Confessions of a Citroholic

[mickthemaverick]

That sounds like the connector has 'frozen' Richard. I'd spray some electrical contact cleaner into the plug as best as you can and then having lifted the tabs start wiggling!! What was the matter with a good old handbrake cable that operated the handbrake one wonders!! Good luck with it!

[RichardW]

Picasso: Handbrake continues to work OK/ However, I can't help but think the motor is actually broken, and may cause trouble at some inconvenient time in the future! This is a later car, and there are only 2 wires at the motor, presumably a reversible power supply, and no position feedback (early ones had 4 wires). I guess that what happens is the computer applies power to get the motor to spin, then monitors the current, looking for a drop off when the brake is released, a rise when the brake is applied and the motor stalls, and when wound back for service it looks for a drop in current then a spike back up when the motor stalls at the end of the wind back. I can only think that there is some failure inside the motor / drive assembly which caused it to slip when it got to the wound back position, and since the computer didn't see a current rise, it just keep running it. Bit odd that there is no time out function, but there you go. So, it would appear that there is some sort of lurking failure inside that may become a problem at some time in the future! New motor is under £150 from Cit, so if I can find one cheaper, I may replace it. Thinking about it, I suspect that the connector clip is on the back, will need to get a mirror on it.

3008: I'm thinking that if I am dismantling the OS corner to get the strrut out (scuttle, wipers, undertray etc) I might as well do the cambelt at the same time. And the diesel filter is 25k old and 3.5 years, so might as well shove a new one whilst it's exposed. And it could do with a thermostat whilst the coolant is out - it has been a bit laggy sometimes in the winter. Better order some more parts... I was looking at cambelt kits, there seemed to be a myriad options, but I think I have nailed it down - there is a later version of the DV6C, which this is, and this kit seems to be described as 'with oval pulley' what ever that might mean! An SKF kit with pump and new crank pulley bolt is £140 direct, but I saw one for £80 which seems a bargain - last one I did I bought a bolt from Citroen - and had to buy 2, as they only supplied them in packets of two. WHY??? Who needs 2 crank pulley bolts???

[RichardW]

Figured it out I think...I saw a vid on someone winding this type of motor back by applying 12v to it - and when it got to the end the piston started to go round. Had a look at the pad, and...

The pin that is supposed to fit into the slot in the piston is basically not there and there is a definite circular witness mark. So, I'm sure the piston was just spinning when it was wound back rather than the pad pin holding it. Hopefully we haven't ruined the seal on the piston!

[RichardW]

Some hot melt glue bodgery today! The 3008 NS reg plate light has long been intermittent, and the fitting was broken away. I managed to get the outer panel off the lower boot door (not easy, the clips were very stubborn) - some one has been here before, there is a bolt missing from each side. The light sits on a plastic plate that sticks out, and was completely snapped off. A short time later with the hot glue gun, and a couple of aluminium support plates, and it's good as new. Found a bulb in the garage that was recovered out of some previous car

[CitroJim]

Excellent work Richard

[RichardW]

Proper spannering this weekend. OSF spring and topmount, timing belt, and diesel filter on the 3008.

Not too bad, getting the wing liner out was a trial as all the bolts seized of course! Had a moment with the bleed cap on the stat - being a clumsy bugger I dropped it, and it lodged on the 'box' on the front of the gear box. Took off one of the cables (reverse interlock maybe) and managed to get a screwdriver on the cap, but after a good few minutes where I ALMOST had it it sprang off and I couldn't see it. Then I couldn't find the cable again - like WTF?? Eventually realised it was resting under the battery, looking very much like one of the other cables! Did a few other bits, looked down, and there was the damn cap in plain view and easily reachable on the top of the gearbox

Got the belt on wrong on the diesel pump to start with, but it was not too hard to reset it.

Some hot melt glue bodgery too...the crank sensor has a plastic locating pin but it broke (or was broken already, didn't think I was that heavy handed with it). Anyway, it has a hole in it, so I put in a bit of Allen key, and put a spot of glue to hold it in. TBH, can't really think it's required once bolted up, but no harm in doing it.

Seems to be quieter, but I imagine that's placebo.

I did investigate the thermostat, but that appears to be another world of pain taking out the battery and tray ( which involves taking out the other wing liner ) so decided it can stay for now, and the stat has gone on the shelf.

Interesting point to note is that the bottom hose is in fact the 'top' hose and vice-versa - the rad is Up flow!

Got a new set of wipers to finish it off.

Eldest son came out, and said blimey how many tools do you need, well quite a few it seems!

Old belt actually looks fine, but you never know, and there was a little bit of crustiness around the water pump.

[mickthemaverick]

Nice going Richard, I like the look of your DIY ramp extenders, I might copy that when my current ones start bending!!

[RichardW]

Some thoughts from the recent work...

Will probably have to have the spring out of the 3008 again - when I took it apart the central metal tube part of the top mount came out. I put it back in thinking it was just a spacer, but on reflection, I am presuming it should be bonded to the top mount, and therefore it's likely to need a new mount sooner rather than later... On the up side seems to run better with more power and better economy (or maybe I am imagining it!).

I looked up the cam belt for the Picasso - it's a different part number to the earlier DV6C engine, and on investigation is only 3/4" wide, compared to the 1" of the earlier engines! This is presumably why they have a reputation for early failure... So got to do service in a few weeks, will pop the top cover off and see what the belt looks like - it's nearly 7 years old and has done over 60k now.

Found a use for the 42mm GS crank bolt socket (which has been used once about 40 years ago!) - had to put a new bearing in the real wheel of my bike (it has sealed bearing races rather than cup and cone). Needed to support the hub whilst I drove the new bearing in, and the 42mm socket was just the right size This was another pain job... there is an axle shaft with a cap screwed on either end, you remove the caps, then use the axle to drive the bearings out. However, when I looked at it last week, I couldn't get the non drive side cap off - there is a hex in the end of the shaft, but this just rounded out and I couldn't shift the cap, so I bought a new cap and shaft. Came to do it last night, and damn me if the stuck cap didn't come off easiliy, leaving me with an issue that I couldn't get the drive side cap off! This is more of a problem as you need to get this cap off to remove the freehub before driving the bearing out However, as I had a new axle I just got hold of the end of it with water pump pliers, and managed to get the cap off. Easy enough to replace from there. Wheel spins nicely now, but I think the creak I was trying to eradicate is still there, so I think it needs a new bottom bracket as well....

[myglaren]

Still have the 42mmm tube spanner that I bought to do the GS rear discs. Only used the once, 40 years ago.
Only used to fit new ones though as I heard that they were so tight that they were near impossible to remove and the dealer method was to split the nut with a cold chisel and bin it, fit a new nut and 'C' nut, 35p IIRC.

[bobins]

Found a use for the 42mm GS crank bolt socket (which has been used once about 40 years ago!) - had to put a new bearing in the real wheel of my bike (it has sealed bearing races rather than cup and cone). Needed to support the hub whilst I drove the new bearing in, and the 42mm socket was just the right size

I shall bookmark this thread so next time Mrs Bobins asks me if I've got a use for all the things I've hoarded I can point her to your use of an obscure socket that's been sitting on the shelf for decades.
Everyone - repeat after me : "It might come in handy one day"

[RichardW]

Serviced the C4 at the weekend. Thanks to Jim's input from his blog:

How did you get that breather pipe off the air box, Jim?

I'd say easily Richard but not quite, I squeezed the clips, fiddled a bit and it popped off... Or at least, mine did! It was not straightforward. I may have needed the assistance of a little screwdriver too... Can't exactly remember now...

I'll revisit the subject in a bit and advise...

That connector is definitely fiddly and there's a knack to it Richard!

It took me about 20 minutes today...

This is what the end of the airbox spigot looks like:



And this is the collet within the connector:



The technique is to initially push the connector towards the airbox. Then, whilst holding the connector as far forward as you can, pull the collet assembly back as far as it will go by its ears, squeeze the two ears together really hard and keeping them squeezed as hard as you can, pull forward and the connector will release and come off the spigot... It may take two or three attempts. It's made difficult because the collet is loose inside the connector and that's why it's needs to be pulled back whist squeezing its ears... If you don't, the ring on the spigot prevents the collect jaws expanding enough to pass over them...

Whoever designed that was a genius/idiot/psychopath/joker/sadist* 100% more complex than it needed to be...

* Select your favoured choice...

I was able to remove the pipe from the air box. It's a bit counter intuitive as you seem to need to push it onto the air box, whilst simultaneously pulling it back I'm not sure I could say how it's done, but I pressed, squeezed and pulled and it popped off!! This makes life much easier as you can then remove the air box lid to get the filter out without needing to remove the scuttle panel. Just enough room to do the diesel filter as well under the scuttle. Still need to do the pollen filters, was warming up a bit by the time the rest was done, so I skipped it for now Finished off with a set of new wipers - those on it were the factory originals at nearly 7 years and 65k, ready for a change I thought.... Needs at least the NS front ball joint, and probably both since I think the Borg and Beck one I fitted on the OS is also noisy already. Can get Meyle ones from Autodoc for only just over £20, so that would be a no brainer! I suspect the front dampers are nearly shot as well, seems to be a bit floaty on the front. Common problem on these, suspect they are not man enough for the weight of the car. Will wait till it breaks a spring, then swap in complete strut units - unless the floatiness gets too bad in the mean time!

[CitroJim]

Pleased that worked OK Richard

[RichardW]

Er, that's not supposed to be there!

Mrs was out in the C4 today and I saw this on the drive, where the NSR wheel is, oily to touch. When she came home it was dripping - of course it is booked in for MOT tomorrow I've worked out what it is, not something I have seen before, and not my first guess either. I'll leave it here for you to guess what it is!

[mickthemaverick]

Near the NSR wheel my first guess would be eolys?

[RichardW]

Near the NSR wheel my first guess would be eolys?

That was mine too, but it's not!