so I'm not entirely surprised! Is there a sure way to diagnose? What's it like to change - I don't have the 2' long bearing puller advocated by the BOL 
(GSF bearing £10, shaft £115 - it's got ABS - got to worth a punt on changing it!)Noisy ZX
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Noisy ZX
Just been out in the ZX, and it's got quite noisy (yeah, more than normal!). It's a 'dry' whirring noise coming from the front, unaffected by power on / off, related to vehicle speed, and not changed on corners, so I guess it's the RH shaft inter bearing. It did need some persuasion to get the bearing out of the housing when we changed the clutch last year so I'm not entirely surprised! Is there a sure way to diagnose? What's it like to change - I don't have the 2' long bearing puller advocated by the BOL (GSF bearing £10, shaft £115 - it's got ABS - got to worth a punt on changing it!)
so I'm not entirely surprised! Is there a sure way to diagnose? What's it like to change - I don't have the 2' long bearing puller advocated by the BOL (GSF bearing £10, shaft £115 - it's got ABS - got to worth a punt on changing it!)Richard W
The bearing is an industry standard type 6006-ZZ, which decodes to 30mm inner, 55mm outer and 13mm depth, steel dust protectors both sides. (type -2RS rubber dust protectors will do as well)
It is used on all XU & TU engines.
heat it, heat it, heat it ....
Then quickly prise it back, together with the lockring, using 2 solid levers in parallel action.
You only need to fight some 1-2" of moving it back to the thinner part of the axle.
New bearing on : gently heat it in an oven to no more than 100degC. Then quickly slide it over the cleaned steeped part of the axle.
The lockring : heat it, heat it, heat it and push it into place.
Done
.... ehhh for the bearing part at least
Ensure the housing will take the new bearing without hammering and swearing. Clean & lube the housing inner such the bearing easily taps in. Its the L-formed bolts that are supposed to hold the bearing.
Remember the weird dirt deflector dish before the axle is inserted into the diff - how do I know
8)
It is used on all XU & TU engines.
heat it, heat it, heat it ....
Then quickly prise it back, together with the lockring, using 2 solid levers in parallel action.
You only need to fight some 1-2" of moving it back to the thinner part of the axle.
New bearing on : gently heat it in an oven to no more than 100degC. Then quickly slide it over the cleaned steeped part of the axle.
The lockring : heat it, heat it, heat it and push it into place.
Done
.... ehhh for the bearing part at least
Ensure the housing will take the new bearing without hammering and swearing. Clean & lube the housing inner such the bearing easily taps in. Its the L-formed bolts that are supposed to hold the bearing.
Remember the weird dirt deflector dish before the axle is inserted into the diff - how do I know
8)Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
Well -
Then heat to a lower temp then
Its exactly Malcolms method that learned me that there GOT to be an easier method
Malcolm : the bearing and grease can take quite som high temperatures without any damage at all. From memory (please correct me !) the standard bearings (and grease) spec ranges up to at least 110degC working temp, i.e. bearing loaded and spinning.
But its not heated during any load condition here.
Then heat to a lower temp then
Its exactly Malcolms method that learned me that there GOT to be an easier method
Malcolm : the bearing and grease can take quite som high temperatures without any damage at all. From memory (please correct me !) the standard bearings (and grease) spec ranges up to at least 110degC working temp, i.e. bearing loaded and spinning.
But its not heated during any load condition here.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image