Hello Pugsulike,
P405 1.9 Petrol : XU9C engine : 367k KM on the clock.
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I have a smilar problem like yours. The only things is I am losing the coolant thru my radiator relieve hole which located below the radiator cap after drving when the engine has stopped whereby the water temps goes beyond 100c without flow.The hot water practically pushes of the cap valve spring of the seat and reseats after losing some of the coolant. Currently the rad cap is rated at 280. Should it be higher a rating one.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Pugsulike</i>
Hi,
Just thought you might like to know that my car is running a lot better now. Trouble is, I don't know exacly why, altough I strongly suspect it may have been an obstinate air lock.
I tried sealing a garden hose into the expansion tank filler and running water at mains pressure through the cooling system with all the vents open, the heater hoses disconnected and the thermostat housing loosened. I then tightened each one up in turn until I got very wet with water under pressure spurting from the filler neck.
I also drilled a small hole in the thermostat (2mm) to allow pressure to equalise more easily around the system. At least, that was my theory, and, although I had no idea whether it would do any good, I thought 'what the heck, I've tried everything else'.
Anyway, the car has run for a week now (300+ miles) without any coolant loss and, more significantly, no air entering the system. (Previously I had to release air through the cooling system vents once or twice a day). Also, the temperature gauge is remaining steady whist the car is in motion whereas it used to fluctuate by 5-8 degrees.
Anyway, thank you everyone for all your help, without which I wouldn't have known about the airlock problems on the 1.9TD engine and consequently would not have persevered with trying various solutions until finally (I hope) finding a remedy.
Clive.
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Water loss, Peugeot 405
Moderator: RichardW
Hi arry b,
Yes, I was running without antifreeze for a week or so. I had flushed the engine several times and obviously the cost of refilling with antifreeze each time would have been prohibitive. However, last weekend I added it to make a 50% strenth mixture, using my coke bottle as as extension to the expansion tank to avoid more airlocks.
Appu, the problem you have seems similar to mine. When you say the temperature of the water exceeds 100c with the engine stopped, is this just supposition or does the temperature gauge show this reading? My temperature gauge never exceeded even 90c (unless idling/in traffic for a time) but I still lost water through that radiator relief hole you mentioned.
I have no idea what rating my radiator cap is. In fact, I don't even know what the rating you mention (280) represents. I simply bought one for around GBP9.00 from a Peugeot dealer, although, of course, I don't know how available spares are in Malaysia. My thoughts are that, if the temperature of your water is exceeding 100c, a new cap may reduce the water loss but it won't cure the problem.
Initially, I would suggest you do the same as I tried. Flush the system under pressure. You can use a 2 litre plastic drinks bottle. Cut a hole in the bottom of the bottle. Next wrap some tape (masking tape ideal) around the cap thread. Screw the thread into the expansion tank filler neck (it will be a firm fit but may need some trial and error for the amount of tape required) and fill the bottle through the hole in the bottom. A hose is useful for this as the higher the water level, the better the pressure.
As was suggested to me, undo a heater hose where it enters the bulkhead. You will probably have to remove the battery to access the jubilee clip. Let plenty of water flow through (3-4 bottle fulls) making sure that you reconnect the hose whilst the water is still flowing under pressure. I then released and tightened (under pressure still) the hose vents, loosened the thermostat housing bolts (joggle the thermostat as well because it will be closed and may have air trapped behind it) and also the radiator vent. Use plenty of water, airlocks can be unco-operative little buggers! This is where a hose comes in use as you will be having to refil your drinks bottle continuously to maintain the vital pressure.
Hope this will help resolve your problem, if not, I suggest you start a new topic describing your problem as there seems to be a wealth of talent out there waiting to help people like you and me.
Goog luck,
Clive.
Yes, I was running without antifreeze for a week or so. I had flushed the engine several times and obviously the cost of refilling with antifreeze each time would have been prohibitive. However, last weekend I added it to make a 50% strenth mixture, using my coke bottle as as extension to the expansion tank to avoid more airlocks.
Appu, the problem you have seems similar to mine. When you say the temperature of the water exceeds 100c with the engine stopped, is this just supposition or does the temperature gauge show this reading? My temperature gauge never exceeded even 90c (unless idling/in traffic for a time) but I still lost water through that radiator relief hole you mentioned.
I have no idea what rating my radiator cap is. In fact, I don't even know what the rating you mention (280) represents. I simply bought one for around GBP9.00 from a Peugeot dealer, although, of course, I don't know how available spares are in Malaysia. My thoughts are that, if the temperature of your water is exceeding 100c, a new cap may reduce the water loss but it won't cure the problem.
Initially, I would suggest you do the same as I tried. Flush the system under pressure. You can use a 2 litre plastic drinks bottle. Cut a hole in the bottom of the bottle. Next wrap some tape (masking tape ideal) around the cap thread. Screw the thread into the expansion tank filler neck (it will be a firm fit but may need some trial and error for the amount of tape required) and fill the bottle through the hole in the bottom. A hose is useful for this as the higher the water level, the better the pressure.
As was suggested to me, undo a heater hose where it enters the bulkhead. You will probably have to remove the battery to access the jubilee clip. Let plenty of water flow through (3-4 bottle fulls) making sure that you reconnect the hose whilst the water is still flowing under pressure. I then released and tightened (under pressure still) the hose vents, loosened the thermostat housing bolts (joggle the thermostat as well because it will be closed and may have air trapped behind it) and also the radiator vent. Use plenty of water, airlocks can be unco-operative little buggers! This is where a hose comes in use as you will be having to refil your drinks bottle continuously to maintain the vital pressure.
Hope this will help resolve your problem, if not, I suggest you start a new topic describing your problem as there seems to be a wealth of talent out there waiting to help people like you and me.
Goog luck,
Clive.
Air locks in Peugeot 405 Exec Estate
Hi
Have read all the postings and note one method missing which we used to use - that was to raise the front end of the car to a silly angle about 30 degrees to allow the air to escape naturally. we used a fork lift to do this and it did work on several specials...
my problem us I no longer have access to the fork lift... so has anyone tried angling the car to release the air in the system and if so to what angle and which point of the car was needed to be raised to achieve this - my car for all its special bits has only one bleed at the thermostat and another on the rad. I am serious considering adding a bleed valve in the upper heater hose - also considering changing hoses around so that the long hose from down behind the engine enters at the lower port and the hose to the thermostat where the bleed valve is at the top - has anyone tried this?
any other suggestions or quirky ideas how to solve the problem of the heater matrix not working after drain down would be appreciated - as I have tried all the recognised ones and failed..
Have read all the postings and note one method missing which we used to use - that was to raise the front end of the car to a silly angle about 30 degrees to allow the air to escape naturally. we used a fork lift to do this and it did work on several specials...
my problem us I no longer have access to the fork lift... so has anyone tried angling the car to release the air in the system and if so to what angle and which point of the car was needed to be raised to achieve this - my car for all its special bits has only one bleed at the thermostat and another on the rad. I am serious considering adding a bleed valve in the upper heater hose - also considering changing hoses around so that the long hose from down behind the engine enters at the lower port and the hose to the thermostat where the bleed valve is at the top - has anyone tried this?
any other suggestions or quirky ideas how to solve the problem of the heater matrix not working after drain down would be appreciated - as I have tried all the recognised ones and failed..