Thanks for that info Nick, the quick times for preheating compared to my old Xantia (a good few seconds cold) explains the lack of a preheater light.
I've PMed you with my email address, by the way.
Just found now that the C3 is showing the engine diagnostic symbol on the instrument panel... I s'pose next step is to take it back to Citroen and get them to read the ECU fault codes. The rabbit hole gets deeper...
Citroen C3 - Exhaust blowing under bonnet and bad starting
Moderator: RichardW
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fastandfurryous
- Posts: 1388
- Joined: 07 Jul 2004, 17:57
- Location: On the road, travelling at high speed. Meep Meep.
- My Cars:
- x 4
From what I understand about the HDI engines, the injector seals are almost identical to the XUD injector seals. 4 copper washers and 4 fire-seal washers. Total cost about £2, and reasonably easy to fit.
The only issue you have is that the injectors on HDI engines are very long, so the seals are a long way down into the head. Nothing a bit of hooked wire won't retrieve.
The only issue you have is that the injectors on HDI engines are very long, so the seals are a long way down into the head. Nothing a bit of hooked wire won't retrieve.
This is not a signature.
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JamesQB
- Posts: 375
- Joined: 13 Aug 2003, 18:01
- Location: North Wales, United Kingdom
- My Cars: Citroen Xantia 1.8 - I miss this car a lot.
- x 5
Well, latest update with this pest of a car: I finally got around to looking under the bonnet today. The Citroen garage had cable-tied the large air intake tube that draws in air from above left headlight, to the large tube which comes back out the air filter housing to stop movement of extremely loose air intake tube. No need for it, it was just that the two halves of the intake tube hadn't been pushed anything like together and so hadn't clipped. I put it all right and there's now no movement from either tube assembly. Monkeys.
I should have said that the car's the 16V model. I found out today that it has a turbo fitted - thought it wasn't an HDi if it had a turbo? Even the Citroen garage sales prat said it had no turbo when we bought it two years ago. It's at the front of the engine with one side connected to the exhaust manifold and the other side to the large tube mentioned above coming from the air filter housing and even has turbo written on it for those who don't know what one looks like. Least that explains the sudden surge when reaching >2000 rpms.
Anyway, problem still very much there. I saw the injectors on the top of the engine block, they each have a rounded-corner diamond shape bracket holding them down, with just the injector stem poking up. Can't take them out or do anything without a Haynes manual, though; I like to have correct torques for everything.
I should just add that if you try cranking the engine non-stop, you can go 45 seconds with nothing, turn key off, try again and it starts fairly soon. BUT, also found that you can crank for only 5 - 10 seconds instead, turn key off and try again and it starts very quickly. So, if with two cranks it can start in around a total of 20 seconds cranking, why does it not start or try to in one crank of 45 seconds? Puzzles me.
Pondering the problem with the car today, I started wondering if the symptoms point towards problems with the injector timing:
- Hard to start, lots of attempts needed - timing advance not happening for cold starting?
- Noisy, rough sounding, with considerable lag when pulling off (press accelerator, nothing happens, then suddenly revs and pulls) and similar hesistancy more noticeable in lower gears when adjusting throttle position (lift foot tiniest bit, engine brakes noticeably) - timing not advanced or retarded correctly?
Any thoughts on this, like if the injector timing could cause a noisy, tractor-like sounding engine, or possible causes of the timing being wrong?
I remember another post on this forum where a very knowledgeable chap talked of all the different sensors and mechanisms that took part in the timing of the injectors and in this case pointed out the fuekl filter could be clogged and so the pump wasn't at the right pressure or something. A possibility here?
Thanks,
James
I should have said that the car's the 16V model. I found out today that it has a turbo fitted - thought it wasn't an HDi if it had a turbo? Even the Citroen garage sales prat said it had no turbo when we bought it two years ago. It's at the front of the engine with one side connected to the exhaust manifold and the other side to the large tube mentioned above coming from the air filter housing and even has turbo written on it for those who don't know what one looks like. Least that explains the sudden surge when reaching >2000 rpms.
Anyway, problem still very much there. I saw the injectors on the top of the engine block, they each have a rounded-corner diamond shape bracket holding them down, with just the injector stem poking up. Can't take them out or do anything without a Haynes manual, though; I like to have correct torques for everything.
I should just add that if you try cranking the engine non-stop, you can go 45 seconds with nothing, turn key off, try again and it starts fairly soon. BUT, also found that you can crank for only 5 - 10 seconds instead, turn key off and try again and it starts very quickly. So, if with two cranks it can start in around a total of 20 seconds cranking, why does it not start or try to in one crank of 45 seconds? Puzzles me.
Pondering the problem with the car today, I started wondering if the symptoms point towards problems with the injector timing:
- Hard to start, lots of attempts needed - timing advance not happening for cold starting?
- Noisy, rough sounding, with considerable lag when pulling off (press accelerator, nothing happens, then suddenly revs and pulls) and similar hesistancy more noticeable in lower gears when adjusting throttle position (lift foot tiniest bit, engine brakes noticeably) - timing not advanced or retarded correctly?
Any thoughts on this, like if the injector timing could cause a noisy, tractor-like sounding engine, or possible causes of the timing being wrong?
I remember another post on this forum where a very knowledgeable chap talked of all the different sensors and mechanisms that took part in the timing of the injectors and in this case pointed out the fuekl filter could be clogged and so the pump wasn't at the right pressure or something. A possibility here?
Thanks,
James
Honda Civic 2.2 CDTi 2006
Peugeot 407 2.0 HDi 2007
Peugeot 407 2.0 HDi 2007
Hi,
The poor starting sounds like an air leak in the fuel line (loose hose connector or small hole/split) or a leaky non return valve on the priming bulb - both would allow fuel to drain back to the tank and cause the symptoms you describe.
If you squeeze the priming bulb repeatedly does it become hard and if left does it get significantly soft again ?
Priming bulb is on top LHS of engine as you face it.
regards
John
The poor starting sounds like an air leak in the fuel line (loose hose connector or small hole/split) or a leaky non return valve on the priming bulb - both would allow fuel to drain back to the tank and cause the symptoms you describe.
If you squeeze the priming bulb repeatedly does it become hard and if left does it get significantly soft again ?
Priming bulb is on top LHS of engine as you face it.
regards
John