Xantia strut top mount failure question

JohnW · Post by **JohnW** » 14 Jun 2007, 00:18

alan s wrote:
LeeDJC wrote:Perhaps if these were fitted in conjunction with new strut tops, it would reduce the stress on them, and they would go on forever!

Perhaps you could source the strut tops yourself, and get the strengthening part fabricated professionally, and sell the two together as a kit. I'd imagine this would go down a storm down there!
Have just placed this suggestion on aussiefrogs so I'll keep you informed of any response towards getting something improvised.

Alan S

Hi Alan,

I'd decided to do both in discussion with my friendly mechanic. I guess part of me is interested in running the old ones to failure to see how long they last in "well looked after" circumstances on a non-Hydractive car, but we both know the old ones will fail on Easter Sunday 500 km from home!!

Thanks to everyone for the various inputs.

JohnW

JohnW · Post by **JohnW** » 14 Jun 2007, 00:23

Mandrake wrote:
JohnW wrote:
My HA2 Xantia was 8 years old when I got it and one of the strut tops was alarmingly close to failure - the "round" rubber ring the gaters attach to was completely distorted on one of them, and there was very obvious cracking at the flexing points.

It wasn't a case of running them with flat spheres as all 3 suspension spheres on the front of my Xantia are the long life multilayer diaphram type - and they would have still had plenty of pressure in them at 8 years old.

On the other hand our other two Xantia's both non-Hydractive are now 13 and 14 years old respectively and the strut tops don't show any alarming signs of failure....

Regards,
Simon

Simon,

Have you done the straight edge test across from mudguard to mudguard on the other two cars? I have about 3-4 and6-7 mm clearance on left and right sides respectively and no obvious signs of trouble - wish I'd measured them a few years ago!

JohnW

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 14 Jun 2007, 08:12

i belive most car manufacturers build in expensive components to fail,then it makes it less viable to fix when the car gets to a certain age,this does not help the environment as all it dose ensure is the factorys keep churnning out
regards malcolm

KINGas · Post by **KINGas** » 13 Dec 2010, 10:33

We renew Citroen XM old broken strut mounts with polyurethane. Original shape, geometry and hardness retained. Improved inside construction now preventing from splitting strut mount into two parts in case of elastomer failure. Corrosion resistant coating applied. We can renew strut mounts even with corrosion hardly damaged lower plate and also remake drivers side to passengers side and vice versa. Two years warranty is applicable for our renewed strut mount!

We will also be able to renew Xantia strut mounts and almost any metal-elastomer automotive part.

We are located in Eastern Europe, Lithuania, Kaunas.

Find us on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/elastomer ... 6053327802
website: http://elastomer.eu/en/strut-mounts.html
email: info@elastomer.eu
or by phone: +370 699 69591

Sincerely,
Irmantas Galinis
www.elastomer.eu

Post by **CitroJim** » 13 Dec 2010, 12:58

Interesting

Thank you for posting this KINGas

Do you have the ability to manufacture the metal parts of the strut top? This, rather than the rubber, is the bit that usually fails on Xantia strut tops in the UK due to rust.

Can you give us an idea of the approximate cost?

KINGas · Post by **KINGas** » 13 Dec 2010, 13:13

As metal cone plates deteriorate unequally so we have to repair them by welding also individually. We will add welding or additional metal where needed.

Besides no rust problem will arise any more after our special, durable multilayer anticorrosive coating.

The price of XM strut head refurbishment is 60 EUR + VAT (21%). No price added for remaking drivers side to passengers or vice versa.

For Xantia strut top refurbishment price should be 50 EUR + VAT (21%)

We don't have in our stock already repaired strut heads for sale, so at the moment we can only repair your strut heads.
The shipping costs would be about £15 to one side and £15 backwards (The parcels are transported in a van once in 2 weeks): http://www.ritoma.co.uk/indexen-4.html
You can also order faster and a bit more expensive shipping.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 13 Dec 2010, 15:15

BLOODY HELL

about time. Look at those wonderfull prices!

Have you told Club-xm.com those good price's??

Paul

KINGas · Post by **KINGas** » 13 Dec 2010, 15:37

Thank you Paul for your comment.
I posted in Club-xm.com without prices, ok I will append them now

Post by **CitroJim** » 13 Dec 2010, 17:17

Thank you KINGas. those prices look very good.

I'm sure some orders will soon come your way. It is a prayer answered for the XM owners, that's for sure

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 16 Dec 2010, 09:35

i might be wrong but the only prob i can see with these strut tops is,

if you look at the one in the picy the guys thumb is pointting at, it looks like they weld 4 piece's of metal across from the domed section to the mountting plate,

the original make up of these strut tops there is two separate metal components bonded together by the rubber, this is to firstly give a bit of flex and secondly to help absourb road noise,

regards malcolm

KINGas · Post by **KINGas** » 16 Dec 2010, 09:53

There is welded additional metal, but there is enough of elastomer between both parts, ensuring flexibility.

In order to move this project our company will cover half of shipping costs (from UK to Lithuania) for UK customers but only till the end of this year! Prepare a package, give your address and our courier will take it from your door.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 16 Dec 2010, 19:12

if you weld the conned section to the mountting plate there wont be any flexabilaty (elastomer),

i also am aware someone has got to do something to save XM's and XANTS are heading the same way,

regards malcolm

KINGas · Post by **KINGas** » 16 Dec 2010, 19:34

Im not sure what do you mean by mounting plate.

Original construction:

1. The inner steel cylinder which sits on the strut.
2. The main clamping plate - the part which normally rusts and fails.
3. The solid rubber block that connects parts 1 and 2 together and will eventually/inevitably fail.
4. The steel dish.......
5. The top section which houses the hydraulic connections

In original the outside diameter of the bottom cylindrical part metal (#1) is 86 mm and inside diameter (hole) of cone/clamping plate (#2) ~88,3 mm so parts split (slide out) when rubber tears. So we eliminate this gap by welding additional metal rings on both parts and cylindrical part diameter becomes bigger than cone plates inside diameter. Still between metal parts there is enough of elastomer which provides elasticity. Elasticity tested by hand and on a road.

davewithington · Post by **davewithington** » 16 Dec 2010, 19:58

I've got a pair of VSX Mk 1 tops sitting in my garage.

Anyone fancy having a pair done (my cashflow situation is still tricky - job ends again on 7th Jan)

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 17 Dec 2010, 08:14

i always thoughgt 1 and 5 to be one piece, but even if the are not you are welding 1 to 2 which would originaly be bonded by the rubber block, and this would be what gives the flexabilaty,

regards malcolm