<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by patneenan</i>
Just unscrewed the pressurerelief screw on acc sphere and GUESS WHAT?
NO BALL BEARING.
I.ve never unscrewed the screw more than half a turn, so some p-at must have done it before!!!
Any idea of the size of it?? Please??
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I'm assuming that you undid it carefully so there was no chance of some oil pressure pushing the ball out and loosing it on the ground ?
Also, how did you check for the absense of the ball ? (Since you can't look down the hole while the regulator is mounted in the car...) you would either need a mirror and a light, or poke a small screwdriver in the hole to tell if it is there or not...
According to a quote by Jeremy in this thread:
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... C_ID=14402
The ball under the bleed screw should be 7mm diameter. Is that correct Jeremy ?
Regards,
Simon
Short Lived Joy Now Happy! Now fuming!!!!!UPDATE!
Moderator: RichardW
I confirm BX one is 7mm - no reason to suspect that yours is any different but if you're going to a bearing supplier one either side won't cost anything. Non-return one is 6mm.
I wonder how it came out? During pump fitting? or was it ever there in which case you'd like your old pump and money back as you've relied on this guy's skill in diagnosis and he's got it wrong.
Jeremy
I wonder how it came out? During pump fitting? or was it ever there in which case you'd like your old pump and money back as you've relied on this guy's skill in diagnosis and he's got it wrong.
Jeremy
I agree with you Citronut - 2 identically defective pumps is extremely unlikely, especially as you purchased the new one from GSF - so it can't be your old one nicely painted.
I purchased a BX one many years ago and the thing was full of LHM - so had been tested after rebuilding - and I expect yours was the same.
So -what's happening?
Can I asume the steering is normal?
The fault would seem to lie before the safety valve - any one disagree? - This means we can forget about the 'Activa' bits for this thread.
The components involved are: Reservoir and feed pipe (both common to steering which is OK)
Pump - Partly common to steering - ie 6 cylinders - 2 for suspension and brakes.
Drive pulley, belts etc.
Regulator
Pipework.
Does anyone know if this car has a plain drive pulley or is is one of the rubber composite types? - if so is the drive part 'outside' the rubber bit?
Jeremy
I purchased a BX one many years ago and the thing was full of LHM - so had been tested after rebuilding - and I expect yours was the same.
So -what's happening?
Can I asume the steering is normal?
The fault would seem to lie before the safety valve - any one disagree? - This means we can forget about the 'Activa' bits for this thread.
The components involved are: Reservoir and feed pipe (both common to steering which is OK)
Pump - Partly common to steering - ie 6 cylinders - 2 for suspension and brakes.
Drive pulley, belts etc.
Regulator
Pipework.
Does anyone know if this car has a plain drive pulley or is is one of the rubber composite types? - if so is the drive part 'outside' the rubber bit?
Jeremy
Well if its the regulator about the only thing it can be is the non-return valve which is actually repairable. By and large the only regulator problem we get on here is the frequent ticking.
The reason I was asking about the pulley is to find out if its possible for the grooved part to slip should the rubber break.
Jeremy
The reason I was asking about the pulley is to find out if its possible for the grooved part to slip should the rubber break.
Jeremy
I'd imagine the pulley outer would slip if the rubber brakes. But you'd see the belt not working right and you'd probably tell by the charge light as the alternator is also run by the belt.
How about slacking off the pipe unions to see how far along the system there is pressure? The pump must be outputting due to the regualtor ball flying out!
How about slacking off the pipe unions to see how far along the system there is pressure? The pump must be outputting due to the regualtor ball flying out!
Let me explain everything in detail.
Oump changed as old one would not let car rise, STOP LIGHTon all the time.
If parked on a 1 ft high kerb 2 wheels on same side ,it would go up and down smartly, but once back on the flat, STOP LIGHT came back on again unless revved to 2000 rpm and v.v. slowly (5 mins ) it would go up.
When new pump was fitted it took 40 secs for it to go up and STOP LIGHT to go out.
Even after stopping for a min. or so it would take 30 secs for light to out again. Once up ride was lovely, steering fine, brakes fine, it was just that after a day or so it took longer ang longer to go up, and eventually would not go up at all STOP LIGHT remained on car v.low. Even revving to 2000 didn't help. Car worse than before.
Then the next morning parking it on the high kerb again, allowed it to rise.
I then put it on the flat the STOP LIGHT came on again but susp. stayed at same height.
I cautiously drove it locally with STOP LIGHT on steering fine brakes fine no loss of either.
Next day it went up in morning O.K. after putting it up on the high kerb and the light stayed off so i drove it to school susp. perfect doing Activa shimmy at lights (like good old days).
Stopped it , left it 10 mins, light remained on susp remained in correct position but now more bouncy and no correcting itself at lights as it normally would(Activa shimmy).
This morning more of same ,on school run out susp up , and felt good.
After stopping at school for 10 mins light would not go out.
This is the pattern of things happening.
Thinks checked or changed.
1 Rear spheres regassed 3 months ago
2 Both height correctors cleaned and greased by mechanic, a Cit specialist I may add
3 Hose from pump to lhm tank changed at end to a new one ,well tightened up no splits new jubilee clips put on in case.
4 Acc sphere does not tick at least I can't hear it a nd mechanic assured me it was O.K.
5 Drive belt tight , not slipping nor squealing.
6 Recon h.p. pump from GSF put on last Thursday but have been told by my mechanic that it's duff. He said he would never fit a recon pump as he fitted them in past and had loads of trouble , so he will not supply them ,only genuine Citroen ones
So my next course of action is to order a new CITROEN h.p. pump for £385 + vat
Thanks for all your input guys THIS IS NOT GOING TO BEAT ME!!!
Oump changed as old one would not let car rise, STOP LIGHTon all the time.
If parked on a 1 ft high kerb 2 wheels on same side ,it would go up and down smartly, but once back on the flat, STOP LIGHT came back on again unless revved to 2000 rpm and v.v. slowly (5 mins ) it would go up.
When new pump was fitted it took 40 secs for it to go up and STOP LIGHT to go out.
Even after stopping for a min. or so it would take 30 secs for light to out again. Once up ride was lovely, steering fine, brakes fine, it was just that after a day or so it took longer ang longer to go up, and eventually would not go up at all STOP LIGHT remained on car v.low. Even revving to 2000 didn't help. Car worse than before.
Then the next morning parking it on the high kerb again, allowed it to rise.
I then put it on the flat the STOP LIGHT came on again but susp. stayed at same height.
I cautiously drove it locally with STOP LIGHT on steering fine brakes fine no loss of either.
Next day it went up in morning O.K. after putting it up on the high kerb and the light stayed off so i drove it to school susp. perfect doing Activa shimmy at lights (like good old days).
Stopped it , left it 10 mins, light remained on susp remained in correct position but now more bouncy and no correcting itself at lights as it normally would(Activa shimmy).
This morning more of same ,on school run out susp up , and felt good.
After stopping at school for 10 mins light would not go out.
This is the pattern of things happening.
Thinks checked or changed.
1 Rear spheres regassed 3 months ago
2 Both height correctors cleaned and greased by mechanic, a Cit specialist I may add
3 Hose from pump to lhm tank changed at end to a new one ,well tightened up no splits new jubilee clips put on in case.
4 Acc sphere does not tick at least I can't hear it a nd mechanic assured me it was O.K.
5 Drive belt tight , not slipping nor squealing.
6 Recon h.p. pump from GSF put on last Thursday but have been told by my mechanic that it's duff. He said he would never fit a recon pump as he fitted them in past and had loads of trouble , so he will not supply them ,only genuine Citroen ones
So my next course of action is to order a new CITROEN h.p. pump for £385 + vat
Thanks for all your input guys THIS IS NOT GOING TO BEAT ME!!!
Just a couple of points - as otherwise I'm completely baffled.
1. New LHM has the effect of making everything lovely for a little while until it gets mashed up and all the old faults re-appear. The cynical side of me says its just long enough for a cheque to clear but I'm sure thats not rellay the reason.
2. I'm curious about the difference with the car being parked on the high kerb and start wondering about the extra Activa struts which I know can leak but blow the return tubes off when they do. 2 wheels raised might put the piston in a different and less worn part of a cylinder? BUT this part of the circuit is beyond the safety valve and will only get pressurised LHM once that valve has opened and turned off the light.
3. The safety valve (if its the same as others and it proably is) is actually rather a nice device and the actual operating piston operates the light switch - no separate pressure switch. It opens when there is sufficient pressure for the front brakes and allows LHM to go to the front and rear suspension.
4. This reminds me of the fun and games I had with my BX which was slow to rise and would put on the warning light when driven for up to 5 miles. I tried everything including a doseur (brake valve) but it all made no difference - and I eventually found I had a wrongly assembled flow divider with the system pressure limiting ball valve the wrong side of its support plunger - so the thing was trying to seal on the plunger rather than the ball valve! New LHM (even a litre) would make it work properly for several days - just confusing the issue more.
jeremy
1. New LHM has the effect of making everything lovely for a little while until it gets mashed up and all the old faults re-appear. The cynical side of me says its just long enough for a cheque to clear but I'm sure thats not rellay the reason.
2. I'm curious about the difference with the car being parked on the high kerb and start wondering about the extra Activa struts which I know can leak but blow the return tubes off when they do. 2 wheels raised might put the piston in a different and less worn part of a cylinder? BUT this part of the circuit is beyond the safety valve and will only get pressurised LHM once that valve has opened and turned off the light.
3. The safety valve (if its the same as others and it proably is) is actually rather a nice device and the actual operating piston operates the light switch - no separate pressure switch. It opens when there is sufficient pressure for the front brakes and allows LHM to go to the front and rear suspension.
4. This reminds me of the fun and games I had with my BX which was slow to rise and would put on the warning light when driven for up to 5 miles. I tried everything including a doseur (brake valve) but it all made no difference - and I eventually found I had a wrongly assembled flow divider with the system pressure limiting ball valve the wrong side of its support plunger - so the thing was trying to seal on the plunger rather than the ball valve! New LHM (even a litre) would make it work properly for several days - just confusing the issue more.
jeremy
you know they wont take it back if it makes no diferants to your problem,if you realy feel thats the way you want to go,then why dont you get someone to help you get a asecond hand pump just to try before you blow all that dosh,besides if you want to chuck all that dosh away you could lob it this way
regards malcolm
regards malcolm