The front brake pipes on the BX are now quite rusty and it's time they were replaced. I've got new ones (from Citroën) and the flexis, too.
I've managed to get one of the bleed nipples undone (it's <b><i>years</i></b> since they last turned) and I reckon the other will be alright, too.
But it looks like the rigid pipes will be real swines to fit - especially the longer one. Does anyone have any tips (other than remove engine, suspension, steering rack, subframe, etc.) ?
I'll be really grateful for any advice,
Jim.
BX front brake pipes
Moderator: RichardW
Your new pipes are delivered with plastic (or rubber) end caps ?
If not - take a smoker's pipe cleaner - cut in 4 pieces - then insert each piece half way into pipe and bend. That way you do not get dirt/grit into the pipes.
Dont mind the exact bends and shape at first. Start feeding the pipe from wheelarch inwards. Then connect at the 3way union. Now work your way out from here to wheelarch bending and shaping the pipes.
Use a standard grease on the thread of the unions.
NOTE : Never insert the pipe seal into the port before fitting pipe. The LHM wetted seal MUST be fitted on end of pipe and then all goes into the port. If you break this rule you have a 90% chance the pipe end will cut into the seal and make for dripling (even spraying) problems later ...
Removing old pipes :
As you have got new piping then cut old pipe right at unions then unscrew unions using a snug fitting box spanner.
NOTE : Remove the old pipe seal from port (hairpin, tiny screwdriver etc.) as pr rule above !
BTW : Do not torque the pipe unions. Nip up until you feel resistance from the unions bottoming out on the seals.
If not - take a smoker's pipe cleaner - cut in 4 pieces - then insert each piece half way into pipe and bend. That way you do not get dirt/grit into the pipes.
Dont mind the exact bends and shape at first. Start feeding the pipe from wheelarch inwards. Then connect at the 3way union. Now work your way out from here to wheelarch bending and shaping the pipes.
Use a standard grease on the thread of the unions.
NOTE : Never insert the pipe seal into the port before fitting pipe. The LHM wetted seal MUST be fitted on end of pipe and then all goes into the port. If you break this rule you have a 90% chance the pipe end will cut into the seal and make for dripling (even spraying) problems later ...
Removing old pipes :
As you have got new piping then cut old pipe right at unions then unscrew unions using a snug fitting box spanner.
NOTE : Remove the old pipe seal from port (hairpin, tiny screwdriver etc.) as pr rule above !
BTW : Do not torque the pipe unions. Nip up until you feel resistance from the unions bottoming out on the seals.
As memory serves me I have done this so here goes....the pipes are very flexible but I suggest you wrap them well on the nose area to ensure they are OK. Draw a diagram where they were routed (easy to fotget!)and if you have fingers like ET it is not a bad job. Remember that there is a plastic sleeve that needs to be renewed and withdrawn from each end. I managed to use the originals as they were OK. Be patient when retightening as it is easy to cross thread. Use a good fitting spanner as the nut will round off very easily.
Anders - yes, the new pipes do have plastic end caps and now I know what they're for!
Anders & John - I had no idea that these pipes are quite flexible, I hadn't been brave enough to try...
I'm pretty sure that I picked up a few LHM seals from GSF a couple of years back.
Ask me on Monday or Tuesday (Monday is a Bank Holiday in England) how I've got on...
Jim.
Anders & John - I had no idea that these pipes are quite flexible, I hadn't been brave enough to try...
I'm pretty sure that I picked up a few LHM seals from GSF a couple of years back.
Ask me on Monday or Tuesday (Monday is a Bank Holiday in England) how I've got on...
Jim.