tracking... again

Post by **Peter.N.** » 13 Jun 2007, 11:51

The best way to make sure your tracking is correct is to do it yourself. I use a length of threaded rod with a couple of nuts, slid inside a length of metal tube. I adjust the length so that it just touches the tyres at the front, level with the bottom edge of the rim, then transfer it to the rear and see whether its tighter or there is a gap. Providing you can get the nuts on the track rods undone, you can adjust it in a few minutes. The adjustment is not that critical, if the setting is 'toe out' you only have to make sure that the bar fits slightly more tightly between the back inside edges that the front, and vice versa for toe in. You do need to have the car elevated so that you can get underneath, I have a ramp I can drive on to, but metal car ramps would do, also make sure the car is at normal ride height.

I have use this method with all my CXs and XMs over the last 20 years or so, and have never had a problem with uneven tyre wear.

deian · Post by **deian** » 13 Jun 2007, 12:52

Am I right in thinking that it's a good idea to get the front axle off the ground? You aren't working against the weight then are you. Simple things!!

As for the figures, they didn't have such data. Won't be going back there again, not even for fuel.

LeeDJC · Post by **LeeDJC** » 13 Jun 2007, 12:57

Surely you need the weight on the axle? After all it is when it's driving!

deian · Post by **deian** » 13 Jun 2007, 13:11

Yea, but when you're adjusting it with the wheels on the ground, you are working the thread against the weight of the car, where as if you the wheels are off, you do the adjustment, drop it, roll it back and forth a few times and it should be settled? They are just my ideas mind, I could be wrong myself.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 13 Jun 2007, 13:16

You must have the normal weight of the car on the ground, the tracking goes all over the place if you dont. That's one of the great bonuses of self leveling suspension, the wheels stay in track! On a car with conventional suspension, every time you change the weight in the car the tracking changes. So if you have your car tracked up in the garage, as soon as you get into it the tracking alters! After you have adjusted the track, you need to roll the car back and forwards again to take any stress out of the system before you check it.

deian · Post by **deian** » 13 Jun 2007, 13:20

Ok, so tracking ON the ground, on normal height, I can see the job becoming tedious. Oh how i'd love a pit!!

_kid_ · Post by **_kid_** » 13 Jun 2007, 13:30

a good website is http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/ for some basic details.

this guy is very highly rated on the http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum and seems to know what he is talking about.

i take it you had the 4 wheel alignment, which (if done correctly) should ensure the steering is centred.

When i has my xantia aligned form this garage (http://www.tyresgalore.co.uk) they charged £25 with a pre reading and post adjustment readout, only the front toe is adjustable on standard type xantia

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 13 Jun 2007, 13:50

Centre your rack and get yourself one of these: trakrite.

Iv'e had one for years and it's a wonderful thing that's paid for itself over and over again: very accurate and dead easy to use.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 13 Jun 2007, 14:30

Yep, that will do the job!

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 13 Jun 2007, 21:19

deian wrote:TRACKING FIGURES

0 to -3 mm
0° at -0°25'

Data
Wheel alignment Castor Camber King pin inclination
Steering Adjustable Not adjustable Not adjustable Not adjustable
Mechanical 0 to -3 mm 1 ° 0 ° 00 ' ± 30 ' 13 ° 20 '
Power assisted 0 ° 00 ' to -0 ° 25 ' 3 °

So it's up to -0°25'

And the -3mm is just for the non power steering then?

Where are those figures from ? I have to admit they are a little bit ambiguous in my book (the columns etc) so I've scanned the page to see if you or someone else can interpret them a bit better than me...

Now that I look at it again it looks like the toe-out is the SAME for all models ? I understand 0 to -3mm fine, but I don't understand what 0° at -0°25' means ? (Why not just a single angle figure ?)

Regards,
Simon

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 Jun 2007, 22:20

I'm with PeterN here using a simple and sensible approach.

Its a tedious timewaster to try get it right as pr specification tables.

You know the front wheels must be parrallel with a slight tendency towards toe-out. This is very easy to check using the simple tool as pr peterN. Of course the wheels must be turned straigth ahead by the steering wheel, height must be in normal, tyres correctly inflated and weight of car on wheels.

If & when it comes to adjusting, you simply back off the locknut on the tie rod, then adjust the length of the rod and re-tighten the locknut. Even dirty rusty tie-rod locknuts are surprisingly easy to unlock provided correct and well matching tools are used. Even easier if you WD40 it the day before.
Never do more than ½ turn of the tie-rod at one time for adjusting. Then testdrive the car before further adjustments. Its quite easy to overdo the job.

PS : On my BX with PAS, one ½ turn of the tie rod equals approx 3cm offsetting on the steering wheel. Thats how sensitive the adjustment is.

deian · Post by **deian** » 13 Jun 2007, 22:38

i got it from citroen pr net like you simon, i'm not sure what the -0°25' means either.

So it means it's EITHER -3mm or -0°25'? So -3mm from the middle towards the side, or from one end of the wheel to the other? I will tighten my passenger side in a bit tomorrow, to make the wheel come out a bit, it's nearly to the middle now, but it's a bit vague and to the right again.

So is it -3mm, or -1.5mm on each side? I understand the theory guys, but i still get confused.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 Jun 2007, 22:45

deian wrote:i got it from citroen pr net like you simon, i'm not sure what the -0°25' means either.

So it means it's EITHER -3mm or -0°25'? So -3mm from the middle towards the side, or from one end of the wheel to the other? I will tighten my passenger side in a bit tomorrow, to make the wheel come out a bit, it's nearly to the middle now, but it's a bit vague and to the right again.

So is it -3mm, or -1.5mm on each side? I understand the theory guys, but i still get confused.

The value in degrees is universal as pr the unit circle.
The value in mm's can only be at the tyre edge to make any sense.
It will be too much if measured at the rim edge or the difference in tierod length.
Note that a negative value is toe-out as pr the note given in the table above.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 14 Jun 2007, 08:26

try getting the tracking done at a propper long established garage,avouid tyre shops for this job,as its just as likely they will do it wrong to make your tyres wear out prematurly
regards malcolm

deian · Post by **deian** » 14 Jun 2007, 10:51

well i think it'll be a good idea to get 4 wheel tracking done, then at least the front will be centred with the back wheels, they should then go on to toe the wheels out.

I reckon a trip to ATS is needed, I need my front wheel balancing too.

How would worn drop links affect the tracking? I don't think it matters much myself.