Rear Disc require change

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » 10 Nov 2005, 22:26

Xantia 1.9 TD Tempt 2 registered 01 1998.
Depressurising to change rear discs. The Haynes manual 93 to 98 (K to S reg) talks of early and late models, without and with "Hydractive", suspension circuit isolator valve. I believe mine is the 'later' model. Could someone please confirm this or otherwise. Thanks.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 10 Nov 2005, 22:52

Unless you are applying the brakes, there shouldn't be any pressure otherwise the brakes would be permanently on, just undo the bolts and take the calipers off.

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » 10 Nov 2005, 23:01

Thanks for that Peter. I was of that opinion. There shouldn't be a problem pushing the pistons back in then?

Post by **Peter.N.** » 10 Nov 2005, 23:16

Not unless they are stuck, do try to push them back squarely, if they go in at an angle they will jam, a tyre lever will usually do the job.

Peter.

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » 10 Nov 2005, 23:22

Thanks Peter. I was just concerned that there would possibly be resistance against fluid pressure with Haynes having suggested depressurising.

NiSk · Post by **NiSk** » 11 Nov 2005, 07:21

Sounds like another one of Haynes idiot explanations - now you know why it's called the book of lies (BOL)! There is absolutely no need to depressurised the hydraulic system to do your brake work - in fact it might even make it more difficult. Just make sure you support the car properly and don't crawl about under it!

//NiSk

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 11 Nov 2005, 09:17

hayneass (bol)is just abut good enough to look at pics if you have some idea what your about,but never trust all of the txt
regards malcolm

davek-uk · Post by **davek-uk** » 11 Nov 2005, 09:37

You should have no problems. Mine is a Temp2, albeit a year earlier. Remove the pads and then reinsert the bolt holding the caliper sides together. The caliper can then be unbolted and swung aside. I had to belt the living daylights out of my disks to free them. Take care to clean up the caliper mating face and consider putting something between the caliper and arm to stop the corrosion that occurs there. Initially I put a layer of Hermitite when I had leaning caliper syndrome; but later, when I had to replace the disks, I used a piece of thickish plastic sheet. The Hermitite was still there but I didn't think it was enough of a barrier.

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » 11 Nov 2005, 22:49

Thanks for the replys guys. Really appreciated. Haven't been on for a while cos I lost the site with the new URL. Feel a lot better about the job now. Great to have the support, thanks.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 11 Nov 2005, 23:12

you should not put anything between arm and calliper,apart from maybe some grease or copper slip,as the line of the calliper is important
regards malcolm

Malcolm · Post by **Malcolm** » 12 Nov 2005, 17:30

Got the job done this morning. Thanks for all info etc. O/S inner pad seemed well fused to calliper. N/S went like a dream. Thanks again.

dnsey · Post by **dnsey** » 12 Nov 2005, 20:37

Just a safety note for anyone else doing this job.
Yes, the discs often require some 'persuasion', but they're cast irn, and can shatter into sharp fragments if hit hard. Wear goggles and heavy gloves, and preferably some sort of face protection when bashing!