hi all
have an m reg with gen 32k on clock and a month ago had all 6 spheres changed by my local garage ( he's being doing my cars for yrs) as the rear was getting a bit hard and not much of the bounce on the rear.
Also, when you went over a manhole sunk a bit more than the council would like, you would get a noticable "thump" on the rear end. The same thump was there if there was a small pothole or inward ridge (no more than 1/2" as i've measured one in my road.. sad eyh .. in the roadsurface.. hope you all know the things i mean.
since the spheres have been replaced the the correct bounce and suspension criteria is as it should be and when driving on nice smooth road surfaces its like being on a hovercaft. smooth and enjoyable... only problem is ..... the thump is still there on the potholes or dips in the road. it only seems to be the pits not the sudden raised surfaces we get confronted with in the road at the last minute. It just doesnt feel quite right.
Please can anyone advise
many thanks in advance
andy
xantia suspension
Moderator: RichardW
When did you last fit tyres to the car? I recently fitted a set to the front of a BX Estate and notice a distinct thump now. However, if this thump sounds more mechanical, check the drop links on the suspension.
Yesterday I bled the air out of my 94 VSX and that has made a huge difference to both ride and handling as well as noise from a dull thudding I was getting. If your old spheres were totally blown, the nitrogen may have got trapped in the suspension as mine had and needs the suspension under a bit of load whilst you bleed the air via the brake bleeders.
Alan S
Yesterday I bled the air out of my 94 VSX and that has made a huge difference to both ride and handling as well as noise from a dull thudding I was getting. If your old spheres were totally blown, the nitrogen may have got trapped in the suspension as mine had and needs the suspension under a bit of load whilst you bleed the air via the brake bleeders.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
suspension
Hi Both
Thanks for the fast response. The tyres are near perfect, none have been changed and have loads of tread. Is there anything I can check or blead myself and where would I find the said. Also, if I provide the chassi no.. etc could you tell me where I can obtian a service manual, Haynes or the like. There's no problem with taking it back to my mechanic but I do like to know how and why things work and if it's a simple thing then all the better.
Once again I do greatly appreciate all your help and advise and hope its ok to pop the odd question in from time to time?
Best wishes
Andy
Thanks for the fast response. The tyres are near perfect, none have been changed and have loads of tread. Is there anything I can check or blead myself and where would I find the said. Also, if I provide the chassi no.. etc could you tell me where I can obtian a service manual, Haynes or the like. There's no problem with taking it back to my mechanic but I do like to know how and why things work and if it's a simple thing then all the better.
Once again I do greatly appreciate all your help and advise and hope its ok to pop the odd question in from time to time?
Best wishes
Andy
Andy,
Ask what you like when you like; that's what the forums are here for.
As regards bleeding; I did a thorough bleeding via all 4 brake bleeders. (The front ones are a bit awkward to get to being in a bit of a silly position.)
If your mechanic isn't aware (some aren't) you need to have load on the rear end to be able to bleed the rears properly. I usually get the car up on a jack and then apply pressure by using a jack either under the rear arm of the one being bled or I have a special jack I fit under the rotor and raise it until the jack holding the car feels a bit loose so I know I have both the weight on that side as well as the security of the jack under in case it slips.
With engine running, I then get someone to hit the pedal while I bleed. I start at the wheel furtherest away from the LHM tank and work back to the front wheel the closest.
In my case I was catching the LHM in coffee bottle and filled a 150 gram bottle with "green fizzy" just out of one of the rears which was the main offender.
It's also a good idea to get the bleeding done every year or so as brakes are dead ends and this also gets the old stale (usually brown) LHM out of those lines.
Alan S
Ask what you like when you like; that's what the forums are here for.
As regards bleeding; I did a thorough bleeding via all 4 brake bleeders. (The front ones are a bit awkward to get to being in a bit of a silly position.)
If your mechanic isn't aware (some aren't) you need to have load on the rear end to be able to bleed the rears properly. I usually get the car up on a jack and then apply pressure by using a jack either under the rear arm of the one being bled or I have a special jack I fit under the rotor and raise it until the jack holding the car feels a bit loose so I know I have both the weight on that side as well as the security of the jack under in case it slips.
With engine running, I then get someone to hit the pedal while I bleed. I start at the wheel furtherest away from the LHM tank and work back to the front wheel the closest.
In my case I was catching the LHM in coffee bottle and filled a 150 gram bottle with "green fizzy" just out of one of the rears which was the main offender.
It's also a good idea to get the bleeding done every year or so as brakes are dead ends and this also gets the old stale (usually brown) LHM out of those lines.
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
Is the car actually riding at the correct height? If my BX front doesn't rise properly the ride is rather harsh. The reason may be something really simple like the height control mechanism is stiff and needs greasing/oiling.
Be careful and support the car properly before getting underneath. These cars can KILL.
The linkage goes from the anti-roll bar to the height corrector and the bits that matter are at the height corrector end. You may find a brush handy for getting oil and grease into the tight places.
Simple test is to raise the car fully (stationary) and then put it back to normal height and see if its any better (may be temporarily only!)
Be careful and support the car properly before getting underneath. These cars can KILL.
The linkage goes from the anti-roll bar to the height corrector and the bits that matter are at the height corrector end. You may find a brush handy for getting oil and grease into the tight places.
Simple test is to raise the car fully (stationary) and then put it back to normal height and see if its any better (may be temporarily only!)
jeremy