bottom engine mount

deian · Post by **deian** » 02 Jul 2006, 20:04

they are a particular shape aren't they, so i wouldn't be too surprised if that theory is correct, i will bare that in mind when replacing it... or at least try to, thanks alan.s

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 02 Jul 2006, 20:08

The spokes are strange aslooking at the bush you would say that they should be set front to back - ie horizontal but all my cars had vertical ones when the arrived and I recall the pictures in Haynes show them bertical as wll.

Has anyone set it front - to back and if so is there any difference.

Incidentally I have done a BX one in situ - new one went in quite easily when deep frozen over night. A job that should be easier to do in hot weather as the alloy mount will expand more than the steel ring.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 02 Jul 2006, 20:31

jeremy wrote: A job that should be easier to do in hot weather as the alloy mount will expand more than the steel ring.

Why not let some fuel do it for you - idling the engine for half an hour

The last one I did was put in with the spokes at 45deg angle - a compromise 8)
(My TuRD turbo - engine is knocking against the left when doing animated right turns

)

G4EIY · Post by **G4EIY** » 02 Jul 2006, 22:46

Hi Folks,

I think I have one to do, but need to check first...

Well, using the old boot technique would seen to provide the best solution, as it provides support / resistance the full 360 deg !!!...

Food for thought..

Cheers
Brian

Post by **Peter.N.** » 02 Jul 2006, 23:24

It does look as though it is designed to be stiffer in one direction but the whole thing looks fairly soft so as not to transmit to much vibration to the body.

You can use a large socket to press it in if you have a 3/4" drive set, but you will need a longer bolt.

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 02 Jul 2006, 23:34

Treat it like a wheel bearing.

When I did mine I cut the remains of the rubber out and ran a few strings of mig weld round the inside of the shell, and it then just pushed out quite easily-the weld also gives you something to hammer against.

The expansion from the welding heat also allowed the new one to push in easily straight from the freezer.

vanny · Post by **vanny** » 03 Jul 2006, 00:14

from what i've been told by the Pug racer types, the solid 'bar' of the bush should be in vertically, if its in horizontally then the engine is held much stiffer but does cause them to fail quicker. In the 205 circuits there is a tendancy to either fit polybush ones that are a single piece with the hole in the middle, or (a growing trend) to replace the bush with a machined piece of billet steel!

I personally have stuck to the original as i can't see much benefit from trying to stiffen up the daily ride when it takes sufficient abuse to warrant some flexibility?

As an aside, i found (before i messed up) that if your doing it on the bench then the rubber goes in at about 45degrees to the flat face of the mount, the engine is layed back and when you put the bush in it will sit straight!

deian · Post by **deian** » 03 Jul 2006, 16:55

BAD NEWS: I emailed GSF asking if it's part number N10126 is what I need (after seeing it in the downloadable pdf gsf catalogue) for my bush, 'Sergio' emailed me back saying no it's not that, and they don't stock what I need. Do I doubt Sergio and order it anyway? Or shall I pop to Citroen for it? It's not that expensive from Citroen is it?

Thanks guys!

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 03 Jul 2006, 17:02

I see your car is a 2.1 TD. There is a discussion on this point somewhere on this board. If I recall correctly Citroen consider this to be integral with its housing which naturally makes the price huge.

The question really is what is the difference.

deian · Post by **deian** » 03 Jul 2006, 17:07

yes it is a 2.1, please don't say i gotta buy the whole thing, there are pics on the first post of this thread. the whole housing is a big job that involves driveshafts, can someone make me happy by telling me jeremy and sergio is wrong? please

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 03 Jul 2006, 17:32

For the record the whole casting assembly (with the bush) which takes the driveshaft intermediate bearing was £150 inc VAT as I've been there and paid that

- although that's on an XM XU 2.0i engine...

Andrew

ps - just checked receipt - £150 all in!!

davetd · Post by **davetd** » 03 Jul 2006, 21:14

I changed mine at Christmas when I got my 1st Citroen (description below). The bush is available seperately and the receipt says it's the same one for BX, C15D, Synergie, Xantia and ZX. It's known as eng mount lo disc part number N10126 OE ref 180916.

Getting the old one out is harder than fitting the new. I stuck a 3/4" drill bit into it at high speed (tore it out in seconds, don't bother with a hacksaw blade your fingers will come off before the mount). I only used the hacksaw blade for the metal band and then as Anders and Jeremy say freeze the new one (I also used some plumbers pipe freezer at the last minute for extra help)

Good luck

davetd

deian · Post by **deian** » 03 Jul 2006, 21:19

i'll go to citroen tomorrow and demand THAT part only, they might try to sell me the whole thing, if they do i will walk away and leave it, and search on eurocarparts, gsf haven't been to helpful.

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 03 Jul 2006, 22:02

deian wrote:i'll go to citroen tomorrow and demand THAT part only, they might try to sell me the whole thing, if they do i will walk away and leave it, and search on eurocarparts, gsf haven't been to helpful.

Don't waste your time going to Citroen - this is a small part of a whole, and Citroen's attitude is sell the whole, there's more profit in it...

There's been GSF Nwhatsit part numbers mentioned so go there!!

Andrew

Post by **Peter.N.** » 03 Jul 2006, 22:38

What a roller coaster of emmotions! Difficult, easy, expensive, cheap, difficult again and now hopefully cheap and easy

. Its described in the GSF on line cat as a 'disc' what else can it be if its not the bush?.... here's hoping

.