BX Front Subframe broken!

adamskibx · Post by **adamskibx** » 12 Jan 2005, 23:29

After having hit a patch of ice or mud over christmas by BX skidded outwards on a bend only to hit a 25 cm high solid granit wall at 30 MPH. The wheel was wrecked so I changed it but having since inspected the car properly I notice that the front subframe is rippled just behind the box section where the lower arm joins on. Also, the little square section that holds the bearing for the anti roll bar has split away from where it should join and there is a 3 mm gap. I know this could mean a new subframe but i was wondering if anyone has any experience of jigging subframes back into shape. Obviously I would have to replace the bearing holder but that looks replaceable anyway. The only problem with handling is that it drift gently to the left but is hardly noticable. Hope someone can advise me, Cheers.Adam

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 13 Jan 2005, 00:13

I have changed a subframe before on a BX, its not nearly as bad as it first looks, given the importance of steering geometry and overall symmetry of the front end I would not hesitate to replace it, read carefully through the job in the book of fiction and find one would be my recommendation, AFAIK there are only two types 1.4s and the others.
Stewart

adamskibx · Post by **adamskibx** » 13 Jan 2005, 01:04

Thanks Oily Spanner. I shall try and track a subframe down i think I might actually know of one but its only a possibility that its a 1.4 type if they are the only cars with a different type. I should imagine that I have to take the engine out, steering to bits etc ect to do it but i suppose it could be done ion a weekend. I think ill try this as i really cant bear the thought of getting rid of a Citroen. Its nice to see them live on.

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 13 Jan 2005, 01:28

No its all done from underneath, everything stays in place hanging there, mine took an afternoon.
Stewart

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 Jan 2005, 02:07

The type of subframe depends of model/year.
The early BX14 model with the old Visa engine had a different subframe from all the other models. This is the engine that looks pretty much like it's lying down on it's side in the engine bay - and does not have a sidemounted gearbox.
The change occurs around the '88 BX14 models.
Later BX14 models with the AX type engine has the same type subframe as the larger engine models. This model has the more common engine/gearbox layout.
We had a discussion here : http://citroenz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1245

ActivaV6uk · Post by **ActivaV6uk** » 13 Jan 2005, 21:05

its 6 bolts to unmount the subframe plus 2 for the stearing rack 6 for the control arms and 1 engine mount. Ive taken a BX subframe off in under 20 minutes from the time the car is on axel stands without using anything other than manual tools.
When re-fitting use a jack to hold the subframe in position while you bolt it back into place. After the fames in, bolt the stearing rack in then the control arms, you idealy need 2 people when re fitting as its usefull to have some one stabilise it on the jack.
Andy

adamskibx · Post by **adamskibx** » 14 Jan 2005, 01:51

Oh thats good news i think i blew it out of proportion a bit it doesnt sound too difficult from what you say. I shall track one down asap and do it. Cheers.

Post by **RichardW** » 14 Jan 2005, 12:57

If I was changing a BX subframe, I'd drop it complete with the wishbones, and then take the wishbones off when it was out and change the bushes - getting the bolts out with the frame in situ can be 'interesting'..... It's probably worth changing the octopus whilst the subframe is out too, as AFAIK it runs along the top of it.

pmhpmh · Post by **pmhpmh** » 14 Jan 2005, 13:15

"Getting the bolts out in situ can be interesting......"
Having done one side recently of my BX, relatively quickly, I had the benefit of a 100cm long slide hammer made up from the half shaft of a Toyota Amazon. Without this I think I would have given up, altho it did make the job easy as it it moved the impact point to infront of the car.
PS The most time consuming bit was drilling a 16mm hole in the flange of the half shaft. It appears to be case hardened. Drill 80% and then file by hand!