thanks jim will have a look when wifey gets back from whereever she has disappeared too think i could be spending too much time under the bonnet or on the pc for her ladyship
thanks colin
removal of xantia front bumper help!!!!!!!!
Moderator: RichardW
One sure way to distinguish which gas is in it, is to look at the fittings on the compressor.
If they are straight out schraeder valves, then it was an R12 system, if they are a more bulky looking thing and one is blue whilst the other is red, then it's an #134a system (which I expect it will be.)
Given the age of these systems now and the fact that they have "O" rins at their fittings, I've found of late that it is far better to invest in a series of new neoprene "O" rings and fit them right through the system as well as a new receiver dryer when you've finished, than have these characters who are servicing them loading them up with tracer dye, not testing properly for leaks and only repairing the ones that are leaking at the time which results in an action replay the following year.
I'm using this in my cars now and it works far better than R134a and is far cheaper as a bonus.
http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&o ... reenfreeze
Forget the cock and bull stories about cars exploding and all that kind of crap being circulated by multi nationals promoting the petro chemical based stuff; this is as safe as a bank and far easier to adapt to various systems.
Alan S
If they are straight out schraeder valves, then it was an R12 system, if they are a more bulky looking thing and one is blue whilst the other is red, then it's an #134a system (which I expect it will be.)
Given the age of these systems now and the fact that they have "O" rins at their fittings, I've found of late that it is far better to invest in a series of new neoprene "O" rings and fit them right through the system as well as a new receiver dryer when you've finished, than have these characters who are servicing them loading them up with tracer dye, not testing properly for leaks and only repairing the ones that are leaking at the time which results in an action replay the following year.
I'm using this in my cars now and it works far better than R134a and is far cheaper as a bonus.
http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&o ... reenfreeze
Forget the cock and bull stories about cars exploding and all that kind of crap being circulated by multi nationals promoting the petro chemical based stuff; this is as safe as a bank and far easier to adapt to various systems.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
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hi alan
not too clued up on the a/c side of things always left it for the experts to sort out. the firm i hope to use was just a one man operation last time i used him and he didnt put dye in but went round the car with a leak detector and to be fair he told me where it was leaking (condensor) and i could not afford a new one so he just charged for degas and pressure testing
would like to put new drier on the xantia but i need it degassed first so caught between a rock and a hard place (wallet). would all the pipe connections need O rings or just the drier connections?
every thread i have looked at says that when the compressor kicks in it has a load click but when i short(complete) drier switch it cuts in quietly only noise is a hum as what i presume is the compressor turning.the outer pulley wheel is definitley turning as i can see it stop and start as i short the wires
is it possible the clutch has engaged but the compressor not running hope that is not the case compressors seem expensive
thanks in advance colin
not too clued up on the a/c side of things always left it for the experts to sort out. the firm i hope to use was just a one man operation last time i used him and he didnt put dye in but went round the car with a leak detector and to be fair he told me where it was leaking (condensor) and i could not afford a new one so he just charged for degas and pressure testing
would like to put new drier on the xantia but i need it degassed first so caught between a rock and a hard place (wallet). would all the pipe connections need O rings or just the drier connections?
every thread i have looked at says that when the compressor kicks in it has a load click but when i short(complete) drier switch it cuts in quietly only noise is a hum as what i presume is the compressor turning.the outer pulley wheel is definitley turning as i can see it stop and start as i short the wires
is it possible the clutch has engaged but the compressor not running hope that is not the case compressors seem expensive
thanks in advance colin
Sounds like you might have yourself a decent tradesman instead of the variety of cowboys who seem to dominate the industry these days.
The "O" rings are fitted to all the fittings usually and of late I've found quite a few that on Citroens are a bit rare (get the impresson they seemed like a good idea at the time) an example being one on the return line from the evaporator on a BX that is hard plastic and tapered and fits on the outside of the firewall. With the temperatures they live in, they seem to depress and leak in such a way that it can't be detected via tracer dye.
I've done a few now and just do the entire system over. For someone like yourself to get this done, the best approach might be to clear a path to the T/X valve and try to give access to as many fittings as possible.
The idea of replacing the receiver dryer is that if the system has a fairly large leak, then there's a good chance the system will be contaminated by moisture and after vacuuming, this is the best way to rid it of the balance.
Don't worry about the compressor being a bit quiet; it's not under any load which is why it's quiet. Once the system gets regassed, that sitiation will change.
Alan S
The "O" rings are fitted to all the fittings usually and of late I've found quite a few that on Citroens are a bit rare (get the impresson they seemed like a good idea at the time) an example being one on the return line from the evaporator on a BX that is hard plastic and tapered and fits on the outside of the firewall. With the temperatures they live in, they seem to depress and leak in such a way that it can't be detected via tracer dye.
I've done a few now and just do the entire system over. For someone like yourself to get this done, the best approach might be to clear a path to the T/X valve and try to give access to as many fittings as possible.
The idea of replacing the receiver dryer is that if the system has a fairly large leak, then there's a good chance the system will be contaminated by moisture and after vacuuming, this is the best way to rid it of the balance.
Don't worry about the compressor being a bit quiet; it's not under any load which is why it's quiet. Once the system gets regassed, that sitiation will change.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
-
- Donor 2023
- Posts: 2625
- Joined: 24 May 2007, 10:11
- Location: poole dorset uk
- Lexia Available: Yes
- My Cars: C5 X7 2009 2.0 HDI VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
C4 2010 2.0 HDi Exclusive VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] - x 378
sorry its taken so long but things seems to creep up and give you a kick the balls (and wallet) once in a while
just had a good look at aircon compressor and fittings
cant see any label red/green or otherwise but connectors on pipes leading to compressor have black covers which look like tyre valve covers why do i get the feeling its a late 1995 make with r 12 gas more expense
thanks colin
just had a good look at aircon compressor and fittings
cant see any label red/green or otherwise but connectors on pipes leading to compressor have black covers which look like tyre valve covers why do i get the feeling its a late 1995 make with r 12 gas more expense
thanks colin