Xantia 1.9TD with a/c, cam and aux belt change time

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PicassoPigeon
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Xantia 1.9TD with a/c, cam and aux belt change time

Post by PicassoPigeon »

Its time to change the belts on my xantia.I have done the aux belt before and will be doing the auto spring tensioner as well( i think my belt the last change was too small and has pulled the auto tensioner off line again, expensive mistake).

I thought it would be good to do the cam belt at the same time, so with my haynes to hand does anybody have a good run down for an easy ride(yeh right mr citroen has other ideas no doubt)
What size sockets do i need for cam belt covers and do i need a locking pin set to lock the timing.

Thanks for your help.
gav425
2002 Citroen Xsara Picasso 2.0HDi
125,000 miles
Stewart(oily)
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My Cars: Citroens since 1990, BX Diesel, GTI, TZD with 1.9 TD running extra boost before it was fashionable!, ZX Volcane TD, S2 Xantia break 1.9TD, Xantia HDI 110, currently zipping about in a C2 Diesel. C2 died from the dreaded worm, C3 Picasso HDI Exclusive, the adventure continues.
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Post by Stewart(oily) »

Lock timing with M8 bolts (X3) remove starter to get M8 stud in to lock flywheel (I use one with threads filed down a bit) Covers are a PITA to get off, cover bolts are mix of 10mm and the ***** one on the rear is 11mm , judiciously snap the lower cover in the right place and its possible to fit the new belt without removing the crank pulley (and refit the cover in 2 pieces :wink: ) New covers are flexible and not too dear
Stewart
BXs since 1993 built 1.9 TZD turbo, got a S2 Xantia estate, brilliant car! 2013, Xantia HDI LX 110 2000 new car with 122,000, l C2 HDI Rusty rocket, C3 Picasso HDI new to me.
andmcit
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Post by andmcit »

While you're there replace the water pump!!

Andrew
RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

16mm deep socket required to get the engine mount off, decent 22mm with 1/2" drive and big breaker required to get the crank pulley undone. As Stewart says the bolt down the back of the engine is a swine, and 11mm rather than 10 like all the others. The crank pulley is very tight, and loctited, so slacken it with the engine hot - it helps to soften the loctite. As this is probably the second change, I'd buy a new bolt - it's only a couple of quid and comes ready loctited.

I have a piece of 8mm threaded bar about 1m long with last 200mm or so bent up at about 20°, and the end chamfered. Slide this along the engine block in line with the gap between the starter motor and its solenoid. It should then pick up the guide and drop right into the timing hole. Using this method you can stand by the drivers wing, turn the engine via the front wheel with your left hand whilst pushing the rod with your right so that you get the timing hole first time (do it with the covers off, and you can watch the cam pulley - when the timing hole in this is at about 4 o'clock, you're in the right area) - you know you are in the hole and against the flywheel, as it will make a very distinct ringing sound.

Book time for a TD with A/C is 4 hours, so expect it take all day for your first one!
Richard W
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Do you need to get the pulley off the crankshaft? - you don't on a TD BX but that doesn't have a damped pulley. You do have to remove a small plastic cover held on with 2 bolts and then the belt can be maneuvered out and in without excessive twisting.
jeremy
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