Xantia 1.9 TD 1994 hard front suspension
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Xantia 1.9 TD 1994 hard front suspension
Hi all. i know this has been talked about for ever.. i have read pages of postings and found some useful things...
I just want to check, that A) my 94 Xantia only has four spheres, one on each corner, and an Accumulator Sphere? On/Near PR...
and B)
If the front end is very firm, both sides, It raelly is very lkely to be front spheres, so, the cheapest option must be GSF (they have a free post incentive running right now)
and too buy 2 new spheres?
many thanks, John ps i may have more questions to follow, that relate to either this or my other 1999 1800 Xantia
Uk, Sussex
I just want to check, that A) my 94 Xantia only has four spheres, one on each corner, and an Accumulator Sphere? On/Near PR...
and B)
If the front end is very firm, both sides, It raelly is very lkely to be front spheres, so, the cheapest option must be GSF (they have a free post incentive running right now)
and too buy 2 new spheres?
many thanks, John ps i may have more questions to follow, that relate to either this or my other 1999 1800 Xantia
Uk, Sussex
Yes, you only ha 4 spheres and 1 Accumulator sphere.
I would recomend that you change both front spheres and the Accumulator sphere too.
The Accumulator sphere acts as a shock absorber for the hydraulic system. You may be as well checkeing the wishbone bushes too as they wear if the spheres have de-gassed.
Paul
PS Spheres are an easy job to do and GSF are as good a place as any to buy them from.
I would recomend that you change both front spheres and the Accumulator sphere too.
The Accumulator sphere acts as a shock absorber for the hydraulic system. You may be as well checkeing the wishbone bushes too as they wear if the spheres have de-gassed.
Paul
PS Spheres are an easy job to do and GSF are as good a place as any to buy them from.
1xAmi,3xGS,2xBx,2xAX,2xSaxo,1xXantia mk I,2xXantia MkII,1xC1,2xC2,
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front sphere change
hi all, I now have two new front spheres from GSF..
I will fit tonight.
What is the best way to minimise fluid loss? with manual control set on low, do i need the struts fully extended (axle stands) or fully compressed?
I will depressure the system after the car has lowered, with the engine running
thanks
John
I will fit tonight.
What is the best way to minimise fluid loss? with manual control set on low, do i need the struts fully extended (axle stands) or fully compressed?
I will depressure the system after the car has lowered, with the engine running
thanks
John
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Car down on low setting, release system pressure. All the usual warnings about only ½ a turn or so so you don’t loose the ball. As you don’t have anti-sink on your car system will depressurise with the engine off.
Unscrew the spheres and have a rag handy to soak up the fluid that is lost.
If the sphere has ruptured you will have a lot more fluid washing around than if it hasn’t. It is not uncommon for fluid to spurt 10 – 15 ft out of the sphere as it is removed. ¼ to ½ a litre of LHM always seems such an awful lot when you are trying to mop it up and stop it going everywhere.
Best of luck, at least the 2 front ones are the easiest to do.
Unscrew the spheres and have a rag handy to soak up the fluid that is lost.
If the sphere has ruptured you will have a lot more fluid washing around than if it hasn’t. It is not uncommon for fluid to spurt 10 – 15 ft out of the sphere as it is removed. ¼ to ½ a litre of LHM always seems such an awful lot when you are trying to mop it up and stop it going everywhere.
Best of luck, at least the 2 front ones are the easiest to do.
The pressure relief valve is a simple ball bearing held on to its seat by the screw. main thing is never to remove the screw as the ball bearing falls out - so if its been undone a bit further but not removed - no problems.
Actually there is no need to depressurise to change front spheres - just drop the car right down and the height corrector will shut off the supply to the front suspension and allow all pressure to leak back to the reservoir! No harm done by depressurising and its actually safer.
When you undo the spheres you may have a feeble spray of LHM. When the sphere deteriorates it may not have enough presure to forse LHM back to the reservoir but enough to spray out when you loosen the sphere. If the sphere is full of LHM (loads - about 1/2 litre or so) its a sure sign its flat.
Refit spheres (washers in car mount not round sphere neck before fitting) and hand tighten only, start engine, let idle for a couple of minutes, tighten pressure relief screw, and raise and lower car fully a few times to expell gas - job done.
I can see no reason to change accumulator at the same time. A good accumulator is essential - but when they fail the regulator ticks frequently. With a good accumulator you should be able to turn off the engine with the car at normal height then sit in the boot. Car should sink a long way (6inches or so) then after about 30 seconds rise again to its original height.
Actually there is no need to depressurise to change front spheres - just drop the car right down and the height corrector will shut off the supply to the front suspension and allow all pressure to leak back to the reservoir! No harm done by depressurising and its actually safer.
When you undo the spheres you may have a feeble spray of LHM. When the sphere deteriorates it may not have enough presure to forse LHM back to the reservoir but enough to spray out when you loosen the sphere. If the sphere is full of LHM (loads - about 1/2 litre or so) its a sure sign its flat.
Refit spheres (washers in car mount not round sphere neck before fitting) and hand tighten only, start engine, let idle for a couple of minutes, tighten pressure relief screw, and raise and lower car fully a few times to expell gas - job done.
I can see no reason to change accumulator at the same time. A good accumulator is essential - but when they fail the regulator ticks frequently. With a good accumulator you should be able to turn off the engine with the car at normal height then sit in the boot. Car should sink a long way (6inches or so) then after about 30 seconds rise again to its original height.
jeremy
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thanks Jeremy,
Ahh.,. this brings me onto my next question.. my other Xantia, 18i 1999, ticks every 2 to 3 seconds. The suspension otherwise is pretty good.
But,.. the brakes are dangerous!..
they have pressure in the first instance, then it drops, you press harder, it comes back stronger then you expect.. and so on.. car is non ABS..
means it is very hard to stop smoothly, but in the worst case, very very easy to lock front wheels as I cannot guage how hard to brake!
A friend thought the pump, but, the accumulator has a lot to do with front brakes?
May be both need changing...
Ahh.,. this brings me onto my next question.. my other Xantia, 18i 1999, ticks every 2 to 3 seconds. The suspension otherwise is pretty good.
But,.. the brakes are dangerous!..
they have pressure in the first instance, then it drops, you press harder, it comes back stronger then you expect.. and so on.. car is non ABS..
means it is very hard to stop smoothly, but in the worst case, very very easy to lock front wheels as I cannot guage how hard to brake!
A friend thought the pump, but, the accumulator has a lot to do with front brakes?
May be both need changing...
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See story here:jgra1 wrote:tell me more about this mod?
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20151
2002 C5 2.0i AL4 230,000 km 76372389
If the accumulator sphere is flat, which it sounds like it is, it will cause the brake pressure to vary wildly as you use the brakes.jgra1 wrote:thanks Clogzz
Will do that right away!
I still think my problem is huge loss of pressure, and then regaining it again... ?..
will let you all know..
This is because the accumulator sphere smooths the cycling of the regulator and the pulses from the pump. Without it, even a small use of oil such as pressing the brakes causes a large pressure drop which triggers the regulator to cut in which causes a sudden large pressure increase and so on. With a good accumulator the pressure variations are very small. (Also the accumulator can provide up to 20 brake operations after a pump failure such as a snapped aux belt)
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive