Hi Ross,
Looks like the "best advice" wasn't so good....

rarely are the ABS ECU's faulty, its usually a sensor/wire fault.
My suggestion if you have an always on light would be to unplug the big plug from the ECU and use a digital ohm meter to measure each sensor AT the ECU plug. (There could be a fault in the wiring loom between the big ECU plug and the individual plugs to the sensors)
If you search hard enough on the forum you'll find the pinouts for the plug. (I know they're here somewhere - as I used them to diagnose mine, although I can't find it with a quick search..)
They should be around 1000 ohms, and all within about 100 ohms of each other. If the ABS light comes on and stays on as soon as you start the car before you even drive off, its a simple continuity fault. (open, shorted, or too far away from 1000 ohms)
If it comes on after you're moving its either a problem with the sensor not picking up adequate signal from the teeth on the hub (alignment, sensor, dirt in the teeth etc) or an intermitant wire flexing with suspension travel or vibration.
And no, I don't know of any "resetting" required for an ABS ECU - you can reset the fault counters with the diagnostic computer, but they don't have any bearing on whether the ABS light comes on as far as I know.
When the fault goes away the light should be out the next time the ignition is turned on, so a solid light indicates the fault still exists...
Regards,
Simon