HG repair requirements

[steelcityuk]

Hi Mike.

Please try again. I'd altered the permissions without realizing.

Steve.

[MikeT]

Cheers Steve 8) I'm off for a closer look.... I may be some time

[MikeT]

Holy mackerel Steve! How did that head get so damaged??

Your photos show that all EGR's should be outlawed as a crime against engine longevity, if not for causing later emissions problems. Did you make up the blanking plates yourself?

Seems you made such a thorough job in the same vain I hope to but am now thinking, perhaps would Steve do mine for me? How much would you want? Judging by the datestamps, you took your time though I hope it won't take me so long to do. I was thinking a month may be a reasonable estimate?

Was the turbo in need of the service or did you do it as a matter of course? I have a similar leak (but much more wet!) around the turbo that I assume is oil but could well be the very same fuel leak you refer to. It's impossible to see where it's coming from, hopefully I can tell when the head is off.

I'm also considering cleaning up the ports and would like to open them out to the same size as the gasket holes so it can breathe easier.

Thanks for sharing those, most enlightening.

[jgra1]

hi Mike, I haven't had time to read all these posts, but one thing I found useful when working alone behind this engine, an old scissor jack to bring it forward (against bulkhead), after removing top right mounting etc...

saves having to hold a beam of wood or tie the beam somehow..

I have same problem, oil all over back of engine from top down...

LHM leak too

clutch going

cambelt needing replacement

so, thinking to take my engine/box out and do all at once... I do have a spare leakless engine lying about, with a recent cambelt.. I wonder if I should just do a swap, but it's a 'devil i know' type situation...


anyway, I will shut up

John

[MikeT]

One tip I will give, in connection with teh cambelts, is to undo the crank bolt as one of the very first jobs you do.

That is an invaluable tip Jim. Funny thing is, in the order advised by Haynes, it says to remove the crank bolt and pulley..... then it says to rotate the engine using the pulley bolt in order to insert the locking bolts and then it says remove the crank pulley.

EDIT: Sorry, that last sentence should read "and then it says remove the cam pulley."

[MikeT]

one thing I found useful when working alone behind this engine, an old scissor jack to bring it forward

Yes! That is what I was after. I might have a scissor jack, thanks John! I'm also pondering on how useful it would be to remove the bonnet so I can climb into the engine bay.

[steelcityuk]

Hi Mike,

It seems to be a problem with 2.5TDs. I'd say the cooling system is marginal with no slack for poor maintenance or loss of coolant. My guess is that the engine was run low on coolant, possibly a radiator problem.

EGRs do tend to lead to a gunk build up. I put it down to hot exhaust gasses meeting cool air that has oil vapor in it from the PCV system. I used a old Waxoyl tin to make the blanks from.

The head job on a 2.5 is such a big job that at an indie owners have paid 2.5k for the work doing including a new head. It did take ages but it is a difficult engine to work on. For example to remove the plenum chamber requires the removal of a dozen bolts or so, various amounts of induction piping and getting under the car to release the EGR clamp.

The turbo service was done because it seemed a little too oily in the compressor side of things.

If opening up the ports to the gasket sizes remember to only do that to the induction side of the head not the exhaust side.

Good luck with it.

Steve.

[MikeT]

If opening up the ports to the gasket sizes remember to only do that to the induction side of the head not the exhaust side.

Thanks for the tips and good wishes Steve. I admit, I wasn't aware it's unwise to open the exhaust ports. When I say, open up, I actually mean to flare them at the opening rather than bore it all out to the size of the gasket hole. Obviously, I don't want to weaken the head by removing too much but why not the exhaust as I may well have done so had you not given that warning?

[CitroJim]

Funny thing is, in the order advised by Haynes, it says to remove the crank bolt and pulley..... then it says to rotate the engine using the pulley bolt in order to insert the locking bolts

The BoL strikes again Mike

The very best way I find of rotating the engine to time after removing the crank pulley is to pop two wheel studs into the O/S wheel hub, lock the N/S wheel (if it's off the ground) with a block of wood and then use a breaker bar between the wheel stubs to rotate the engine via the hub, gearbox and clutch. Handbrake off of course

Alternatively, if you have a hub nut socket, you can use this to rotate the hub and engine.

NEVER try to rotate the engine by putting a spanner or socket on the cam or pump centre nuts.

[steelcityuk]

Hi Mike,

The theory (!) is that if there's a 'step' between the exhaust port on the head (say 20mm opening) and the exhaust manifold (say 25mm opening) then any reverse flow of exhaust gas back into the chamber (maybe due to back pressure in the exhaust system due to the silencers or turbo) will be hindered by this step causing turbulence. Any back flow will pollute the fresh charge resulting in less power. Strangely this is exactly what EGR systems do, which is another good reason to disable them - slightly more power and economy perhaps.

Hope that explains it. A really good read if you can find a copy is David Vizards Tuning The A Series. The techniques used in that book are thoroughly explained and apply to some extent to all engines.

Steve.

[MikeT]

Cheers Jim, I got totally fed up with Haynes last night, at the point it says remove the camshaft sprocket it goes on a wild-goose chase refering to another section, find that section and one of the first lines will be "See section...." add nauseum. Working out which should be done in what order gave me a headache only to find, as said above, it's plain wrong and leaves you having to re-assemble parts again before you can proceed. Anyway, I'm still up for it once my pain subsides Thankfully, I've got the memories of your tutoring helping me picture it all in my mind.

Steve, that's an interesting theory. I am sorely tempted to add something like this to my exhaust so wonder if it's worth suffering the consequences of exhaust reversion in normal driving to benefit from unmolested evacuation as required.
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php

[steelcityuk]

Hi Mike,

Do you know if it's road legal? I had a quick scan but didn't see anything.

I'd imagine you'd get cheaper performance from a rolling road tweak of the pump and wastegate.

Steve.

[MikeT]

Hi Steve, I'm unsure of the legalities but suspect they meet all UK requirements in the default closed state. That example is expensive, I've seen other sites selling them for half that price but it's still cheaper than a performance sports exhaust and you get to keep the standard exhaust fitted too There is another reason I'd like to fit one but that's been on the back burner for some time now.

I agree, the cheapest power increase is to be found in the bosch pump followed by the turbo adjustment but dyno's are not my cup of tea, I prefer road testing . I also have a remote boost controller and gauge though I don't how the wastegate is activated and if I can tap into it? I saw today, a marking on the turbo, looks like GT15 or G115 which I suspect means it a garrett. Any idea where I can find diagrams and specifications for it?

[MikeT]

I wasn't able to start the job in earnest today despite the better weather so I just made a gentle start. But I'm hesitant about what I need to do before the engine (therefore suspension, steering, brakes etc) is wholly disabled.

So far, it's up on axle stands and on the lowest height setting with the crank bolt loosened (put in fifth gear and apply handbrake hard - no problem 8) )and the O/S wheel and arch liner removed. I don't want to crack on with dismantling parts only to realise I need to replace them all again for some oversight that is the Haynes manual

Before I begin tomorrow (hopefully), is there anything else I might need to run the engine for?

[CitroJim]

crank bolt loosened (put in fifth gear and apply handbrake hard - no problem 8) )

You were lucky! Let's just hope everything else goes as smoothly.

I think you're safe to get stuck in now Mike No more reason to run the engine that I can think of...

I would begin by draining the coolant and whilst it's doing that, start removing the cambelt and engine mount. Then take off all the turbo hoses. I say take off the engine mount first so you can pull the engine forward a little to give you better access to the two 10mm studs that attach the top turbo hose to the turbocharger compressor inlet. they're quite tricky to get to and here you'll find a 1/4" drive socket useful. Once all turbo hoses are off, stuff the turbo orifices with clean rag to prevent ingress of foreign objects.

Then, once the coolant has drained, remove the thermostat lid (with the top hose attached), remove the thermostat and then the fuel filter housing (drain it first!) so you can unbolt (three Allen screws) and remove the thermostat housing from the head casting.

Final job for now is to disconnet the heater hose from it's spingot on the back of the block.

That'll do for now... Gentle days work there

next up will be to get those manifolds off....