ZX rear end.

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 15 Oct 2006, 19:01

Having finally got the ZX out of the back of the workshop, fitted a new clutch, rebuilt the front suspension & brakes and welded in two small plates, I am surprised at how pleasant to drive the car is. After a two year lay-up waiting for my time to fix the car, I had forgotten how this basic 1.6 Advantage was such a nice car.
My only niggle is with the rear brakes. They raised comment at the MOT test but still passed, but in our ten years of owning the car, I have always seen the rear brakes as a source of annoyance, especially when the self adjusters de-adjust the brakes and give you more pedal travel than you feel safe with, even though they work fine.
A few years ago, I fitted the factory moded bronze adjusters, but that only marginally resolved the problem.
As we have decided to run the car indefinitely as the family hack, could somebody make comment about the merits of changing the rear end from drums to disc? Is it worth the effort, in terms of braking performance?
Searching the achive proved to be inconclusive.
By the way, this is the [b]saloon[/b] bodied variant, without ABS.

Handyman

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 15 Oct 2006, 22:41

i would stick to drums,the usual problem with the adjusters is the little stainless steal ratchit locking blade,most of the time when i take these drums apart to check brake problems,i find this tinny blade missing,this is what is supposed to notch up and hold the rear brake adjustment,when its not there the adjuster unwinds its self,people take the rear brakes appart and loose this blade as its so small they dont even notice it,or realise its missing,its very common for MOTs purposes to have to manualy adjust these brakes up
regards malcolm

Post by **RichardW** » 16 Oct 2006, 09:00

A ZX with rear discs stops much much better than one with drums - even after I'd replaced the cylinders, shoes, drums and adjusters on our previous drum braked one, the disc braked one we have now is much better(*) - especially after I replaced the pads, and freed it all up!

To change over however, you'd probably need to change the rear subframe, and fit the pressure limiting valves in the brake lines. You may even need to fit a new master cylinder.

Personally I doubt it's worth the aggro - better just to go and buy a TD with discs already!

* Ours has ABS, so I don't know how a non-ABS disc braked model would fare.

8304 · Post by **8304** » 16 Oct 2006, 14:30

do it!

i did.

my zx had drums on the back to start with. I wanted discs and it to also handle better so i ffited a subframe from a local breakers all in all about 3 hours work to remove and replace.

I removed the pressure limiting valves from the car at the breakers. The car stops even better now and i dont need to adjust the drums to get rid of the pesky pedal travel!!!

the peadal doesnt move as far and the brakes are more powerfull. it was a great improvement.

If you get a subframe off a volcane the suspension is lower and stiffer too which also was a huge improvement.

for an hour or so ripping one out of a car at the breakers and then 3 hours carefully swaping them the next weekend it was well worth it! only cost 40 quid from breakers with volcane alloys still attached as i didnt have the locking whell nut tool at the time! bargain!

do it but be sure not buy a subframe with wheels that look like this: / \
and drill and grease the trailing arm bearings to make them last longer. It will also be worth changing the front subframe mounts aswell as these are usually nackered!

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 16 Oct 2006, 15:23

Hi 8304, is it really that easy? What about the handbrake cables? Are there variations between the 5 door & 3 door saloons? What about using one of the Peugeot subframes?
I am not too bothered about changing the ride height as the car's handling is perfectly acceptable. If I want to go round corners fast I get out one of the Activas.
I'm off to my local scrapyard tomorrow to get bits for the Xant estate so I'll have a look at the ZXs there.

Will keep you informed, if I go ahead with it. I may need advice, although it sounds fairly straight forward.

Handyman

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 16 Oct 2006, 19:20

the cables are diferant from drum to disc,and GSF say between ABS and non ABS,although i fitted standerd cables to a car with drums and ABS
regards malcolm

8304 · Post by **8304** » 17 Oct 2006, 11:29

yes the cables are different if you swap from drums to discs. - remove them with the subframe by disconnecting them from the back of the hand brake lever inside the car. You also have to take a heat shield panel off underneathbut its literally only a couple of 10mm nuts and about ten mins.

The back box of the exhuast will need to be removed but thats just one clamp and the rubber mounts slide off.

Im not exagerating its one of those jobs that look like it will take a long time but doesnt.

pug 306 subframes are the same as zx ones so if you find a decent one in a peugeot 306 you can use that.

If you take the one out at the breakers you can rip it out without worrying too much and learn how it works then putting it into your car is easier cos you know what the crack is - nut sizes etc.

so activas handle well then by the sounds of it. Would be interseting to see which corners best. I suspect the zx has more "chuckability" but then with the active it will still be smooth whereas you feel the bumps with the zx...

Be sure to also get the pressure reducers which you will see in the brake pipe lines just in fron of the subframe, also, expect the brake pipe threaded fittings to be corroded - might be worth getting under there a couple of days before with some wd40!!!!!!

any way keep us posted!!

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 17 Oct 2006, 22:41

8304, you obviously have not been in an Activa. There is no comparison between the ride in a ZX, no matter how well it may have been set up, to cornering in an Activa. Even a Xantia does not come close in sport mode.
Imagine driving down country lanes and having to brake and accelerate in small twisty sections, you do not need to do that in an Activa. Imagine driving fast on a wet fast curved road, then start to accelerate hard without the car reaching the edge of its performance but staying on line. Totally predictable and confidence inspiring. Even lifting off or changing gear in bends does not make the car go out of shape.
Why Citroen never sold the Activa in the UK with a better engine I will never know.
I also own a Marlin kit car fitted with a 2.5 litre engine and this does not even get anywhere near the Activa's handling capabilities.
The original press blurb when the car was first released stated that the Activa would out perform even a Ferrari. Having driven both I can endorse that statement.

Handyman

PS, I'll keep you up to speed on the ZX back end.