Xantia Coolant change

[mcgregor]

Hi
This may be a pretty stupid question but can anyone tell me in dummy terms how to change the coolant/antifreesze in my 2001 Xantia Hdi 110 please. I have had a quick look and just cannot see any drains or bleed points at all. I know they have to be there and the job just has to be really easy but I’m blowed if I can see how. Is this a job for a pit perhaps?
Dave

[paulbx]

Some rads differ but -

Open heater to full Hot

should be bleed tap at rear lower part of rad. If not remove lower hose.

Remove filler cap to equalise pressure

Close drain plug / lower hose

Top up

Alow gurgles and bubbles to settle / top up again

Strt engine

open bleed screw on thermostat housing

There maybe a bleed point on top of rad too

Level shoudl begin to plunge

keep topping up - some people use a wedged in airtight drinks bottle in expnasion tank to ensure water evel is above highest level of engine.

Close bleed points

go for a drive

allow to cool somehwat

check levels - try thermostat bleed piint again

Done!

[mcgregor]

Thanks Paul but the problem is I cannot see any drain or bleed points at all. They're certainly not obvious to me.

[Clogzz]

This may be a pretty stupid question

That's not a stupid question, nobody is born a coolant changer.

Not sure about the diesels, but there should be a coolant drain at the bottom of the radiator, on the right side as you look down under the bonnet from the front of the car.
Open the tap and remove the header tank cap to let the air in.
Open the bleed valves you can find, the most important one being on the top heater hose.
This recent thread gives some idea as to where to look for them:

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 89e05bcd4b

Normally you should look for a drain plug at the bottom of the engine block too, but that's a contortionist's job, and there's not much water left in the block.
You can make up for this by changing the fluid every year instead of every two years.

If the coolant looks dirty, you normally also should flush the system, but on such a recent car, it’s probably not needed.

When empty, close the tap and refill the header tank.
Close the bleed valves as fluid comes out of them.
When the tank is full, start the engine.
Open the top valve until fluid comes out, and then close it.
After the next drive, when cold, say next day, check the level in the header tank, and top up as required.
That's how I've done it for 35 years, and it's always been good.

Don't ever use downmarket coolants.
Citroën's own coolant has 50% glycol and won't cost more than equivalent qualities.

[mcgregor]

Thanks for the replies I shall have another look/go when I get the chance. One more wee question though the coolant in the car is a pale yellow colour which I believe is the new type antifreeze. How often does this stuff need changed?

[mezuk04]

There is a chance that the radiator wont have one as we found out on my Brother in laws newly acquired ZX, so the bottom hose had to come off in order to bleed the system and change the coolant, sadly it was a bodged job before we got there and the hose was held on with lots of sealant and the clip bust (See the thread about it), so maybe it doesnt have one at all

[Clogzz]

the coolant in the car is a pale yellow colour which I believe is the new type antifreeze.

Don't know about the new coolant, but if it wasn't used when the car was manufactured, I wouldn't use it until I got the endorsement of an expert.
Citroën's original glycol coolant is also a clear yellow colour, and they void warranties for cooling faults if their own yellow coolant isn't used.

[mcgregor]

Cheers, That would indeed explain why I can't find one! Perhaps I don't need to worry now either as someone here reckons that the new type (OAT or HOAT) antifreeze only needs changed every seven years or so. That also would possibly explain why Citroen perhaps never fitted a drain to the radiator. Or am I being cynical?

[Clogzz]

Or am I being cynical?

Yes, and probably rightly so.

[mcgregor]

I did a big investigation of this last night and indeed I eventually found a drain cock on the n/s bottom of the radiator. Not very easy to see or get at but just about possible to open I think. Bleeds however are a different matter. I followed every water hose and not one has a bleed on it. The only thing I can see is a small brass cap headed screw on the thermostat housing. Can anyone tell me if this is the only (or even if it is one) bleed screw on the HDi 110 engine. Thanks for your help lads.

[Clogzz]

If it looks like a tyre valve cap, like inside the yellow square in the photo, then yes, it is one.

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... ht=#104337

[mcgregor]

Cheers. No its not like that at all its on the aluminium thermostat cover and is a brass deal. Looks like a brass cap headed bolt.

[Clogzz]

Top photo, just under where it says 'quality' on the lowest plug lead, is a hexagonal slot cap for allen key.
That must be the one, even though it's a different engine.

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... ht=#104337

[mcgregor]

A bit different to that actually as its in the side of the housing nearest to the turbo hose but hopefully it will suffice. This really is an oddball

[mcgregor]

After much thought and deliberation I fijnally decided to change out the anti freeze completely as its been in the car for nearly five years and although it probably still wont freeze I doubt the corrosion inhibitor is still active.
Anyway I managed to do the job at home last night following your advice and it was easier than I thought once I found the radiator drain cock and the heater matrix bleed point which on the HDi is completely hidden under the front bulkhead and can only be found by touch. Touch wood its perfect on the drive in to work today. Thanks for your help and advice.