmly clicked home and that the clips are holding the bayonets firmly in place.
Bleeding is not that hard at all. Refill until the expansion tank is brim-full. Massage the top hose to dislodge some air and keep topping up the tank to maintain it brim-full. Start up, rev the engine to about 2000 rpm a few times and keep topping up the tank run until the thermostat opens (hot top hose) and all the time, keep topping up, occasionally revving the engine and massaging the top hose. Keep the engine running until the fans cut in and keep topping up. The main thing is to keep the tank brim-full.
Replace the cap, go for a spin, let cool and recheck the level. It may need topping a little over the next couple of days as the final bits of air dissipate in normal driving.
Remove the retaining clip completely and gently pull on the hose. If it does not come easily, gently lever with a wide flat screwdriver between the rad socket and the end of the metal part of the bayonet. Gentle levering all round and "teasing" the bayonet normally releases the top one without too much difficulty. The vital thing is not to damage the bayonet at all.
The bottom can be tricky. It will likely be stuck fast and access is not good. Do the same as for the top but if necessary consider carefully wrecking the bottom rad socket to get the bayonet out; you're replacing the rad anyway. The plastic is quite soft and in the past, I've done it by inserting a thin blade between the metal part of the bayonet and the rad socket and gently levering upwards to crack and break away the plastic. Eventually, after this treatment, the bayonet will come out unharmed but still take care not to damage it. Once the hoses are off, lift the rad out complete with the intercooler. Split the two but take care to recover the rubber mounts for the intercooler as the new rad won't come with these.
The O rings can be saved. Gently tease them off the ends of the bayonets and give them and the bayonets a really good clean up with Scotchbrite. The O rings only need replacing if they're damaged or hard. Note that they're not standard O rings.
When refitting the bayonets, give them a good coating of vaseline, use the new reatining clips that came with the rad and make doubly sure they're firmly clicked home and that the clips are holding the bayonets firmly in place.
Bleeding is not that hard at all. Refill until the expansion tank is brim-full. Massage the top hose to dislodge some air and keep topping up the tank to maintain it brim-full. Start up, rev the engine to about 2000 rpm a few times and keep topping up the tank run until the thermostat opens (hot top hose) and all the time, keep topping up, occasionally revving the engine and massaging the top hose. Keep the engine running until the fans cut in and keep topping up. The main thing is to keep the tank brim-full.
Replace the cap, go for a spin, let cool and recheck the level. It may need topping a little over the next couple of days as the final bits of air dissipate in normal driving.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
when i replaced my rad with this type of orible conections, i found the metal flandge which retains the seal to be rusted away, i had purchase two new seals, then found i had to buy a new bottom hose about 40 odd squide from citroen,
i have to this day still not stopped the bl**dy thing leaking,
ps.
my intercooler stayed in place
i am seriously considering fitting the earlyer type of rad with conventional hoses
regards malcolm
i have to this day still not stopped the bl**dy thing leaking,
ps.
my intercooler stayed in place
i am seriously considering fitting the earlyer type of rad with conventional hoses
regards malcolm
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OnlineCitroJim
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That's odd Malcolm. Touch wood, I've never had a problem with bayonets leaking. Amazing that they do on new hoses too.citronut wrote: i have to this day still not stopped the bl**dy thing leaking,
I reckon the secret is in coating them with vaseline Clenliness is paramount too, you only need a speck of dirt in the bayonet and they won't be happy at all.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Thanks for all the wise words
And the horror stories
I need the thing water tight before I tow my caravan to Norfolk at the beginning of August so I will get a new rad straight away!
Luckily we do have another car (Micra) so I can take my time.
Richard
And the horror stories
I need the thing water tight before I tow my caravan to Norfolk at the beginning of August so I will get a new rad straight away!
Luckily we do have another car (Micra) so I can take my time.
Richard
1998 Xantia 1.9TD Estate (Sold - replaced with Skoda Octavia (sorry))
I hate these clip fit connectors. The bottom hose is always a real pain to get out and put in again. This connector always rusts and it must be cleaned off carefully - the fit is very close and flaked rust can stop the connector going in all the way. Additionally access to the bottom hose is diabolical...
If the bottom hose connector is too rusted it will have to be replaced. As the bottom hose is £40-ish (as has been said), there would be a real benefit in buying a top hose to get the new connector. Then joining it to the bottom hose with a length of pipe and a couple of jubilee clips. That way, if you have to remove the rad you undo the jubilee clip and don't have to disturb the rad connector. I was going to do this on mine – as a preventative measure – until my local dealer couldn’t find the part or the number to order me a top hose!
If the bottom hose connector is too rusted it will have to be replaced. As the bottom hose is £40-ish (as has been said), there would be a real benefit in buying a top hose to get the new connector. Then joining it to the bottom hose with a length of pipe and a couple of jubilee clips. That way, if you have to remove the rad you undo the jubilee clip and don't have to disturb the rad connector. I was going to do this on mine – as a preventative measure – until my local dealer couldn’t find the part or the number to order me a top hose!
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Xantia 1.9 TD Temp.2 Break (97) - 208K@42mpg - Resting again.
Berlingo Multispace 1.6 16v (51) - 184K@36mpg - My shed! Still runs 15° retarded...
Xantia 1.9 TD Temp.2 Break (97) - 208K@42mpg - Resting again.
Berlingo Multispace 1.6 16v (51) - 184K@36mpg - My shed! Still runs 15° retarded...
I would say that if you are going to the bother then fit a new bottom hose. You then have new fittings at rad bottom which will make the job easier and give you a good seal..........that`s what I did and all good.
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As the weather forecast was pants for this weekend I started the job yesterday evening. All parts came off easily except for the bottom hose however that gave way eventually.
Assembly was straight forward however I could not get the bottom hose to seat far enough for the clip to secure it. It seemed to be located fully but if I pulled hard on the hose it came apart again.
I have decided to bite the bullet and buy a new hose (£50 inc vat) but my dealer in Manchester cannot get it until Tuesday. In the meantime I want to remove the old one so that I can compare them when I pick up the new part. Is there an easy way to remove the bottom hose. It appears to be connected at the radiator, the block and another pipe that I assume goes to the bottom of the header tank. I have the undertray and the O/S inner wing panel removed and would welcome any advice.
Thanks
Richard
Assembly was straight forward however I could not get the bottom hose to seat far enough for the clip to secure it. It seemed to be located fully but if I pulled hard on the hose it came apart again.
I have decided to bite the bullet and buy a new hose (£50 inc vat) but my dealer in Manchester cannot get it until Tuesday. In the meantime I want to remove the old one so that I can compare them when I pick up the new part. Is there an easy way to remove the bottom hose. It appears to be connected at the radiator, the block and another pipe that I assume goes to the bottom of the header tank. I have the undertray and the O/S inner wing panel removed and would welcome any advice.
Thanks
Richard
1998 Xantia 1.9TD Estate (Sold - replaced with Skoda Octavia (sorry))
i had another atempt at fixing the leak at the bottom hose joint on my R reg xant yesterday, what i noticed was two of the three metal lugs on the hose end were flater than the other, so i gently prized these out to about the same as the third one, also this time a smeared the seal with grease which i dont normaly like to do, even though it has got to be lubricated with something,
unlike the first two attempts it whent it beter and stayed right in square, before it was kicking out at the top edge with or without the clip in place,
so touch plastic i think i have beat it
regards malcolm
unlike the first two attempts it whent it beter and stayed right in square, before it was kicking out at the top edge with or without the clip in place,
so touch plastic i think i have beat it
regards malcolm
Nest Installment.
Yesterday afternoon (after the F1) I set about getting the bottom hose off. I decided that the only way to get to the bottom of the heater tank to disconnect the clip was to remove the washer tank. I released the O/S wheelarch cover and set about the 2 bolts holding the tank on. These came out about 3 mm then the captive nuts decided they would like to be free! After cursing out came the Dremel and the cutting disc.
Unfortunately whilst removing the tank, after draining it I splashed some water onto my lead lamp and the bulb exploded! However I now have the hose off and should get a new one tomorrow. I could try fettling the old one but would prefer a new one as I have got this far.
On another note I have been reassembling the turbo hoses under the bonnet and I am shocked at how delicate the radiator fins are. the old (original) radiator had a steel plate on top but this one has the aluminium fins exposed and I have bent a few of them slightly whilst pushing the hoses onto the intercooler. I will have to be very careful when changing the oil filter in future or find some way to protect the radiator top.
Richard
Yesterday afternoon (after the F1) I set about getting the bottom hose off. I decided that the only way to get to the bottom of the heater tank to disconnect the clip was to remove the washer tank. I released the O/S wheelarch cover and set about the 2 bolts holding the tank on. These came out about 3 mm then the captive nuts decided they would like to be free! After cursing out came the Dremel and the cutting disc.
Unfortunately whilst removing the tank, after draining it I splashed some water onto my lead lamp and the bulb exploded! However I now have the hose off and should get a new one tomorrow. I could try fettling the old one but would prefer a new one as I have got this far.
On another note I have been reassembling the turbo hoses under the bonnet and I am shocked at how delicate the radiator fins are. the old (original) radiator had a steel plate on top but this one has the aluminium fins exposed and I have bent a few of them slightly whilst pushing the hoses onto the intercooler. I will have to be very careful when changing the oil filter in future or find some way to protect the radiator top.
Richard
1998 Xantia 1.9TD Estate (Sold - replaced with Skoda Octavia (sorry))