Valve clearance

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j_roc
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Valve clearance

Post by j_roc »

Afternoon all - Can annyone tell me what the correct valve clearance should be for my Xantia? (int and exh). Many thanks.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

You can not adjust the valve clearances - unless you remove the cam axle. And then only by trial & error - as it never seems to get spot on first time [8D]
Because of the construction principle - modern engine's valve rocker gear very rarely needs any attention - as there are no rocker arms with adjusters.
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Post by Stempy »

I thought all modern engines had hydraulic tappets so they never go out.
j_roc
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Post by j_roc »

Not all cars, for example - British Leyland Mini and Metro (a series). Fiat uno 1.1. Ford Sierra, Granada, Capri, Cortina and Transit (pinto engine). Ford Orion 1.3 (hcs). VW Golf (pre 1987). Hyundai Stellar. Lada Niva, Riva and Samara.
mpr1956
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Post by mpr1956 »

Hi jroc, my haynes states .15mm for inlet, and .30mm for the exhaust... adjustment means checking the clearances cold, then removing the camshaft (and all that entails), removing the bucket(?) over the valve, then measuring the thickness of the shim that is already in there, then calculating the thickness of the shim that is required to achieve the correct clearance. ( This is why, when I found that my clearances were "about right", I left well alone - My apologies to those on here that do things properly... I salute you all ( I have a 93 tdsx btw)
j_roc
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Post by j_roc »

Thanks mpr1956. There aint even a gap to get the feeler blades in! the valves have well closed up. Snap ive got a 93 sx td as well. I only bought the car for £90. It was so cheap because the owner said it needed a new head gasket - the valves could have given a false reading on a comp test (I hope so). Plus I need to get hold of a new n/s/f door as its a bodge job as its a shoddy replacement (a ill fitting green door on a blue car). But it is great fun when the turbo kicks in! Whoopee. Thanks once again.
citronut
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Post by citronut »

are you sure you are checking the gaps on rear of the cam faceing cam folower not with cam peek against bucket,why i say is because probably with no gap pistons might hit valves,also if no one has touched it and you rearly have no clearance i think valves must be almost burnt out regards malcolm
j_roc
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Post by j_roc »

Yes I am checking the gap with the lobes pointing upwards. I aint ever had a Diesel, or a Citroen before so this is still a bit new to me. Believe it or not I am a qualified mechanic!
citronut
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Post by citronut »

ok just checking, allthough citroen or and diesels aint that much differant to other engines,only differants is cit/D is fare more refind than oter makes regards malcolm
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Post by Richard Gallagher »

I've done this job a couple of times on my old C15D's.
On both vans the clearances had closed up by a significant amount, changed the shims and the engine ran smoother with an improvement in MPG.
Not an easy job to do but worthwhile if done when changing the cambelt. The biggest problem was getting hold of the right size shims, dealers rarely carry them.
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Post by Peter.N. »

When I removed the head of my BX I took it into an engineering firm and they only charged about £25:00, whether they would do it on the car or not I don't know but at least they have a full range of shims in stock.
citronut
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Post by citronut »

as you should know being a qualified mechanic,if valve clearances have closed up with out (intervention)seats or faces must have worn away drasticly regards malcolm
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Post by j_roc »

I have to change the cambelt annyhow (the one on the car is well shot), I bought the belt yesterday in GSF (swansea) so while im on the cambelt job I might as well do the v/c. I dont mind spending a bit on the car as it was so cheap, and the body is in good nick (apart from the n/s/f door). As you can guess im doing this for the love and not for profit. citronut dont go and curse me now by saying that, as the unit is running very, very smooth albut a small amount of clatter at idle.
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