306 TD Heater matrix and possible HG...

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jonathan_dyane
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306 TD Heater matrix and possible HG...

Post by jonathan_dyane »

Hi all, a good friend of mine runs very tidy a 306TD, and is just in the throes of being ripped of by an evil garage...
Apparently the (old, motheaten looking) radiator began to leak 3 days ago, and she had that replaced (before any significant coolant loss or overheating). £170.
Now, today the heater matrix has burst (which makes me think leaking headgasket) and the garage have quoted her £800 to replace it, but commenting 'it isn't worth it, the car would only be worth £400 fixed anyway' - [I think not! Very tidy N plate XRTD without excessive miles must be worth nearly a grand?]
Anyway, the garage claims the HG is ok, which I do find unlikely, but I'm getting my friend to check for bubbling in the radiator tomorrow (still starting fine = good sign).
I live in Durham, and my friend in Shropshire, but I am going to Liverpool at the weekend so I should be able to call in. My questions are as follows:
1) If the head gasket is knackered, I was intending on bypassing the heater from under the bonnet, to hopefully allow her to limp the 200 miles to mine for a head job. Is this going to be simple, and what bodging tools will I require...
2) If (miraculously) the h/g is unscathed, and the bursting matrix has been purely bad luck, I'd like to replace it for her. How much of a nightmare is this, and how long is it likely to take....
Many thanks,
rossd
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Post by rossd »

The matrix is a dash out job, I thikn the dealer book time is about 8 - 9 hours, so bargain on a good couple of days if you haven't done it before.
Yes its worth way more than £400, if its pretty tidy with lowish miles you could get £1500 for it!
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

800 for a matrix job [:0][:(!]
- as they rule out the HG [8)]
<font size="4">O M G</font id="size4">
Get that car home and spend a couple of weekends (max) [B)]
At rear of engine you'll find 2 hoses going to the matrix. Most likely some 1/2" - 3/4" dia.
You must find their nearest coupling points, disjoin and then fit a "shortcircuit" hose here.
Carrying a good no of hoseclamps, a couple of 1/2" rigid joiner pieces and some 1m of heat resistant soft hose would do the job within 0.5 an hour or so.
I would really like to read more about the outcoming of this project [:I]
jonathan_dyane
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Post by jonathan_dyane »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by rossd</i>

Yes its worth way more than £400, if its pretty tidy with lowish miles you could get £1500 for it!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Thought as much. It's got about 140k miles on, but is very smart.
jonathan_dyane
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Post by jonathan_dyane »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AndersDK</i>

At rear of engine you'll find 2 hoses going to the matrix. Most likely some 1/2" - 3/4" dia.
You must find their nearest coupling points, disjoin and then fit a "shortcircuit" hose here.
Carrying a good no of hoseclamps, a couple of 1/2" rigid joiner pieces and some 1m of heat resistant soft hose would do the job within 0.5 an hour or so.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I'll have a look at my XUD BX tomorrow for some idea of the setup. Will have to see if there is a join on the hoses before the bulkhead, or whether a small loop hose from the head to water pump housing would be a better bet.
I think the plan is now to call in and bypass the heater, bleed the system and check for the leaking headgasket. If it seems ok she can come and see me for the weekend and we'll do the heater matrix. If the h/g is knackered, we'll have to hope it can limp 200 miles for an extended stay at mine for the head to come off [:(]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
I would really like to read more about the outcoming of this project [:I]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I will keep you posted. I'm going to Liverpool on Friday, so I can regale you with my findings and the plan after the weekend...
rg
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Post by rg »

I bypassed the matrix on my XUD 405 using a bit of scrap copper pipe from my "plumbing projects (!!)" box and two jubilee clips. I seem to recall that there is a joint somewhere in the engine bay that allows this.
Replacing the matrix is not quite so scary providing that you have the time, patience and "personal space". I recall 1.5 days for my 405, and no horrid moments.
rg
jonathan_dyane
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Post by jonathan_dyane »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by rg</i>

I bypassed the matrix on my XUD 405 using a bit of scrap copper pipe from my "plumbing projects (!!)" box and two jubilee clips. I seem to recall that there is a joint somewhere in the engine bay that allows this.
Replacing the matrix is not quite so scary providing that you have the time, patience and "personal space". I recall 1.5 days for my 405, and no horrid moments.
rg
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Very interesting indeed. I don't suppose you can remember what diameter copper pipe was required can you?
oilyspanner
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Post by oilyspanner »

I think 19mm pipe fits, you may need to butcher the pipework there behind the intercooler if its the plastic plug in type with O ring seals, check price of replacements before cutting, why not consider getting the thing recovered to your workspace?
Stewart
jonathan_dyane
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Post by jonathan_dyane »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by oilyspanner</i>

I think 19mm pipe fits, you may need to butcher the pipework there behind the intercooler if its the plastic plug in type with O ring seals, check price of replacements before cutting,
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Advanced butchery not so good; may instead go with simple replacement pipe from head outlet to water pump housing stub.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
why not consider getting the thing recovered to your workspace?
Stewart
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Unfortunatly my 'work space' is over 200 miles away, so making the car driveable is the first priority.
Cheers,
jonathan_dyane
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Post by jonathan_dyane »

Well, the 306 is back on the road. After blowing my own headgasket, getting recovered then setting off again in my mothers Xantia 1.9D (horrendous lights and *no* acceleration) I eventually got the thing in front of me...
The heater was extremely easy to bypass, the 306 has the two rubber heater pipes which are clipped onto plastic ones where the hydraulic pump would be on a Cit. These carry the coolant around the back of the engine and through the bulkhead.
I simply added here a small metal pipe with a right angle in it, which made for a neat fix. After refilling and bleeding there were no evil bubbles, and the car was running well. Sorted!
I have offered to replace the matrix if I can get the car for a weekend, but Dee says she doesn't mind not having a heater, suspecting it gives her headcolds. I imagine she will change her mind as the weather gets colder!
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