BX Suspension Help

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A_Damn_Fool
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BX Suspension Help

Post by A_Damn_Fool » 14 Jan 2005, 03:54

Cheers dan.2cv
A quick question on the spheres. to replace them its just a case of removing them and fitting the new ones? and is it worth replacing the LHM and giving the filter a clean at the same time as the LHM seems very dark.
Also are the spheres similar to those that the BL Princess and Ambassadors used in their suspensions a sealed unit that took the strain? (have replaced a couple of them in my time)
Jon

dan.2cv
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BX Suspension Help

Post by dan.2cv » 14 Jan 2005, 04:09

The Citroën spheres are easier to replace than the BL ones. They work on a similar principle, but where the BL ones are sealed, the Citroën ones fill up with fluid and pressurise, and can be depressurised as well. The Citroën ones screw on much like an oil filter, but you'll need something a bit heftier than a filter removal tool to get them off. Be sure to remove the sealing washer too and fit the new one along with the new sphere. To depressurise the system, set the suspension to 'low' with the engine running, wait for it to settle, then switch off and loosen the presure screw on the front of the accumulator (the bit with a sphere screwed to it under the engine) with a 12mm spanner about 3/4 turn. The 'simply' unscrew and replace the spheres one at a time and prepare for losing some fluid. Replacing the fluid isn't that hard either. Clean the filters you have as the new ones aren't cheap from main dealer.
ps, sorry Xantia procedure for depressurising: no need to have BX engine running.

A_Damn_Fool
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BX Suspension Help

Post by A_Damn_Fool » 14 Jan 2005, 04:22

Again cheers dan,
I think I'll have a go at the spheres my self. Sounds straight forward, I always like the simply remove statements......
Edwards quoted £65 for both of the front spheres so it'll probably cost me £80-£100 after buying the new spheres, LHM, bits to make up a tool, day of work and whatever I break along the way.
now all I have to do is work out whats wrong with the brakes
cheers
jon

bxbodger
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BX Suspension Help

Post by bxbodger » 14 Jan 2005, 04:22

Evenin' damnfool!! (wish I could type with a Mr T voice...)
The spheres just screw on and off.Ignore the haynes advice to depressurise the system before starting. With the suspension on high, loosen them a quarter turn or so, no more, <b>then</b> depressurise and spin them off the rest of the way by hand. You will need some sort of tool to initially loosen them, I use an 18" chain wrench, and everyone has their pet way-type 'sphere removal tool' into the search and you'll find loads of different ways.
When you fit the new ones, tighten by hand <b>only</b>, about as tight as an oil filter.
Its definately worth doing the LHM-bleed the brakes as well to do a proper job, and mind you don't cut yourself on the rim of the reservoir- its sharp and it hurts!!!![:(!] Haynes has a good diagram.
The Citroen spheres are different to BL hydragas in that you replace the sphere only, rather than the whole displacer unit ( BL speak ), although in practice the BL displacers were a lot more reliable and rarely go flat-some are over 30 years old now, and still fully gassed, in much better shape than the cars they are attached to!!

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AndersDK
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BX Suspension Help

Post by AndersDK » 14 Jan 2005, 07:20

About your observations on the brakes :
Any chance a previous owner or specialists garage swapped the piping on the brake doseur (master/pedal) valve ?
That would explain the weird behaviour.
This is the best pic I can find in a hurry. AV = front circuit, AR = rear. AV piping is closest to the pedal, whis is on the LHS rubber knob on the pic.
Image

alan s
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BX Suspension Help

Post by alan s » 14 Jan 2005, 09:27

You didn't pinch that Pic off Haynsie by any chance Anders or is it that I'm "downunder" that it's downside up??[:D][:D][:D]
Alan S [;)][}:)]

A_Damn_Fool
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BX Suspension Help

Post by A_Damn_Fool » 14 Jan 2005, 16:08

Cheers Anders,
The previous owner was a 'Profesional type' and highly unlikely he did anything to the vehicle whithout it going into a garage. after my quick inspection all work been done looks to a fairly high standard so am also assuming its not been near a citroen garage for quite a while. I will check the brake compensator(?) this afternoon if I get a chance. but reading other threads I'm starting to think about collapsed hoses!
Thanks bxbodger for the info, don't get me started on the BL's they were my first cars from the early 80's till I got the DTR turbo in 95, unfortunaltely I ended up with a Xanthia as company car and was very dissapointed bunny in the new millenium :( ( I always enjoyed watching my passengers turning green after a long trip and the rolling suspension of the Princess, I think i'm just a sadist at heart :) )
cheers
damn fool

A_Damn_Fool
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BX Suspension Help

Post by A_Damn_Fool » 14 Jan 2005, 19:01

OK ignore my there's nothing wrong with the rear calipers just gone to change the pads and they're seized well and truly. It just looked like they were working. oh well that'll teach me not to do a proper inspection........[:I][:(][:o)]

bxbodger
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BX Suspension Help

Post by bxbodger » 14 Jan 2005, 20:12

Theres a dead easy way to check if the back brakes work or not-wait until the back end has sunk, then put you foot on the brake and start the engine: if the back stays down and then jumps up when you take your foot off they work, if it just goes up as normal even though your foot is on the brake, then one or both doesn't work!

A_Damn_Fool
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BX Suspension Help

Post by A_Damn_Fool » 14 Jan 2005, 21:28

Just had two and a half fun hours of hammering the pad out of the rear calipers. It was the pads that had siezed/rusted into place a quick inspection of the calipers shows the the caliper pad faces are pitted/rusted will this mean that they should be replaced (the calipers that is, the pads are already on my list). also the bleed nipples are badly rusted I'm going to require a round wrench to remove them anyone any sugestions as to the best way to replace them if I don't need new calipers?
bxbodger the back end jumps up when u take your foot of the brake and stays down while its depressed. That's a good sign? Isn't it?

ACTIVE8
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BX Suspension Help

Post by ACTIVE8 » 14 Jan 2005, 21:50

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by alans</i>

You didn't pinch that Pic off Haynsie by any chance Anders or is it that I'm "downunder" that it's downside up??[:D][:D][:D]
Alan S [;)][}:)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yeah, that must be the reason, as it's the right way up here, in the "upover" part of the world. [:D]

bxbodger
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Post by bxbodger » 14 Jan 2005, 21:58

Hello fool, its a good sign, it shows they work!!
I would get it MOT'd before doing any more fiddling with the callipers, as the nipples are rubbish and seize at the drop of a hat. They are only 8mm and made of cheese, and round very easily[:(!], use lots of plus gas or paraffin as they are prone to rounding or snapping.

A_Damn_Fool
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BX Suspension Help

Post by A_Damn_Fool » 14 Jan 2005, 22:15

Hi bxbodger,
don't have to wait to round them they are so corroded that there are no flats left on them. That's why I need a round spanner [:(]. was hoping someone might know of a way to remove them without having to replace the calipers, which are badly corroded as well, aluminium and steel make a good battery!!!! when wet.

bxbodger
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BX Suspension Help

Post by bxbodger » 14 Jan 2005, 22:23

Hello Fool, you will have to soak them first in plus gas, dry them off, and then try either a <b>very</b> tight Mole Grip, or you could try a stud extractor- the type with the tightening rollers that goes over the outside.
I have had success with the Moles, but not the stud extractor- mine was not quite small enough.
Whatever, you're going to be swearing.........

A_Damn_Fool
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BX Suspension Help

Post by A_Damn_Fool » 14 Jan 2005, 22:36

Cheers bxbodger will have a go at that after I've changed the spehers and LHM as I need to bleed the brakes if I've done the LHM change correctly