Suspension fault

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mezuk04
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Post by mezuk04 »

Whoopsie daisy.

Well if its one thing I know, its my computer technical talk :oops:

One Question: The information I supplied, was it indeed correct? :P
Volkswagen Golf 59' 1.6TD S :(
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

Mez - yes ;)


Re, height corrector, Simon I fully repsect your knowledge on these cars, but can anyone else confirm the spring location? I feel more inclined now to fit them as Simon says, just need one more vote...

anyone...

:)
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

on second thoughts ...

I am going to rebuild as you say Simon, just re-read your post.. all makes much more sense now..

sorry for doubting 8)

will buy you a beer if i make it over there later this year :D
mezuk04
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Post by mezuk04 »

My comical posts deserve a pint I do believe 8)
Volkswagen Golf 59' 1.6TD S :(
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

oh ok :D
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Post by Mandrake »

jgra1 wrote:on second thoughts ...

I am going to rebuild as you say Simon, just re-read your post.. all makes much more sense now..

sorry for doubting 8)

will buy you a beer if i make it over there later this year :D
You've got me wondering now..... :?

I wish I'd taken pictures when I stripped mine apart a few months ago :roll: I will when I do the other one...

I've never found a diagram for a Xantia height corrector yet, but the following diagram is from a CX manual:

Image
So it looks like I remember wrong, sorry about that :(

On the other hand I'm sure I remember the two springs were spiral wound (different diameter at each end) so that they could compress to the thickness of a single spiral, but that diagram shows a normal single diameter spring with adjacent coils..... maybe I'm just going crazy.... :roll:

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

Hi Simon,

hmmm a few things...,

I would be a little suprised if i had built it wrong, i was careful to keep everything in order..

Yes the spring has different diameters for each end.. but the larger diameter is a pefect fit for the convex shape of the brass coloured Diapragm plate.. (if you know what i mean)

I guess having the springs on the outside would still encourage centering..

yes they're shape does allow for fairly complete collapse, not a perfect one tho.. as you say down to a spring width, what effect will this have on metal disc sealing...? (if the springs inside the metal discs)

where is Anders gone, he must know this..

:twisted:
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Post by dirk diggler »

Hi there,i hope this helps,.Rear height corrector problems are caused by one of two things or sometimes both.The cradel it lives in, siezes up due to rust build up, or the spool valve in the height corrector itself gets stuck due to gunge or being bent when forced to move.The units themselves are not greased or lubricated when first fitted to the car so all of them go wrong in the end.The best way to sort the job out is to spend about £60.00 at pleiades and just bolt the complete unit (fully lubricated already) to the vehicle and its job done.
If you are still dead set on re-building the unit itself the order is-

Looking at the height corrector with the return pipe and two 3.5 holes facing you.

Left side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, 8MM NUT, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS),SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM) , CIRCLIP, SHIM.

Right side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, THIN 8MM NUT, FORK END, WASHER, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS), SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM), CIRCLIP, SHIM.

After you have re-assembled check the left to right movement of the spool valve if this is tight ,fix it with a new one.

These units are very hard to free up long term good luck anyway!
dirk diggler
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Post by dirk diggler »

Hi there,i hope this helps,.Rear height corrector problems are caused by one of two things or sometimes both.The cradel it lives in, siezes up due to rust build up, or the spool valve in the height corrector itself gets stuck due to gunge or being bent when forced to move.The units themselves are not greased or lubricated when first fitted to the car so all of them go wrong in the end.The best way to sort the job out is to spend about £60.00 at pleiades and just bolt the complete unit (fully lubricated already) to the vehicle and its job done.
If you are still dead set on re-building the unit itself the order is-

Looking at the height corrector with the return pipe and two 3.5 holes facing you.

Left side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, 8MM NUT, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS),SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM) , CIRCLIP, SHIM.

Right side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, THIN 8MM NUT, FORK END, WASHER, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS), SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM), CIRCLIP, SHIM.

After you have re-assembled check the left to right movement of the spool valve if this is tight ,fix it with a new one.

These units are very hard to free up long term good luck anyway!
dirk diggler
Posts: 7
Joined: 08 Jun 2006, 23:47
Location:
My Cars:

Suspension problems

Post by dirk diggler »

Hi there,i hope this helps,.Rear height corrector problems are caused by one of two things or sometimes both.The cradel it lives in, siezes up due to rust build up, or the spool valve in the height corrector itself gets stuck due to gunge or being bent when forced to move.The units themselves are not greased or lubricated when first fitted to the car so all of them go wrong in the end.The best way to sort the job out is to spend about £60.00 at pleiades and just bolt the complete unit (fully lubricated already) to the vehicle and its job done.
If you are still dead set on re-building the unit itself the order is-

Looking at the height corrector with the return pipe and two 3.5 holes facing you.

Left side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, 8MM NUT, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS),SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM) , CIRCLIP, SHIM.

Right side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, THIN 8MM NUT, FORK END, WASHER, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS), SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM), CIRCLIP, SHIM.

After you have re-assembled check the left to right movement of the spool valve if this is tight ,fix it with a new one.

These units are very hard to free up long term good luck anyway!
dirk diggler
Posts: 7
Joined: 08 Jun 2006, 23:47
Location:
My Cars:

Suspension problems

Post by dirk diggler »

Hi there,i hope this helps,.Rear height corrector problems are caused by one of two things or sometimes both.The cradel it lives in, siezes up due to rust build up, or the spool valve in the height corrector itself gets stuck due to gunge or being bent when forced to move.The units themselves are not greased or lubricated when first fitted to the car so all of them go wrong in the end.The best way to sort the job out is to spend about £60.00 at pleiades and just bolt the complete unit (fully lubricated already) to the vehicle and its job done.
If you are still dead set on re-building the unit itself the order is-

Looking at the height corrector with the return pipe and two 3.5 holes facing you.

Left side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, 8MM NUT, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS),SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM) , CIRCLIP, SHIM.

Right side (starting from outside)-DUST COVER, THIN 8MM NUT, FORK END, WASHER, BRASS COLOUR PLATE, DIAPHRAM, METAL PLATE (DOMED SIDE POINTING INWARDS), SPRING (LARGE END TO DOMED METAL PLATE SMALL END TO INNER SHIM), CIRCLIP, SHIM.

After you have re-assembled check the left to right movement of the spool valve if this is tight ,fix it with a new one.

These units are very hard to free up long term good luck anyway!
jgra1
(Donor 2021)
Posts: 4625
Joined: 27 Nov 2005, 19:07
Location: Kent / Susssex
My Cars: 2010 C5 X7 2.0 hdi 160 exc auto
MG TF 135
Boxer II 2.2 camper conversion
BMW R1200RT
BMW K1300 R
Honda V F R 800 5thG / MT500 Armstrong
x 39

Post by jgra1 »

Dirk ! many thanks
!!

i got the message after the first post but thanks for the rest anyway :lol:

It seems mine has gone back together ok. To be honest, selling a 6 year old car for £700 has left me gutted really :( so the new owner can.. er.. you know ... ;)

it all worked well last weekend :)

John
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Post by Mandrake »

dirk diggler wrote:The units themselves are not greased or lubricated when first fitted to the car so all of them go wrong in the end.
I have to take issue with this comment - height correctors don't need special greasing or lubricating because they are fully self-lubricating, and are designed that way on purpose.

Even if you fit one completely dry (after stripping and cleaning for example) the bellows at each end are completely full of oil due to natural leakage within less than a day of operation.

The entire insides including all sliding surfaces are submerged in oil at all times.

Also I don't agree that "all of them go wrong in the end" - if you don't keep the LHM clean they certainly can get gunged up and eventually start to "seize up" but in reality all that has happened is the micro holes in the dashpot damper chambers (which are about the size of a human hair) are clogged with gunge blocking the oil flow through the dampers.

Give it a good clean out and its as good as new. As long as the LHM is changed on a regular schedule to keep the oil clean there is no inevitability to this problem occuring...

Regards,
Simon
Simon

1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White

2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
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Post by dnsey »

Whenever I've rebuilt them, I've done so under paraffin.
Main reason is to make quite sure that no odd bits of dirt find their way inside, but it also provides a bit of initial lubrication (shake out the surplus before fitting).
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height corrector

Post by dirk diggler »

Sorry, i was talking about the cradel not being lubricated!
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