Intercooler understanding
Moderator: RichardW
One of those old cylinder hoovers would have been fantastic for this, the type that you could change from "suck" to "blow" by just plugging the hose in the other end of the cleaner. They don't seem to make 'em like that anymore unfortunately.jeremy wrote: The problem with solvent will be getting it all out. I suppose a high volume low pressure air source would be best - but who has one of those. The problem with simply blowing it out is that the air will probably take the shortest route and not reach the corners - so solvent lurks until full boost is achieved.
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steelcityuk
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>>No finding fault, simply lively debate to tease out all the points.
I would think if you let the intercooler drain well then either sit it in the sun or on the top of a hot engine you'll be OK. Wouldn't use petrol though far too explosive.
Fair enough I suppose. Yes some forums are worse, like Barryboys for example. It's great fun though.
Steve.
I would think if you let the intercooler drain well then either sit it in the sun or on the top of a hot engine you'll be OK. Wouldn't use petrol though far too explosive.
Fair enough I suppose. Yes some forums are worse, like Barryboys for example. It's great fun though.
Steve.
not applicable
I cleaned up the intercooler when flushing the radiator among other repairs. I reroute the oil breather hose with piping to come out at the rear near the main exhaust. Now got 1 main exhaust and 1 mini exhaust. Toying with the idea of drilling a hole in the main exhaust at the bend 3 ft from the turbo exhaust, inserting a 2 foot 3/4" pipe and welding it in with 3 inches protruding out, and the breather hose inserted there. I think the exhaust gas will draw out the breather oil vapour and burn it up with the exhaust gas, instead of just letting the oil vapour out in the open air. What do you think? Will it work?
Xantia 1.9TD 1996
It'll pump exhaust back into the engine crankcase and it'll then leak far worse than it does now.
You could try and improve the oil separation - by for example passing the crankcase fumes into a suitably baffled can with a baffle system inside. If the fumes are directed at a plate at right angles to them they may drop the oil. If the chamber were then to expand the fume velocity would be lower and perhaps not sufficient to carry oil droplets. The oil could then drain back to the sump - even if this only happened when the car stopped.
If its fuming that much the chances are something is wrong - like broken piston rings or if you have an iron blocked engine the head gasket may have failed. (Alloy are wet liner engines with no top block face - so each bore is surrounded by water at the joint - so leakage here would mean gas in the cooling system. My BX TD blew its head gasket between 2 bores - and so there was no leakage to the outside. If you have a HG leak it must be into the oil return ducts.)
You could try and improve the oil separation - by for example passing the crankcase fumes into a suitably baffled can with a baffle system inside. If the fumes are directed at a plate at right angles to them they may drop the oil. If the chamber were then to expand the fume velocity would be lower and perhaps not sufficient to carry oil droplets. The oil could then drain back to the sump - even if this only happened when the car stopped.
If its fuming that much the chances are something is wrong - like broken piston rings or if you have an iron blocked engine the head gasket may have failed. (Alloy are wet liner engines with no top block face - so each bore is surrounded by water at the joint - so leakage here would mean gas in the cooling system. My BX TD blew its head gasket between 2 bores - and so there was no leakage to the outside. If you have a HG leak it must be into the oil return ducts.)
jeremy