Sphere pressure tester
Moderator: RichardW
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by vanny</i>
WOW thats so cool, i have nearly all those parts in the garage as well, off to bid me a pressure guage! gonna get one to 200 ish PSI and maybe boost my car hydraulic pressure for a laugh!
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200 psi guage ? You mean 200 bars I hope ? [:D] 200 is good if you want to be able to also measure things like the main regulator pressure while its running, (up to around 170 bars) but a 100 bar guage is better for getting accurate sphere readings as the highest pressure spheres are 75 bars and some are as low as 30. (A bit far down on the scale on a 200 bar guage to get a nice accurate reading)
Regards,
Simon
WOW thats so cool, i have nearly all those parts in the garage as well, off to bid me a pressure guage! gonna get one to 200 ish PSI and maybe boost my car hydraulic pressure for a laugh!
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200 psi guage ? You mean 200 bars I hope ? [:D] 200 is good if you want to be able to also measure things like the main regulator pressure while its running, (up to around 170 bars) but a 100 bar guage is better for getting accurate sphere readings as the highest pressure spheres are 75 bars and some are as low as 30. (A bit far down on the scale on a 200 bar guage to get a nice accurate reading)
Regards,
Simon
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bernie</i>
First prototype, just waiting for a gauge
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Excellent... That'll work perfectly... The output from the regulator you have going back to the LHM tank ... It'll go straight into the guage...
You currently have the regulator return (big sucker, nearly as big as the feed line to the pump) straight to the ground. This will need to be returned to your LHM bottle.
Peice of cake aren't they ... Hardest bit being the drive to the local 'hose' shop so they can cut/flare/join the guage to the citroen hydraulic line [:)]
seeya,
Shane L.
PS: Are you making a brake fluid tester ??? Is that why it's all painted black.... You holding out on us ... What sort of early ID's and DS's do you have [:0] [:D]...
First prototype, just waiting for a gauge
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Excellent... That'll work perfectly... The output from the regulator you have going back to the LHM tank ... It'll go straight into the guage...
You currently have the regulator return (big sucker, nearly as big as the feed line to the pump) straight to the ground. This will need to be returned to your LHM bottle.
Peice of cake aren't they ... Hardest bit being the drive to the local 'hose' shop so they can cut/flare/join the guage to the citroen hydraulic line [:)]
seeya,
Shane L.
PS: Are you making a brake fluid tester ??? Is that why it's all painted black.... You holding out on us ... What sort of early ID's and DS's do you have [:0] [:D]...
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DoubleChevron</i>
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bernie</i>
First prototype, just waiting for a gauge
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Excellent... That'll work perfectly... The output from the regulator you have going back to the LHM tank ... It'll go straight into the guage...
<font color="red"><b><i>Are you saying remove the small pipe from the tank and put gauge on the end?</i></b></font id="red">
You currently have the regulator return (big sucker, nearly as big as the feed line to the pump) straight to the ground. This will need to be returned to your LHM bottle.
<font color="red"><b><i>Also the connection on the rear of the PR (not used in picture) is the return feed back to the tank?</i></b></font id="red">
Peice of cake aren't they ... Hardest bit being the drive to the local 'hose' shop so they can cut/flare/join the guage to the citroen hydraulic line [:)]
seeya,
Shane L.
PS: Are you making a brake fluid tester ??? Is that why it's all painted black.... You holding out on us ... What sort of early ID's and DS's do you have [:0] [:D]...
<b>Pump is from a BX GTI and PR from 16v</b>
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Cheers Shane[:)]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bernie</i>
First prototype, just waiting for a gauge
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Excellent... That'll work perfectly... The output from the regulator you have going back to the LHM tank ... It'll go straight into the guage...
<font color="red"><b><i>Are you saying remove the small pipe from the tank and put gauge on the end?</i></b></font id="red">
You currently have the regulator return (big sucker, nearly as big as the feed line to the pump) straight to the ground. This will need to be returned to your LHM bottle.
<font color="red"><b><i>Also the connection on the rear of the PR (not used in picture) is the return feed back to the tank?</i></b></font id="red">
Peice of cake aren't they ... Hardest bit being the drive to the local 'hose' shop so they can cut/flare/join the guage to the citroen hydraulic line [:)]
seeya,
Shane L.
PS: Are you making a brake fluid tester ??? Is that why it's all painted black.... You holding out on us ... What sort of early ID's and DS's do you have [:0] [:D]...
<b>Pump is from a BX GTI and PR from 16v</b>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"><font face="Arial Black"></font id="Arial Black"><font color="red"></font id="red">
Cheers Shane[:)]
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The small high pressure line that you have run into the LHM bottle ... This is the high pressure output from the regulator. If you completely blank this off what will happen is the pressure created by the pump as you turn it will increase until regulator cutout (you know, like when you hear the pump on the car click out). What will then happen is the big rubber hose from the regulator that you have running to the ground ... The fluid will then flow from here back to the reseviour allowing the pump to freewheel just pumping fluid back to the LHM bottle under no pressure .... Until the pressure drops back to regualtor cut in speed.
So yes that hydraulic line is where you put the pressure guage... The big return line from the reseviour still needs to back to the LHM bottle. We will never need to pump up enough pressure to cut out the regulator, however when you open the regulator bleed screw after testing the sphere the fluid will gush out of this big return back to the tank.
seeya,
Shane L.
So yes that hydraulic line is where you put the pressure guage... The big return line from the reseviour still needs to back to the LHM bottle. We will never need to pump up enough pressure to cut out the regulator, however when you open the regulator bleed screw after testing the sphere the fluid will gush out of this big return back to the tank.
seeya,
Shane L.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by citronut</i>
the max presure in system is 2600psi so you will need a gauge that goes to 3000psi min
regards malcolm
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This is right for testing hydraulics on the car (eg: setting the crossover pressures on the DS steering), however the highest sphere pressure is about 75bars. So a pressure guage of 100bars would be best (as the calibrations will be nice, big and accurate).
The guage on my tester has duel calibrations, (bars and psi), you DEFINATLY want a guage that measures bars. All spheres have the charge pressure stamped under there filler plug. You'll need to get out a calculator and convert the pressure (in bars) stamped under the filler plug to psi if your guage measures only psi.
seeya,
Shane L.
the max presure in system is 2600psi so you will need a gauge that goes to 3000psi min
regards malcolm
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
This is right for testing hydraulics on the car (eg: setting the crossover pressures on the DS steering), however the highest sphere pressure is about 75bars. So a pressure guage of 100bars would be best (as the calibrations will be nice, big and accurate).
The guage on my tester has duel calibrations, (bars and psi), you DEFINATLY want a guage that measures bars. All spheres have the charge pressure stamped under there filler plug. You'll need to get out a calculator and convert the pressure (in bars) stamped under the filler plug to psi if your guage measures only psi.
seeya,
Shane L.