This how the glow plugs work on my ZX 1.9 TD...I would imagine the operation will be the same on all of the 1.9 TD engines.
If you switch the ignition on but don't start the engine the plugs will stay on for about 25 seconds (the glow light on the dash goes out after about 10 seconds)
If you start the car from cold the plugs will stay on for approx 3 minutes after the engine is started or until the coolant temp reaches 60 degrees...which ever comes first.
If the coolant temp is 60 degrees or more & the engine is started the plugs will only stay on for the 25 second period.
My car doesn't have it but later cars had a micro switch on the pump throttle lever...if this switch is operated for more than a few seconds (5 rings a bell) it also interrupted the 3 minute period.
I believe in order to operate the micro switch the throttle peddle has to be pressed more than half way.
1996 P Reg Xantia 1.9TD - Engine won't stop!
Moderator: RichardW
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Hi All,
Uncle Buck - I did replace the glow plugs with BERU ones from GSF.
I also replaced the leak off pipes. I put in some clear hose from the filter housing to the fuel pump, which most of the time did seem to have air bubbles in it, I also replaced the primer bulb as I suspected that to be leaking and drawing air in. I've also replaced the fuel filter, and stuck in some wurth diesel additive in there when i did that.
When I checked myself before, I have checked that there is a voltage drop on the battery while the glow plug light is on, and for a short time afterwards until the relay clicks off in the engine bay, which I would assume means the relay is working.
I've also had the battery off to charge it as it went flat from all the repeated cranking, then stuck it back in, got a jump with that batt fully charged and a mates battery, and the car fired up eventually.
Each time I think I've cracked it, I get maybe a couple of days out of it, and then we're back to square one - won't start. I even wondered if it might be the battery, but as far as I can tell it turns over easily enough, it just wont fire up. I can crank it over for ages, and eventually the car will fire (well most of the time). I presume this is because the combustion has heated up sufficiently to carry on the process?. This is after maybe a good 20 seconds or more of cranking.
I always leave it another 5-10 secs after the glow plug light goes out or until the "click" before going to start the engine. Makes no difference though.
It's got me beat really. It's broken me
Uncle Buck - I did replace the glow plugs with BERU ones from GSF.
I also replaced the leak off pipes. I put in some clear hose from the filter housing to the fuel pump, which most of the time did seem to have air bubbles in it, I also replaced the primer bulb as I suspected that to be leaking and drawing air in. I've also replaced the fuel filter, and stuck in some wurth diesel additive in there when i did that.
When I checked myself before, I have checked that there is a voltage drop on the battery while the glow plug light is on, and for a short time afterwards until the relay clicks off in the engine bay, which I would assume means the relay is working.
I've also had the battery off to charge it as it went flat from all the repeated cranking, then stuck it back in, got a jump with that batt fully charged and a mates battery, and the car fired up eventually.
Each time I think I've cracked it, I get maybe a couple of days out of it, and then we're back to square one - won't start. I even wondered if it might be the battery, but as far as I can tell it turns over easily enough, it just wont fire up. I can crank it over for ages, and eventually the car will fire (well most of the time). I presume this is because the combustion has heated up sufficiently to carry on the process?. This is after maybe a good 20 seconds or more of cranking.
I always leave it another 5-10 secs after the glow plug light goes out or until the "click" before going to start the engine. Makes no difference though.
It's got me beat really. It's broken me
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Hmm....you have just about covered everything trying to remedy this fault.
I can recall a problem similar to yours on a pug 405 TD a few years back...everything had been tried but the problem still persisted...a small none return valve was fitted just after the priming bulb & low & behold the problem stopped. The priming bulb had also been changed on that car.
If the garage doesn't find the problem you could try clamping the flow fuel line (before the priming bulb) overnight & see if that helps starting...you will have to leave the clamp in place when starting to achieve the result ...as soon as the engine starts remove the clamp.
You may have to try this a few times to make sure the results are the same each time.....then move onto the return fuel line & do the same.
The only other thing I can think of is that there could be an air leak from one of the seals on the pump...that is letting air in but not fuel out...I have seen this before.
Also are the valve clearances within spec...if not this can cause poor starting problems as when the engine is cold the valves aren't 100% tightly closed...this is not normally an intermittent problem though.
I can recall a problem similar to yours on a pug 405 TD a few years back...everything had been tried but the problem still persisted...a small none return valve was fitted just after the priming bulb & low & behold the problem stopped. The priming bulb had also been changed on that car.
If the garage doesn't find the problem you could try clamping the flow fuel line (before the priming bulb) overnight & see if that helps starting...you will have to leave the clamp in place when starting to achieve the result ...as soon as the engine starts remove the clamp.
You may have to try this a few times to make sure the results are the same each time.....then move onto the return fuel line & do the same.
The only other thing I can think of is that there could be an air leak from one of the seals on the pump...that is letting air in but not fuel out...I have seen this before.
Also are the valve clearances within spec...if not this can cause poor starting problems as when the engine is cold the valves aren't 100% tightly closed...this is not normally an intermittent problem though.
2006 C4 1.6 HDi 16V (92) non FAP
2001 Xsara II 1.4 LX
2001 Renault Laguna II 1.9dCi Sport Tourer
2001 Xsara II 1.4 LX
2001 Renault Laguna II 1.9dCi Sport Tourer
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