BX fuel consumption
Moderator: RichardW
If you restrict the exhaust you will lose power, not gain it! You are in the Golan heights?- what altitude are you at?
If its high, and your carbs are jetted for sea level, then that will give you problems as well. At one time carbs were specced differently for different markets- petrol quality varies along with the altitude the car lives at, now its all done via the ECU settings!!
Bear in mind however, that its an old car with basically 60's/70's fuel technology and it won't ever be very economical, particularly if you are going up and down hills.........
If its high, and your carbs are jetted for sea level, then that will give you problems as well. At one time carbs were specced differently for different markets- petrol quality varies along with the altitude the car lives at, now its all done via the ECU settings!!
Bear in mind however, that its an old car with basically 60's/70's fuel technology and it won't ever be very economical, particularly if you are going up and down hills.........
Well, the only comparison I can make is that with injected BX 14 (the only other BX I ever drove). The torque seems similar. The 170 km/h value is rather theoretical and comes from registration sheet and literature. These are reasons for me to think that the fuel-saving carb decreased performance...
the 'Golan heights' is not that high, at least not where i live so the carb setup should not disturb because of that, the problem we have here is the huge difference between warm and cold weather (winter/summer),
but the fuel consumption is the same, during the following week i will try to find a good weber carb., i'll get back to you all here with the results and conclusion.
Thanks to all
Elad.
but the fuel consumption is the same, during the following week i will try to find a good weber carb., i'll get back to you all here with the results and conclusion.
Thanks to all
Elad.
Elad,
I'm sorry, I threw you with that business about the exhaust, BX Bodger is correct, the point I was trying to make was that the system has to be balanced which is what we achieved with the slasher; more power down lower as a complete package which suited the purpose we were using it for. The original system had too little backpressure and gave rough slow speed running and lack of torque when the power was applied. As I pointed out, those kinds of things are impractical for everyday driving.
I know the problem you have with temperature variations; we also get them out here. Our temperatures can also vary wildly in the one day with up to 30 degrees on occasions. Our daytime summer temps are constantly in the 30s but can get as low as 13 at night; winter down to 0 and up to late 20s is also common as a result, be careful not to tune the engine when cold as regards setting float levels in particular. I found with mine that I reconnected the hotbox from the exhaust manifold to the thermostatic flap that directs the air to the carby; removing it also creates another set of unnecessary problems, and when the float level is set, do a bit of trial and error by setting it as low as practical so that it needs a choke when cold to keep running for a couple of miles but not after that, yet will still rev out fully when the engine is hot. It's a bit of a fiddle but it's worth it.
If the float is set so that it runs without choke when cold, you'll find it will "richen up" when hot and this will both decrease the cars ability to fully rev out as well as use too much fuel. It takes about 3/4 - 1 hour to set up spot on but definitely worth the effort.
Alan S
I'm sorry, I threw you with that business about the exhaust, BX Bodger is correct, the point I was trying to make was that the system has to be balanced which is what we achieved with the slasher; more power down lower as a complete package which suited the purpose we were using it for. The original system had too little backpressure and gave rough slow speed running and lack of torque when the power was applied. As I pointed out, those kinds of things are impractical for everyday driving.
I know the problem you have with temperature variations; we also get them out here. Our temperatures can also vary wildly in the one day with up to 30 degrees on occasions. Our daytime summer temps are constantly in the 30s but can get as low as 13 at night; winter down to 0 and up to late 20s is also common as a result, be careful not to tune the engine when cold as regards setting float levels in particular. I found with mine that I reconnected the hotbox from the exhaust manifold to the thermostatic flap that directs the air to the carby; removing it also creates another set of unnecessary problems, and when the float level is set, do a bit of trial and error by setting it as low as practical so that it needs a choke when cold to keep running for a couple of miles but not after that, yet will still rev out fully when the engine is hot. It's a bit of a fiddle but it's worth it.
If the float is set so that it runs without choke when cold, you'll find it will "richen up" when hot and this will both decrease the cars ability to fully rev out as well as use too much fuel. It takes about 3/4 - 1 hour to set up spot on but definitely worth the effort.
Alan S
Elad,
Do you have a BX service manual? Even a Haynes should give you the type you need.
If you don't I'll try to dig up my Haynes on CD and go look or as analternative, try on here.
I'm on a slow dial up so I haven't checked it out lately.
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/Carburation/
Alan S
Do you have a BX service manual? Even a Haynes should give you the type you need.
If you don't I'll try to dig up my Haynes on CD and go look or as analternative, try on here.
I'm on a slow dial up so I haven't checked it out lately.
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/Carburation/
Alan S
OK, got it; try this page.
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/C ... /carb2.pdf
That should just about answer it all for you.
Alan S
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/C ... /carb2.pdf
That should just about answer it all for you.
Alan S
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by czenda</i>
My BX 16 TRS ........
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Which model/year where built your BX 16 TRS?
You remember his engine code? I would know compression ratio.
By
Frank
My BX 16 TRS ........
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Which model/year where built your BX 16 TRS?
You remember his engine code? I would know compression ratio.
By
Frank
Today i got myself a nice used weber carb.,
I hope i will be able to fix it nice - clean it and adjust it good.
I got it together with the part it's connected to so the other carb can be taken out quite easily without messing around with the adjustments incase i have to put it back.
The thing is that today i took the car on a long drive and the consumption was 7L/100/km, i have no idea what happened....[^]
Elad.
I hope i will be able to fix it nice - clean it and adjust it good.
I got it together with the part it's connected to so the other carb can be taken out quite easily without messing around with the adjustments incase i have to put it back.
The thing is that today i took the car on a long drive and the consumption was 7L/100/km, i have no idea what happened....[^]
Elad.
You have BX 1.6 1991 and you have carb in it??? It´s not normal, carbs were using till 1987. You should have the fuel injection in it. Maybe someone rebuilt this car. I had my first BX 16TRS 1984(carb) and it took about 8l/100km... Now I have BX 1.6i 1991 (injection) and it takes 7l/100km... I have orig carb (Weber 32/34drtc) in my garage but it would be difficult to send it to you... [:(]