Hello, I have a xantia 19.td lx and 3 times in the last week and once in the last few months i have been experienceing problems similar to this:
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... s,electric
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When I try to start dash lights come on as normal until I try to turn the engine over then everything goes dead.
Turn switch away from the start position and nothing - no electrics anywhere - no side lights, no dash lights, nothing.
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Sometimes when I turn the key electrics will die slowly and there is a clicking whirring.
I've found if I kinda jiggle the engine bay fuse box about and knock the fuses then it will start after doing this a few times.
At other times the car will start no problems.
My car has a keypad / immobiliser and usually when this happens the alarm is going off, but I removed fuse 17 which stops this. (and i have tried all kinds of combinations to start it with fuse in/out. Usually at this point the holding alarm off button and turning the key doesn't work. I don't have a plip thing.
Any thoughts. is this just a bad connection? I've checked the battery connections. Possibly some connection from the fuse box? how can the battery be bad if it starts strongly at other times?
There is no water in the car (under passenger seat etc)
Should I stick it into an auto electricians?
Maybe related but I can't lock it from the outside the key goes in the lock but does not turn. any lock.
Got to go thanks for reading.
Xantia intermittant starting problem
Moderator: RichardW
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Your symptoms can be caused by a faulty battery. The battery has 6 cells, and these are manufactured as separate pieces, when the battery is assembled the lead terminals of each cell are welded to those of the adjoining cells. If one of those wlds fail, the lead can remain in physical contact, but without a reliable electrical connection.
The intermittant connection which does exist will often fail with the current required for starting, regardless of the cells being fully charged and in good condition.
The best test would be to have a 12V test lamp or a voltmeter and measure the voltage across the battery terminals while the fault is happening.
When you cleaned the battery terminals, did you clean the inside of the terminals on the end of the cable (until clean metal is visible), and are they a tight fit on the battery?
The intermittant connection which does exist will often fail with the current required for starting, regardless of the cells being fully charged and in good condition.
The best test would be to have a 12V test lamp or a voltmeter and measure the voltage across the battery terminals while the fault is happening.
When you cleaned the battery terminals, did you clean the inside of the terminals on the end of the cable (until clean metal is visible), and are they a tight fit on the battery?
sounds like a bad conection in the wireing,first thing to check is the earth lead where it ataches to the gear box,if you have a decent set of jump leads conect to a slave battery with live lead to the + and neg to a good clean metal point on the engine,if it then starts it must be down to a bad earth
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
I would say it is your battery at faulty, but I would recommend that you remove both your battery terminals, clean them and then replace them, put some petrolium jelly on the contacts first. Make sure your positive is very tight as this causes a flat battery similar to your situation. I have seen this a lot of times and this has sorted the problem out. Also, if you put a multi meter positive to the + and the negative to any bare metal on the car, you should get a reading of 13.5 or higher when the engine is running. If its lower than this, I would say your alternator may be at fault.
Paul
Paul