Hi all,
Good to have found a good bunch of people with knowledge of french cars which I do not have much of...
I have my very first Citroen 2 weeks back and I have been stitched up big time by the trader and now left with the car and he refuses to rectify any problems or give me any money back...
Well, its not a large amount of dosh and I guess I will have to put up with it rather than taking legal actions.
Anyway, I have a xsara HDI 110 with auto box. WE bought it purely because we have been looking for a smallish car, diesel and auto and not too old. and this one came along and I thought that was the one.. God knows after having it just a few days, one problem after another appeared..
Long Story short.
My mileometer does not show any digits at all and I wonder if I can buy another dash may be from a different range and adopt it on my somehow, as the deal is trying to flog me a whole dash (whole unit with rev counter , lights etc..) for lots..
The central locking locks then unlocks, I have been trying to find a broken wire but they seem fine, so I dunno where to look..
The electric window (driver) has packed up which I took the door cards off today and I think the motor has gone, as there is power from the plug to the motor..
Now this is the funny one.. Intermittently the car will refuse to rev over about 3800 rpm... so it does not go up , and stuck there.. If i am in low gear.. then i will be stuck at 20 mph.. I can accomodate this but the missus finds it hard to back off and let the gear change takes place so its quite dangerous for her. What is the problem of this?
I think the heater matrix or along that area is leaking as the front carpets are soaked with antir freeze and you can smell it once you have the heater on..
The bloody exhaust snapped off yesterday too along the cat area and what a stupid design that the downpipe and the cat is all in one... Pattern part and trade to me still 100 quid...
Lastly, can someone tell me how the door locks works in conjunction with the interior lights.. certainly every door that i open the cabin lights come on but not the drive door.. and I cannot find any switches whatsoever..
#
Sorry to be a long post but I am just one very annoyed citroen newbie and want the car to be as perfect as poss..
thanks for your help.
Hi All, Newbie with loads of prob on the xsara HDI
Moderator: RichardW
Re: Hi All, Newbie with loads of prob on the xsara HDI
Don't put up with it ! Go to a solicitor. You should not have to deal with problems like this at your own expense when you buy a car from a motor trader.josewick wrote: I have my very first Citroen 2 weeks back and I have been stitched up big time by the trader and now left with the car and he refuses to rectify any problems or give me any money back...
Well, its not a large amount of dosh and I guess I will have to put up with it rather than taking legal actions.
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CitroJim
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Hi Josewick and welcome to the forum!
What a sad tale
I see where you're coming from and I thnk we have all been there at some time in or lives. I once bought a Vauxhall Viva..
It makes me
though.
Anyway, to your problems.
Mileometer: Does the speedo work OK? If so, it's just the module that has failed. I think they're common across all later PSA vehicles and if you are careful and can do a bit of electronics I reckon it can be swapped over. I've never ben there but I had loads of older instrument packs in bits. Does it light up? You just may fine this dealer of yours tried to "Clock" it and left it disconnected.
Central Locking: If it locks and then immediately unlocks again, it thinks there is a door open. This'll all be tied in with why your interior lights are doing funnies. Courtesy switches and wiring are the most likely. It could also be damp under the carpets having got into the electrics. A lot of it lives under the carpets and if the Xsara is like a Xantia, they love leaking!!
This could be connected to the heater matrix but hopefully not. Is the damp you can feel anti-freeze or pure water. If the latter you have a massive leak. Heater matrixes give themselves away by making the interior smell funny with the heater on. Some describe it as a "curry" smell. I just call it an anti-freeze smell but you know what I mean.
Electric Window: I'd be surprised if the motor has gone. More likely the switch or a jammed mechanism. Swap it over for a known good one from the opposite side if you can. Again, if it is like my Xants, the Drivers one is an "Auto" one and is controlled by a little ECU somewhere. It culd be another problem caused by damp getting in the wiring under the carpets.
I'm afraid I can be of no help whatsoever on the HDi rev problem. My knowledge stops at the older XUD engines unfortunately.
Hope that helps a little...
What a sad tale
I see where you're coming from and I thnk we have all been there at some time in or lives. I once bought a Vauxhall Viva..It makes me
though.Anyway, to your problems.
Mileometer: Does the speedo work OK? If so, it's just the module that has failed. I think they're common across all later PSA vehicles and if you are careful and can do a bit of electronics I reckon it can be swapped over. I've never ben there but I had loads of older instrument packs in bits. Does it light up? You just may fine this dealer of yours tried to "Clock" it and left it disconnected.
Central Locking: If it locks and then immediately unlocks again, it thinks there is a door open. This'll all be tied in with why your interior lights are doing funnies. Courtesy switches and wiring are the most likely. It could also be damp under the carpets having got into the electrics. A lot of it lives under the carpets and if the Xsara is like a Xantia, they love leaking!!
This could be connected to the heater matrix but hopefully not. Is the damp you can feel anti-freeze or pure water. If the latter you have a massive leak. Heater matrixes give themselves away by making the interior smell funny with the heater on. Some describe it as a "curry" smell. I just call it an anti-freeze smell but you know what I mean.
Electric Window: I'd be surprised if the motor has gone. More likely the switch or a jammed mechanism. Swap it over for a known good one from the opposite side if you can. Again, if it is like my Xants, the Drivers one is an "Auto" one and is controlled by a little ECU somewhere. It culd be another problem caused by damp getting in the wiring under the carpets.
I'm afraid I can be of no help whatsoever on the HDi rev problem. My knowledge stops at the older XUD engines unfortunately.
Hope that helps a little...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
thanks Jim
the mileometer has lost most dashes and lines... so you canot guess what the numbers are.. but everything else in the dash works perfectly
yes its leaking antifreeze now.. cos i can smell it.. i have just put a bottl eof rad weld and seee if it will work..
Still no hope in the central locking and curtesey light.. it will be a long job to trace all the eclectrics.. unless someone here has a diagram...
Oh well.. i am annoyed.. but have to live with ..
cheers
the mileometer has lost most dashes and lines... so you canot guess what the numbers are.. but everything else in the dash works perfectly
yes its leaking antifreeze now.. cos i can smell it.. i have just put a bottl eof rad weld and seee if it will work..
Still no hope in the central locking and curtesey light.. it will be a long job to trace all the eclectrics.. unless someone here has a diagram...
Oh well.. i am annoyed.. but have to live with ..
cheers
A favourite area for problems with the central locking is the bundle of wires with the plug in connector near the drivers door hinges. The stresses of the door opening & closing can cause these wires to break, which could also lead to the problem you are having with the courtesy light. The door lock mechanisms themselves can be quite troublesome too apparently.
I hope you got this car at a very reasonable price. I appreciate what you mean about just wanting to get it sorted, but I would be furious if I had that response from dealer. Was it sold to you "as seen" on trade terms?
I got my Xsara from auction last year at about £1000-1500 below retail price so can live with one or two niggles. So far its been pretty good, I've had the problem with the exhaust cat/downpipe, but replacing it cured a poor performance/economy problem. Also had to replace the rear brake pads but for £15ish (DIY) I can't complain.
I hope you got this car at a very reasonable price. I appreciate what you mean about just wanting to get it sorted, but I would be furious if I had that response from dealer. Was it sold to you "as seen" on trade terms?
I got my Xsara from auction last year at about £1000-1500 below retail price so can live with one or two niggles. So far its been pretty good, I've had the problem with the exhaust cat/downpipe, but replacing it cured a poor performance/economy problem. Also had to replace the rear brake pads but for £15ish (DIY) I can't complain.
josewick,
Don't bother getting a new cat for the exhaust. Try and get a good independent to weld a straight through pipe in its place.
Yes I know the Greens will have a go at me, seriously though in your position you don't need it. (MOT only requires a smoke test)
Has the rad weld cured your leak? This will probably be your biggest job if you have to replace the heater matrix!!!!
I believe when Citroen design their cars they start with the Matrix 1st and then build around it. It's a Bas**d!
Not sure about the reving engine. Check all the obvious stuff 1st, fuel and air filters. Have you got any engine lights on the dash? Is it in limp home mode? What do you have to do to clear the fault?
So many questions sorry.
Regards
Don't bother getting a new cat for the exhaust. Try and get a good independent to weld a straight through pipe in its place.
Yes I know the Greens will have a go at me, seriously though in your position you don't need it. (MOT only requires a smoke test)
Has the rad weld cured your leak? This will probably be your biggest job if you have to replace the heater matrix!!!!
I believe when Citroen design their cars they start with the Matrix 1st and then build around it. It's a Bas**d!
Not sure about the reving engine. Check all the obvious stuff 1st, fuel and air filters. Have you got any engine lights on the dash? Is it in limp home mode? What do you have to do to clear the fault?
So many questions sorry.
Regards
Howie
2006 Fiat Idea Dynamic 1.3 Multijet
2010 Renault Laguna Dynamique tom tom 2.0 DCI 130
C5 VTR 2l 8v HDI Estate 112000 miles gone
Kia Rio 2007 1.5 CRDI 62,000 miles gone
2001 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 170,000 miles gone
1999 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6 V8 151,000 miles gone
2006 Fiat Idea Dynamic 1.3 Multijet
2010 Renault Laguna Dynamique tom tom 2.0 DCI 130
C5 VTR 2l 8v HDI Estate 112000 miles gone
Kia Rio 2007 1.5 CRDI 62,000 miles gone
2001 Dodge Durango 4.7 V8 170,000 miles gone
1999 Ford Crown Victoria 4.6 V8 151,000 miles gone
Assuming you are in the UK, then contact your local trading standards office. This is what they are there for, and their action might help you, and will also help all the other people this trader is going to con in the future. Very likely they already know of him. Your local council office will have the phone number. Or look them up on the web.
http://www.tradingstandards.gov.uk/cons ... sumers.cfm
or
http://www.consumerdirect.gov.uk/
Your rights when buying from a dealer
When buying from a dealer, the law says a car must be:
Of satisfactory quality. It must meet the standard a reasonable person would regard as acceptable, bearing in mind the way it was described, how much it cost, the age and the mileage on the vehicle. Amongst other things, this covers the appearance and finish of the car, its safety and its durability. The car must be free from defects, except when they were pointed out to you by the seller.
As described. If the advert states “air conditioning and CD player” then the car should come with these features and they should be working.
Reasonably fit for any normal purpose. It should get you from A to B.
Reasonably fit for any other purpose you specify to the seller. For example, towing a caravan.
How was the car described to you?
The "supply of goods and services regulations 2002" state that any fault which occurs within the first 6 months is deemed to have been there when purchased, unless the vendor can PROVE otherwise. This was told to me by my TSO when I had a fault with a second hand car bought from a trader, so it does not just apply to new items.
As far as the door locks are concerned, the latches have switches in them to confirm that the door is closed properly. One of these is giving the wrong signal. Possibly some wd 40 sprayed into the lock mechanism on all doors might help.
http://www.tradingstandards.gov.uk/cons ... sumers.cfm
or
http://www.consumerdirect.gov.uk/
Your rights when buying from a dealer
When buying from a dealer, the law says a car must be:
Of satisfactory quality. It must meet the standard a reasonable person would regard as acceptable, bearing in mind the way it was described, how much it cost, the age and the mileage on the vehicle. Amongst other things, this covers the appearance and finish of the car, its safety and its durability. The car must be free from defects, except when they were pointed out to you by the seller.
As described. If the advert states “air conditioning and CD player” then the car should come with these features and they should be working.
Reasonably fit for any normal purpose. It should get you from A to B.
Reasonably fit for any other purpose you specify to the seller. For example, towing a caravan.
How was the car described to you?
The "supply of goods and services regulations 2002" state that any fault which occurs within the first 6 months is deemed to have been there when purchased, unless the vendor can PROVE otherwise. This was told to me by my TSO when I had a fault with a second hand car bought from a trader, so it does not just apply to new items.
As far as the door locks are concerned, the latches have switches in them to confirm that the door is closed properly. One of these is giving the wrong signal. Possibly some wd 40 sprayed into the lock mechanism on all doors might help.
Thanks for all the info guys.. That will make me a very busy day tomorrow to try it all out..
with regards to the car, i paid 2k for a y plate auto HDI that claims to have 60k miles but i have no way to verify it as the mileometer is busted. the price is not bad as everywhere else #(if there is an auto) is selling at 2500.. However, I would rather pay 2500 to get one that is known working..
I looked at the loom of wires to the drivers door and they all seem ok.
I have someone welded the pipe back on now and I slipped him a 20 quid.. but the worse part was i had to get the downpipe off and I had to work on the street which i have not done for AGESSSSSSSS ...
Regards with the trading std.. I will have a word and see where I std.. Unfortunately, the guy is only a trader working from home with no forecourt....and the time i test drive the car was fine.. only hours and days after i have taken delivery the problems appeared one after another .. gutted tho..
will try the WD trick and see if it helps...
But many thanks ..
BTW, there is no engine light on dash, will do a filter change soon but i cannot see that a problem as the rev limiting problem occurs every now and again..
with regards to the car, i paid 2k for a y plate auto HDI that claims to have 60k miles but i have no way to verify it as the mileometer is busted. the price is not bad as everywhere else #(if there is an auto) is selling at 2500.. However, I would rather pay 2500 to get one that is known working..
I looked at the loom of wires to the drivers door and they all seem ok.
I have someone welded the pipe back on now and I slipped him a 20 quid.. but the worse part was i had to get the downpipe off and I had to work on the street which i have not done for AGESSSSSSSS ...
Regards with the trading std.. I will have a word and see where I std.. Unfortunately, the guy is only a trader working from home with no forecourt....and the time i test drive the car was fine.. only hours and days after i have taken delivery the problems appeared one after another .. gutted tho..
will try the WD trick and see if it helps...
But many thanks ..
BTW, there is no engine light on dash, will do a filter change soon but i cannot see that a problem as the rev limiting problem occurs every now and again..
A trader doesn't have to have a forcourt to legally be a trader.
How was the car described, or advertised? How did you come to hear about it, an advert?
You say that at the time you test drove it, alll was fine, but what was the mileometer reading then? Was that OK, and in which case what was the reading? If it was not working then, he was selling the car illegally.
Either way, you have a claim under the supply of goods and services regs.
You can also go back to the previous owner whose name should be on the V5, and ask them what the mileage was when they sold it.
How was the car described, or advertised? How did you come to hear about it, an advert?
You say that at the time you test drove it, alll was fine, but what was the mileometer reading then? Was that OK, and in which case what was the reading? If it was not working then, he was selling the car illegally.
Either way, you have a claim under the supply of goods and services regs.
You can also go back to the previous owner whose name should be on the V5, and ask them what the mileage was when they sold it.
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steelcityuk
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Hi J,
I see you found your way over from Honestjohns website.
Just as a thought, does the engine management light illuminate with the ignition on before you start the car? If not then that explains the fault and no fault light. You really need to have the codes read. If it's not an electrical fault then it could be that there's an obstruction in the induction or exhaust system. A collapsed cat could cause enough of a blockage to cause problems but it's unlikely.
As other posters have said about the central locking it could be a broken wire or a faulty switch that's making the ecu think there's a door open. Have you checked that all locks activate when lock the door, maybe a sticking machanism is to blame.
Have you joined PR NET yet?
Good luck.
Steve.
I see you found your way over from Honestjohns website.
Just as a thought, does the engine management light illuminate with the ignition on before you start the car? If not then that explains the fault and no fault light. You really need to have the codes read. If it's not an electrical fault then it could be that there's an obstruction in the induction or exhaust system. A collapsed cat could cause enough of a blockage to cause problems but it's unlikely.
As other posters have said about the central locking it could be a broken wire or a faulty switch that's making the ecu think there's a door open. Have you checked that all locks activate when lock the door, maybe a sticking machanism is to blame.
Have you joined PR NET yet?
Good luck.
Steve.
not applicable
i have no luck in getting hold of the guy and i have written to him (as advised by consumer direct) but have no reply
so i guess i will have to stick with the car
I have not joined pr net yet steve.
The central locking issue i htink i understand the theroy behind it but its hard to track the problem....
as it unlocks as soon as i lock it
thanks
so i guess i will have to stick with the car
I have not joined pr net yet steve.
The central locking issue i htink i understand the theroy behind it but its hard to track the problem....
as it unlocks as soon as i lock it
thanks