Upgrading to a TD - exhaust modification?

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Wookey
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Post by Wookey »

Right - I see what you mean about the inlet side of the turbo needing to rotate relative to the exhaust side. I see there are three tabs held on by six bolts. Do those really just loosen and allow the turbo halves to rotate relative to each other? Is there anything I should know about this process to avoid damage? E.g are there interlocking bits so that halves need moving apart a bit before rotation? If I allow them to become slightly not-aligned/axially tilted am I in danger of bending the turine shaft? How mcuh GBH is likely to be necessary to get them to shift?
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mrbump
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Post by mrbump »

All thats under the housings (impeller and turbine) is a very brittle and fragile turbine/compressor! Theres nothing else connecting them apart form the actual shaft.
You do need to be very careful, but if you have got the turbo in a vice and use a rubber mallet to get the turbine side off the centre 'cartridge' you should be ok. Dont be worried if you have to hit it quite hard to get the casing off, it will be safe enough just to get it moving. A bit of a wd40 soak overnight might help too.
The chances of actaully touching the wheels is slim if you are careful. Be more careful with the compressor side as the wheel is only made of alloy and can be bent more easily, but it will come off alot more easily than the turbine side.
You can rotate the housings to any position you want![:D]
Wookey
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Post by Wookey »

Thanx for that description. This makes it sound like both sides need to be fully removed? Is it not just sufficient to free them up then rotate them relative to each other and tighten back up? Maybe that amounts to the same thing?
<fx: goes and has another look under the tarp>. Ah yes, I see that the compressor side has a separate set of tabs, so by 'cartridge' you mean the bit in the middle with the oil feeds and bearing in it. OK. I'm happy to give that a go - although if I can get the turbo off this one that's being broken in Clacton for a small fee I might just use that instead for an easy life :-)
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Post by mrbump »

Its exactly the same thing. Its really a ten minute job. Unles you are paying the same price for the manifold and downpipe and turbo, as for manifold and turbo alone then its definately worth doing. I cant see them selling the whole lot for the same price minus the turbo, but some breakers can be funny. [}:)]
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Post by ACTIVE8 »

Wookey while I was surfing the net, I found this web site, so I thought I would post the information on your thread in case it's useful for you.
There's information about their vehicle, diagrams, and pictures of the Peugeot turbo engine etc. [:)][:D]
Here's the link:-
http://www.ourwanderer.org/home.htm#Page
Did you manage to sort your problem out ? [:)]
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Post by Wookey »

Thanx for that link - interesting site. Judging form the pics the inside of a boxer engine bay doesn't look much like that of an Expert, sadly.
Current situation is that I decided I would get the right manifolds and pipes for this vehicle to make life simpler. When I got the manifolds I couldn't separate them from the turbo so I bought that too. So now I have a spare 306 (etc.) turbo.
The manifolds have a bracket which mounts on the rear engine bracket and I thought 'bet mine doesn't have those extra bolt holes' so I took that form the donor vehicle (806) too. Clever, I thought, until I discovered that the intermediate bearing is bigger on the 806 - sigh. So stayed with the old bracket. I can bodge up a bit of bracketry myself, or just decide that it's not _really_ needed.
Made a cover-plate for the EGR valve no problem, but when I assembled it all today I found that the air intake pipe fouls the corner of the gearbox, the speedo connector and the bracket for the gearbox cables. Bollocks! Obviously they don't use this flavour of gearbox with this engine normaly. Fixed the gearbox interference by angle-grinding the corner off - it seems to be entirely superflous metal. The speedo connector I had to solder some wires on and fill with silcone so as to move the connector further up the wire. I hope I won't live to regret that when it goes all dodgy in 5 years time.
The gearshift bracket is hardest. I don't know what they use on the 806 (there was no gearbox in the donor vehicle by the time I got to it). I reckon the shift will work without the bracket but a lot of movement wil be transferred to the stick. And I'm sure I can build some kind of replacement bracket to reroute the cables slightly.
ebod - how do the cables to the gearbox look on your synergie?
The bracket has a strange swing-arm with a big weight on it for one axis of the gearbox. Anyone know what the purpose of this is? Is it to make the gearbox 'feel' nicer, or is it technicaly important?
So that just leaves the exhaust. Today I realised that the turbo exhaust is much fatter than the old one. I got the downpipe from the scrapper one but couldn't get the rest as it won't come out in one piece and I couldn't separate the two parts in the time I had at the scrapyard :-( I'll see if they still have it and maybe go back (it's a long way). Or maybe just cough up for a new one.
The scrapper one had the top intercoller pipes, but not the bottom ones, so I'm getting them (and the right intercooler) sent from the specialist scrappy in wolverhampton. Then I think I have everything I need except I still haven'tfound where the turbo pump sensor connection attaches to the intercooler pipes. I'd expect it to be the big fat one that goes right past, but apparently not as this has no junction on it.
So, still a few queries, not helped by the russian catalog site going duff.
Anyway - I've put the engine back in today and hope to start it up tommor and check things basically work. Then I can start joining up the pipes I have and seeing what is still missing....
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Post by Wookey »

Oh yes - one thing re exhausts. If I were to bodge the current NA (thin) exhaust into the vehicle for now would that be a bad idea (e.g give the turbo a hard time)? It's just that I may need this vehicle working at least vaguely in order to go and get some more bits, like the right exhaust pipe...
Simlarly is it fatal to run a turbo with no back pressure (i.e. intercooler and pipes missing). Can I do stationary testing on the engine with the turbo just acting as a lawn blower?
Also how paranoid should I be about dirt getting into the turbo air intake? and oil feed? The former has propably got quite a lot of aluminium dust in it from grinding the corner off the gearbox and the latter has got gasket dust and maybe some steel filings qfrom sanding the old gasket off the oil feed pipe bracket. In both cases the insides of the pipes are oily so tend to grab any foreign particles that come near. Presumably I should worry about the oil feed pipe and clean it out thoroughly with, erm, something (I did as much as I could but couldn't get all the way down it). I've cleaned the mouth and vanes of the turbo intake (with cotton buds). Presumably any remaining bits will get blasted out of the end the first time it spins up?
Yes, I know I should have bunged the holes up before doing both these jobs...
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Post by mrbump »

Hi Wookey,
The obvious answer is that you should NEVER let anything get into the turbo, especially metal pieces! Maybe you can blow them back out by squirting high pressure air into the comrpessor outlet?
Its no problem at all to run the turbo unconnected. I would suggest doing this anyway if you think there might still be bits of metal in it the first time you start it up. At least then they wont damage the engine as well...
The n/a exhaust will be ok, but you might be losing some max power, nothing severe I wouldnt have thought.
Cheers
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mrbump
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Post by mrbump »

you could spray some choke and carb cleaner into the compressor of the turbo with it disconnected fromj the engine to clean out all the oil as well. if you accidentally light the ensuing geyser of vapour getting spat out of the turbo it would make for a good mpeg?[:D]
Wookey
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Post by Wookey »

Well, enormously helped along by the denizens of this board I drove the van today for the first time since 25th Dec :-) It's got me all the way to work - seems very smooth, with rather more welly than before. Nothing bad happenned on the way here so hopefully I'll get back OK too.
I wonder what I forgot to do back up properly in several hundred bolts?....
So thanx all. I think I'd have been forced to give up without you, or at least it would have taken _even longer_. I'll work out how much it's cost me next and start trying to get rid of some of the leftovers I've got (it's quite a big pile).
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