Hi all. I'm about to embark on renewing my cambelt and any info from people that have done this would be appreciated. One thing that is bugging me though is do you really have to take off all the covers to do this because there seems to be no room at all to get to them, surely you can just take off the front ones or am I being thick here??????
Thanks in advance.
Simon.
Xantia Cambelt renewal
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia Cambelt renewal
Saxo 1.5 XD 1998
(previously owned Xantia 1.9 TD sx 1995)
(previously owned Xantia 1.9 TD sx 1995)
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Peter.N.
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The lack of room is what makes a relativly simple job difficult. You first need to put a jack under the engine below the cam belt, with a piece of wood on it so you dont stove the sump in. Then remove the top engine mounting and bracket, you will then find that you can raise or lower the engine to get to the top or bottom as required. You also need to remove the o/s front wheel, you should then be able to see what you are doing, and yes, you do have to take all the covers off.
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RichardW
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Changing the cambelt on a 1.9TD Xantia is a big Citroen joke - especially if it's got A/C....
First you need a substantial 22m socket, long extensions and breaker bar to get the crank pulley bolt out (slacken this with the engine warm, it helps to soften the locktite).
Next you need fingers a foot long with 4 joints in them to get the bolts out of the covers. The one in the middle of the front cover is best tackled from underneath - but note this a nut not a bolt so has to come right off. There is a bolt right down the back of the top cover that you cannot see - and just to make matters more interesting is a different size (11mm)
to all the others (10mm). If the car has the earlier turbo pipe arrangement with the pipe secured to the turbo with a jubilee clip you will need to get it off. Should be possible to do the later engine (with a bolt on turbo pipe) without removing the pipe (which is just as well). Locking the crank shaft is a game too if you've never done it before. I have a long (1m+) 8mm bar, with about 6" bent up at the end at about 20°. I can slide this in behind the starter (between the motor body and solenoid), and it drops right into the timing hole. The extra length allows you to stand by the O/S front wheel to turn the engine over with one hand whilst pushing the rod in with the other.
TBH once you've got the covers off, and the crank timing pin in, the rest is easy! Haynes actually covers it pretty well.
First you need a substantial 22m socket, long extensions and breaker bar to get the crank pulley bolt out (slacken this with the engine warm, it helps to soften the locktite).
Next you need fingers a foot long with 4 joints in them to get the bolts out of the covers. The one in the middle of the front cover is best tackled from underneath - but note this a nut not a bolt so has to come right off. There is a bolt right down the back of the top cover that you cannot see - and just to make matters more interesting is a different size (11mm)
to all the others (10mm). If the car has the earlier turbo pipe arrangement with the pipe secured to the turbo with a jubilee clip you will need to get it off. Should be possible to do the later engine (with a bolt on turbo pipe) without removing the pipe (which is just as well). Locking the crank shaft is a game too if you've never done it before. I have a long (1m+) 8mm bar, with about 6" bent up at the end at about 20°. I can slide this in behind the starter (between the motor body and solenoid), and it drops right into the timing hole. The extra length allows you to stand by the O/S front wheel to turn the engine over with one hand whilst pushing the rod in with the other.TBH once you've got the covers off, and the crank timing pin in, the rest is easy! Haynes actually covers it pretty well.
Richard W
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skysurfer1
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You may find that the lower cover has been "butchered" into several peices so that it can be removed without taking the auxillary belt pulley off. If this has been done it is fairly easy to change the timing belt without taking the pulley off. In my case there was a retaining bolt hole in each peice which was doing a reasonable job of keeping the cover in place.
It can be close to impossible to get the 22mm bolt out of the crankshaft. Having pulled 250+ foot pounds on the bolt and got nowhere, a friend brought around his compressor and air impact wrench. We even tried pulling on a bar and the air wrench at the same time but could not shift it. There are a few threads on here about shifting this bolt, but I couldn't manage it this time.
You may find it's worth taking the turbo outlet pipe off if you're having difficulty getting the top rear cover 11mm bolt out. On my '97 Xantia with XUD engine and intercooler, the pipe comes off easily. Lower the jack a little (under sump with top engine mount off) so you can see down the back of the engine where there is a flange with 2 bolts onto the turbo. With this pipe off the other pipes can be pushed out of the way of the 11mm bolt.
I've spent over 40 mins figuring out what size that bolt was and getting it out with the turbo pipe in place
Alan
It can be close to impossible to get the 22mm bolt out of the crankshaft. Having pulled 250+ foot pounds on the bolt and got nowhere, a friend brought around his compressor and air impact wrench. We even tried pulling on a bar and the air wrench at the same time but could not shift it. There are a few threads on here about shifting this bolt, but I couldn't manage it this time.
You may find it's worth taking the turbo outlet pipe off if you're having difficulty getting the top rear cover 11mm bolt out. On my '97 Xantia with XUD engine and intercooler, the pipe comes off easily. Lower the jack a little (under sump with top engine mount off) so you can see down the back of the engine where there is a flange with 2 bolts onto the turbo. With this pipe off the other pipes can be pushed out of the way of the 11mm bolt.
I've spent over 40 mins figuring out what size that bolt was and getting it out with the turbo pipe in place
Alan
On some versions (like the BX) you don't need to take the crank pulley off - there is a bottom plastic cover over the belt which is held on by 2 small (11 or 12 mm) bolts - and when wriggled out of the way the cambelt can be manoeuvred through the gap without excessive twisting.
The BX has a simple pulley and I'm not sure if you can get the belt past the larget 2 part damper pulley which is probably used on your Xantia - I'll find out when I do our ZX one later in the year!
The BX has a simple pulley and I'm not sure if you can get the belt past the larget 2 part damper pulley which is probably used on your Xantia - I'll find out when I do our ZX one later in the year!
jeremy
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philhoward
I've read that getting the engine hot first helps to "soften" the thread locking compound...skysurfer1 wrote: It can be close to impossible to get the 22mm bolt out of the crankshaft. Having pulled 250+ foot pounds on the bolt and got nowhere, a friend brought around his compressor and air impact wrench. We even tried pulling on a bar and the air wrench at the same time but could not shift it. There are a few threads on here about shifting this bolt, but I couldn't manage it this time.
Never have a problem removing the bolt on the end of the crankshaft.skysurfer1 wrote:You may find that the lower cover has been "butchered" into several peices so that it can be removed without taking the auxillary belt pulley off. If this has been done it is fairly easy to change the timing belt without taking the pulley off. In my case there was a retaining bolt hole in each peice which was doing a reasonable job of keeping the cover in place.
It can be close to impossible to get the 22mm bolt out of the crankshaft. Having pulled 250+ foot pounds on the bolt and got nowhere, a friend brought around his compressor and air impact wrench. We even tried pulling on a bar and the air wrench at the same time but could not shift it. There are a few threads on here about shifting this bolt, but I couldn't manage it this time.
You may find it's worth taking the turbo outlet pipe off if you're having difficulty getting the top rear cover 11mm bolt out. On my '97 Xantia with XUD engine and intercooler, the pipe comes off easily. Lower the jack a little (under sump with top engine mount off) so you can see down the back of the engine where there is a flange with 2 bolts onto the turbo. With this pipe off the other pipes can be pushed out of the way of the 11mm bolt.
I've spent over 40 mins figuring out what size that bolt was and getting it out with the turbo pipe in place
Alan
Disable engine so it can't start, keep all cambelt covers, tensioners etc in place.
Fit a 22 mm 3/4" drive socket to it, an extension bar, then the breaker bar, attach a piece of pipe if necessary to the breaker bar, turn until either the breaker bar or pipe extension (if required) touches the floor and hit the starter.
Betcha it's off within 2 seconds.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!