Is the height corrector an easy item to take appart and clean? For instance, if i take it off, there won't be any springs or washers that could fall off and be impossible to put back on? Are there any guides or pictures? I'm assuming by the other pictures in this post, it's just a sliding metal shaft with machines groves that open give access to the lhm from the various pipe inlets?
The rubber boot on the back of mine is really clean and the metal is shiny (as new) behind the boot.
Nice to see you mandrake, where u been?
Xantia: Low back side
Moderator: RichardW
You mean like this ?deian wrote:Is the height corrector an easy item to take appart and clean? For instance, if i take it off, there won't be any springs or washers that could fall off and be impossible to put back on? Are there any guides or pictures?
http://homepages.igrin.co.nz/simon/imag ... rector.jpg
(Yes its a CX one but they're basically identical)
There are two springs but they're very soft - just take note of the order of dissassembly, there is a spring, a washer, and a circlip on each side which have to go back in the right order. (And the spring should be the right way around)
Also if you take the control shaft right out try not to scratch it in any way (even laying it on a table) as it is machined to 10 microns.
There are no "impossible to reassemble" traps, if thats what you're worried about.
Thats pretty much it.I'm assuming by the other pictures in this post, it's just a sliding metal shaft with machines groves that open give access to the lhm from the various pipe inlets?
I've been around! There just havn't been many threads that pique my interest...The rubber boot on the back of mine is really clean and the metal is shiny (as new) behind the boot.
Nice to see you mandrake, where u been?
(As soon as I read about non hydraulic models of cit, or diesel engines I switch off
)Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Hi Deian
First you have to remove it from the spring bracket/cradle, and unlike the one on the picture a Xantia height corrector has a flat stalk sticking out one end with an elongated slot in it - although there is a nut that appears to hold this stalk on, don't bother trying to undo it - its very tight and there is no need to remove it.
On the opposite end (left on the picture) there is a dust cover - just pull that off and you'll see a thicker inner rubber cup with a nut - undo that nut and lift the metal plate off. You'll see a metal band around the outside over the edge of the rubber cup - use a small screwdriver to prise this away from the body of the height corrrector and the ring will pop off.
Now you can prise the rubber cup away from the edges (theres a slight groove) and lift it out entirely and you'll see the insides of one end. It will be completely full of oil. There will be another metal plate on the inside of the rubber cup, and a spring - take note of which way around the spring is.
At the other end (right in the picture) you can do the same thing prising the metal band away from the outside so the rubber is free at the edges.
Then on the left again you'll see a flat washer with a circlip - if you remove the circlip and the washer you'll be able to grasp the other end and withdraw the shaft from the height corrector body - make a note of which end you removed it from!
Don't scratch the active surfaces of the shaft, and its fine for the purposes of cleaning for the shaft to stay bolted to the end cap.
Just give things a really good clean and reassemble it with a little bit of light grease on the shaft (or LHM) and refit it.
You'll have to readjust the ride height and manual override when its refitted - ride height you probably already know how to do - manual override is done like this:
After normal ride height has been set, with the console lever it its normal position look for the elongated slot in the spring cradle that goes to the manual override linkage - it should be in the middle. If its not, loosen the bolt on the clamp on the rod that goes towards the front of the car and slide it until the peg is in the middle of the slot, and retighten. Thats all!
(If you took the whole height corrector cradle out you will have disconnected this manual override clamp entirely)
By the way, when you first refit the height corrector it will respond VERY fast, as it will not (yet) be full of oil. This is normal, and after a period of use (typically 30 or more operations) or a few hours of driving the 5-10 second delay time will suddenly return.
Because of this lack of delay your initial height setting might not be quite right - so if you're a fusspot (like me ) you probably want to recheck the ride height a few days later after the delay time is back and it has settled down.
Not a difficult job, just take it carefully and step by step if you havn't done one before. I find having a digital camera handy to take photos during disassembly helps when it comes time to put something together again!!
Regards,
Simon
First you have to remove it from the spring bracket/cradle, and unlike the one on the picture a Xantia height corrector has a flat stalk sticking out one end with an elongated slot in it - although there is a nut that appears to hold this stalk on, don't bother trying to undo it - its very tight and there is no need to remove it.
On the opposite end (left on the picture) there is a dust cover - just pull that off and you'll see a thicker inner rubber cup with a nut - undo that nut and lift the metal plate off. You'll see a metal band around the outside over the edge of the rubber cup - use a small screwdriver to prise this away from the body of the height corrrector and the ring will pop off.
Now you can prise the rubber cup away from the edges (theres a slight groove) and lift it out entirely and you'll see the insides of one end. It will be completely full of oil. There will be another metal plate on the inside of the rubber cup, and a spring - take note of which way around the spring is.
At the other end (right in the picture) you can do the same thing prising the metal band away from the outside so the rubber is free at the edges.
Then on the left again you'll see a flat washer with a circlip - if you remove the circlip and the washer you'll be able to grasp the other end and withdraw the shaft from the height corrector body - make a note of which end you removed it from!
Don't scratch the active surfaces of the shaft, and its fine for the purposes of cleaning for the shaft to stay bolted to the end cap.
Just give things a really good clean and reassemble it with a little bit of light grease on the shaft (or LHM) and refit it.
You'll have to readjust the ride height and manual override when its refitted - ride height you probably already know how to do - manual override is done like this:
After normal ride height has been set, with the console lever it its normal position look for the elongated slot in the spring cradle that goes to the manual override linkage - it should be in the middle. If its not, loosen the bolt on the clamp on the rod that goes towards the front of the car and slide it until the peg is in the middle of the slot, and retighten. Thats all!
(If you took the whole height corrector cradle out you will have disconnected this manual override clamp entirely)
By the way, when you first refit the height corrector it will respond VERY fast, as it will not (yet) be full of oil. This is normal, and after a period of use (typically 30 or more operations) or a few hours of driving the 5-10 second delay time will suddenly return.
Because of this lack of delay your initial height setting might not be quite right - so if you're a fusspot (like me
) you probably want to recheck the ride height a few days later after the delay time is back and it has settled down.Not a difficult job, just take it carefully and step by step if you havn't done one before. I find having a digital camera handy to take photos during disassembly helps when it comes time to put something together again!!
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
So i could do the manual override just to keep it comfy and at the right height until I get the big job done (this weekend I hope)?
I've invented my own manual override technique that works well, here goes:
1. start engine and wait until the front settles (the back will be down),
2. move height selector to intermediate height and wait for the back to lift up to desired height,
3. then move selector back to normal position, drive off
...it works for me, (be wary if you do it yourself, you may damage something somehow). I reckon it works by pumping just enough fluid into the rear struts to achieve correct(ish) height for comfortable ride, the height then stays like this because the engine is running so the pressure is constant, there is no height correction, so it won't sink down or lift up, today i had the best ride ever from the car using this technique, maybe it was just by chance i got the right height.
I also think the height corrector was the cause of my 'rough ride' by causing an incorrect height so the spheres weren't at their optimum balance of nitrogen/lhm (which i'm sure many of you remember me going on and on and on and on about), so i'll get this hc fixed, lube the front one, and put new centre spheres front and back. The smallest things can make the biggest difference.
I've invented my own manual override technique that works well, here goes:
1. start engine and wait until the front settles (the back will be down),
2. move height selector to intermediate height and wait for the back to lift up to desired height,
3. then move selector back to normal position, drive off
...it works for me, (be wary if you do it yourself, you may damage something somehow). I reckon it works by pumping just enough fluid into the rear struts to achieve correct(ish) height for comfortable ride, the height then stays like this because the engine is running so the pressure is constant, there is no height correction, so it won't sink down or lift up, today i had the best ride ever from the car using this technique, maybe it was just by chance i got the right height.
I also think the height corrector was the cause of my 'rough ride' by causing an incorrect height so the spheres weren't at their optimum balance of nitrogen/lhm (which i'm sure many of you remember me going on and on and on and on about), so i'll get this hc fixed, lube the front one, and put new centre spheres front and back. The smallest things can make the biggest difference.
The link below may be useful for reference purposes:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138760
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138760
What you have done is fine - if the automatic linkage (plastic link, rollbar clamp) are broken you can still manually control the height with the height lever and as you discovered it will go up when you lift it up, down when you move it down, and in the centre position it will stay at whatever height you left it at. (For a while anyway)deian wrote:So i could do the manual override just to keep it comfy and at the right height until I get the big job done (this weekend I hope)?
I've invented my own manual override technique that works well, here goes:
1. start engine and wait until the front settles (the back will be down),
2. move height selector to intermediate height and wait for the back to lift up to desired height,
3. then move selector back to normal position, drive off
...it works for me, (be wary if you do it yourself, you may damage something somehow). I reckon it works by pumping just enough fluid into the rear struts to achieve correct(ish) height for comfortable ride, the height then stays like this because the engine is running so the pressure is constant, there is no height correction, so it won't sink down or lift up, today i had the best ride ever from the car using this technique, maybe it was just by chance i got the right height.
So you use the lever to manipulate the height at the end that is broken to a drivable height and then set the lever back to the middle which will allow the other end of the car to also return to a normal ride height.
I did this myself to get home when the clip on the front height corrector jumped off.
You just need to be aware of the fact that without automatic correction, the height will gradually decrease as you drive for two reasons - one is leakage through the height corrector, and the other is that applying the brakes draws a small amount of fluid from the rear suspension to operate the rear brakes.
The leakage is such that the height would be significantly low in about half an hour - so if you had a long way to get home you would need to stop and adjust the height about every half hour. (Or when it started feeling bumpy again) Every time you apply the brakes hard you'd probably lose about 1-2mm of height from the rear suspension as well. (Very approximate)
The ride height is rather fussy when it comes to getting a good balance between ride comfort and handling. (I'm not sure why its quite as fussy as it is - I notice the difference with just 10-20mm of difference in height, which is a small percentage of the total available travel)I also think the height corrector was the cause of my 'rough ride' by causing an incorrect height so the spheres weren't at their optimum balance of nitrogen/lhm (which i'm sure many of you remember me going on and on and on and on about), so i'll get this hc fixed, lube the front one, and put new centre spheres front and back. The smallest things can make the biggest difference.
Generally if the height is too low the ride will become harsh and bouncy, while if its too high it might feel a bit floaty and unstable around the corners. (Although if it is so high that it is almost touching the top limit stops it will again become harsh and bouncy)
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Yes, you are spot on there, it does feel bumpier and bumpier after braking, although on my journeys to and from work 20mins, it holds well.
As for the fussy ride height, the quoted height for the back of my car is 425mm+7/-10mm, so thats a tolerance of 17mm, so your figures go well. Do you have green blood or something Simon?
As mentioned before, it's a guess as to whether the correct height is reached by guessing. But this morning it blew me away on how amazingly smooth it was. It's never been like that before, imagine new sphere all round???? Madness. So I've learned the best lesson of hydractive citroen cars... get the height spot on and you will never sell your hydropneumatic car. Well a V6 would be nice.
Oh and something else too... the difference between hard and soft with the suspension on the correct height was a LOT more noticeable, I think the back of my car has been tilting too much on the corners (anti-roll bar not affecting the seized height corrector for correct height, hence bad suspension on corner roll), today i flicked the switch and took a corner and it was very responsive and quite level, i then threw it around the next one and i laughed to myself it was so good. Sod an activa, this'll do me fine! Where's that V6 though
Thanks for your input Simon, I enjoy reading them.
As for the fussy ride height, the quoted height for the back of my car is 425mm+7/-10mm, so thats a tolerance of 17mm, so your figures go well. Do you have green blood or something Simon?
As mentioned before, it's a guess as to whether the correct height is reached by guessing. But this morning it blew me away on how amazingly smooth it was. It's never been like that before, imagine new sphere all round???? Madness. So I've learned the best lesson of hydractive citroen cars... get the height spot on and you will never sell your hydropneumatic car. Well a V6 would be nice.
Oh and something else too... the difference between hard and soft with the suspension on the correct height was a LOT more noticeable, I think the back of my car has been tilting too much on the corners (anti-roll bar not affecting the seized height corrector for correct height, hence bad suspension on corner roll), today i flicked the switch and took a corner and it was very responsive and quite level, i then threw it around the next one and i laughed to myself it was so good. Sod an activa, this'll do me fine! Where's that V6 though
Thanks for your input Simon, I enjoy reading them.
Yeah it does sound like the rear ride hight was not being maintained properly before. Good luck with sorting it out!
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
-
citroenxm
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Hi All
With reference to SLIM123 's picture on the firstpage that shows the broken CLAMP ... You might find that the height corrector IS NOT TO BLAME!!!
I'va had three of these break on me, not all my cars, and found that its siezure of the linkage that connects to the Height corrector!!!
That linakge in the FIRST Picture in SLIM123's post, near the bottom shows a type or open square camp, that whole mechanism should be free to move!!
If it cannot move to places too much stress on the Clip, hence it popping off, retaining it with Cable ties, the strain has to go else where, so the Clamp breaks in the weakest part.
God damm, I aint got no pics to show what I mean!!
MAKE sure the spring loaded linkage is all freed up before refitting it to the car, or you'll be changing another clip or clamp again soon!
Regards
citroenxm
With reference to SLIM123 's picture on the firstpage that shows the broken CLAMP ... You might find that the height corrector IS NOT TO BLAME!!!
I'va had three of these break on me, not all my cars, and found that its siezure of the linkage that connects to the Height corrector!!!
That linakge in the FIRST Picture in SLIM123's post, near the bottom shows a type or open square camp, that whole mechanism should be free to move!!
If it cannot move to places too much stress on the Clip, hence it popping off, retaining it with Cable ties, the strain has to go else where, so the Clamp breaks in the weakest part.
God damm, I aint got no pics to show what I mean!!
MAKE sure the spring loaded linkage is all freed up before refitting it to the car, or you'll be changing another clip or clamp again soon!
Regards
citroenxm
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
-
citroenxm
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
deian wrote:so you're saying the link snapped because i have a seized height corrector? i guess i'll rebuild mine, or even get one from the scrappied to rebuild then replace mine, and rebuild mine as a spare.
No Diean,
it broke because the linkage is all siezed up!
Free it all up, it should move smoothly against the height corrector!!!
I've had three do this on me..
Good luck!
citroenxm
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
You're absolutely right, a "seized" height corrector can't cause the clip to pop off or the clamp to break, it will be the spring linkage seizing, and I've had this "discussion" on the forum before, but not many people believed mecitroenxm wrote:Hi All
With reference to SLIM123 's picture on the firstpage that shows the broken CLAMP ... You might find that the height corrector IS NOT TO BLAME!!!
I'va had three of these break on me, not all my cars, and found that its siezure of the linkage that connects to the Height corrector!!!
That linakge in the FIRST Picture in SLIM123's post, near the bottom shows a type or open square camp, that whole mechanism should be free to move!!
If it cannot move to places too much stress on the Clip, hence it popping off, retaining it with Cable ties, the strain has to go else where, so the Clamp breaks in the weakest part.
God damm, I aint got no pics to show what I mean!!
MAKE sure the spring loaded linkage is all freed up before refitting it to the car, or you'll be changing another clip or clamp again soon!
Regards
citroenxm
(I won't go into a long explanation of why, thats already played out in a couple of other threads)
So as far as preventing it failing again, you're dead right, the spring unit needs cleaning/lubricating so that it moves freely, and possibly even replacing if its beyond salvage.
Having said that, he was also having problems with the ride which sound a bit like inconsistently maintained ride height, and a "seized" height corrector can certainly cause that - if it gets full of sludge in the damper ports it can make it overshoot or undershoot height corrections, intermitantly correct to the wrong height, or unusually slow to respond to height errors.
Unlike the external spring unit which will be rusted the inside of the height corrector should be fine - at worst it might have some sludge deposits from the oil, or there may be nothing wrong with it at all. If it was my car I would be checking both to be thorough.
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Well i will take it all HC housing off this weekend, to clean all the linkages, and i won't take the acutal height corrector appart, if it's dirty inside then hydraflush will be needed to sort that one out i think
so thanks to you all for the input, i got three new seals for when the pipes go back on after carefully taking it off (more plusgas tonight, and some heat on it before trying), and i'm getting the new link/clamp tomorrow yay!
So any ideas on how to get the height correct without going to the garage and putting it on ramps? i fiddle the clamp on the antiroll bar right? of course i know the dangers, but feel free to put up the classic "warning", sod it i'll do it...
WARNING: Do not ever go under an unsupported hydropneumatic/hydractive citroen (or any car) without any support such as "axle stands" (i personally use hefty blocks of wood cut to the correct height and wedged into sensible locations)... also remember never to go under a car that is lifted by a scissor jack or hydraulic jack as these can also fail or tip over (changing a wheel is ok of course)!
Nice to see you show ur face paul, u fixed the beast yet?
so thanks to you all for the input, i got three new seals for when the pipes go back on after carefully taking it off (more plusgas tonight, and some heat on it before trying), and i'm getting the new link/clamp tomorrow yay!
So any ideas on how to get the height correct without going to the garage and putting it on ramps? i fiddle the clamp on the antiroll bar right? of course i know the dangers, but feel free to put up the classic "warning", sod it i'll do it...
WARNING: Do not ever go under an unsupported hydropneumatic/hydractive citroen (or any car) without any support such as "axle stands" (i personally use hefty blocks of wood cut to the correct height and wedged into sensible locations)... also remember never to go under a car that is lifted by a scissor jack or hydraulic jack as these can also fail or tip over (changing a wheel is ok of course)!
Nice to see you show ur face paul, u fixed the beast yet?
Just to say that in the past I have fitted loads of these height correctors and it is the cradle linkages that cause the problems, but as for scrabbling about trying to fix the thing???? Why not just get another? They aint expensive and it will be 1.5 hrs work, job done, smother the thing in spray on grease every 6 months and no more problems.
Have a look at the picture of the cradle, in your previous post (6) These things are rivited together, so if you grind off the rivits to strip and clean it, how are you going to hold it back together? As said I have seen lots of these things and it is certainly not beyond me to clean them up and sort them, but for the time taken, it just aint worth it.
Regards
Slim.
Have a look at the picture of the cradle, in your previous post (6) These things are rivited together, so if you grind off the rivits to strip and clean it, how are you going to hold it back together? As said I have seen lots of these things and it is certainly not beyond me to clean them up and sort them, but for the time taken, it just aint worth it.
Regards
Slim.
i got all weekend, and the next few months are on a budget, they are £72 from Pleiades and u get £10 back if u give em ur old one... i'm not going to take it appart obviously, just clean and start moving the parts, abit of WD40 and a screw driver to gentle start off the movements, etc etc, it will be done.